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Thread: Gear Problem.

  1. #16
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    Default More on WIP Mill Gears.

    Hi Guys,
    Got a little further today. I used the same soft jaws that I used to machine the smaller of the dual gear, to machine the larger of the two stainless steel gears. The one with the red marker on it in the last set of photographs. For stainless steel it machined remarkedly well. which surprised me a little since I've not had too much success machining it in the past.

    I've also included photographs of the soft jaws now that they have been finished with and also the boring bar and shims that I have used to machine the bores to size. You can see the grind from the pictures of both ends of the tool. There are pictures of the intermediate shaft this gear drives. Its a hand tight push fit. I did very lightly run a tool over the surface just to take the lip off the sides of the groove for the keyway. No problem getting the plastic gear off but there was no way that the bearing was going to come off over the haridge on the edges, and I couldn't push the gear down by hand over it. The key looks as if it was put in with a hammer because the shaft was several thou bigger where the key fitted.

    One of the problems that I am going to have to face is putting a 5 mm keyway slot into these parts.

    Later !
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Simon, Guys,

    Simon, I'm going for option three with the big gear.
    Awesome! You're certainly not a one trick pony!

    Gears are looking fan bloody tactic!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #18
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    Sep 2012
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    Thumbs up More Progress on Mill Gears.

    Hi Guys,

    Well I chickened out on setting up the four jaw to machine the big Gear. Got the four jaw out and then changed my mind and put it back in the cabinet. I decided to do the small one instead. I snipped off a short length of 1/2" wide aluminium strip and wrapped it around the gear so that I didn't damage the teeth in the chuck. Measured how long the gear had to be and then parted 6 mm off the boss end of the gear. Since the motor shaft is 10 mm diameter and the bore was 8 mm, I ran a 9.5 mm drill through and then bored it out to 0.392 thou. cleaned it up and took the boss OD down to 0,7" so that it clears the bearing housing.

    The pictures show the setup in the lathe and the original bronze gear. Also how the two gears sit when the thing is re-assembled. This gear has a 4 mm wide by 5 mm key so I'm going to struggle with cutting that one as well as the others.

    Anyone have any suggestions about lubrication for these gears since they are virtually inaccessible after the machine has been put back together. I had thought about oil and making some kind of oiler but I not sure about what I should do. The original was smothered in green goo very little was on any of the gears.

    I will have a go at the big gear tomorrow...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Anyone have any suggestions about lubrication for these gears since they are virtually inaccessible after the machine has been put back together. I had thought about oil and making some kind of oiler but I not sure about what I should do. The original was smothered in green goo very little was on any of the gears.
    G’day Baron,
    I use motorcycle chain lube on the change gears of my lathe, works a treat and sticks to the gears where it’s needed.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  6. #20
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    Default

    Hi Baron,

    Looking at the second picture. Is that the top of the motor? (are they vents for the windings?)

    Stuart

  7. #21
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    I have to concur BaronJ. That is awesome work.

    Dean

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Baron,

    Looking at the second picture. Is that the top of the motor? (are they vents for the windings?)

    Stuart
    Hi Stuart,

    No ! Its the fan blades that you can see. The motor end plate has been removed so that the bearing can be seen along with the keyway.
    The motor is a permag type and the only windings are on the armature.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  9. #23
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    Thumbs up Nearly there with Mill Gears.

    Hi All,

    Well I'm on the home run. I got the large gear set up properly in the four jaw. +- 1/2 thou on the bore it was a little rough so the test gauge needle flickered about a bit. Bored it out to .940 and cleaned it up. It press fitted comfortably onto the brass bush. I would have liked it to be a little more tight. I had to warm up the gear on the other end. But I can't twist it or pull it off by hand, so it stays...

    Yes those marks on the smaller gear teeth is where I caught it with the hacksaw when sawing off the boss.
    I know, I know... I should have parted it off in the lathe.

    Tragedy *$%^& Put in your own expletives. See next thread

    Pictures below.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  10. #24
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    Angry Busted Test Gauge.

    Hi Guys,

    After setting up the large gear in the four jaw, I dropped my "Spot On" 1/2 thou test gauge !
    Well it hit the drip tray, bounced and then landed on my rotary table which was sitting on the floor, ricocheting under the bench. I've had that gauge for more than thirty years. It was given to me by a very generous old friend, now departed, when I took an interest in his work. I learnt a great deal from him even though it was years later before I could make use of the things he taught me.

    Anyway the crystal had got cracked and a tiny piece ended up inside the dial. The lever was jammed and didn't move anymore. I also found the the tension adjuster for the spring had cracked and no longer held its position.

    After I stopped kicking myself for being so clumsy, I decided to try and repair it ! It took very little to take it apart. The moving arm had jumped onto the worm and it just clicked back when I removed the cover. The plastic lever for the adjuster had cracked and lost its tension. I decided to photograph it after I had shaken the broken crystal chip out of the dial and taken it apart. I thoroughly cleaned the parts (note the fine threads around the plastic lever) and made a new tensioner for the spring from a sliver of thin phosphor bronze strip 5 thou thick, salvaged from a scrap wall switch. Luckily for me it already had a 2 mm hole in it which fitted nicely over the spring adjuster spindle. A bit of teasing over some 5 mm rod shaped it to form a spring replacing the adjusting lever. Putting it all back together I now have a working test gauge, though it does have a hole in the glass crystal.

    I'm still annoyed that dropped it. Especially since I have a new one still in its box, though its a different brand.

    Sorry I didn't take any pictures after I did the repair.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  11. #25
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    Good save there. If you can work out sizes you might be able to fit a replacement crystal (ask Stuart)

    Michael

  12. #26
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    https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...3&d=1396899664
    This is the picture I mean. Which way does the air move through the motor?( I assume the motor can be reversed. so both?)
    Just wondering about chain lube etc getting into the motor.


    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Good save there. If you can work out sizes you might be able to fit a replacement crystal (ask Stuart)
    What he said.
    Great name for a DTI, I wonder if they had a cheaper model "nearenuff"

    Stuart

  13. #27
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...3&d=1396899664
    This is the picture I mean. Which way does the air move through the motor?( I assume the motor can be reversed. so both?)
    Just wondering about chain lube etc getting into the motor.



    What he said.
    Great name for a DTI, I wonder if they had a cheaper model "nearenuff"

    Stuart
    Hi Stuart,
    That picture is effectively upside down the motor is above not below. The fan couldn't blow the dust off the blades if it tried. I have modified the motor cover with an external fan that forces air up through the motor. The other gears are in a totally enclosed space so grease couldn't get into the motor from there.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  14. #28
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Good save there. If you can work out sizes you might be able to fit a replacement crystal (ask Stuart)

    Michael
    Hi Michael,
    must confess that I'm tempted to leave well enough alone. I've had a crystal come out before and it was a pig to get it to go back into place.

    Last photograph of the gauge showing the tension lever spring that I fabricated.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  15. #29
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    Default Mill Gears Update !

    Hi all,
    Didn't get much done today. Hospital appointments n all that.
    Anyway I decided that since there was the possibility that the gears might slip on the brass bush to lock them in place. I've only had time to do one of the two gears.


    I used a 4 mm slot drill and drilled two holes opposite each other into the joint line between the brass and steel parts. I then tapped the holes 2 BA and screwed in a 1/8" x 2 BA Allen grub screw. There is no way now that the gear will rotate on the bush or come off.


    I note how the photographs show the distortion of the brass due to threading the holes.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  16. #30
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    Thumbs up Mill Gears, Ready to re-assemble...

    Hi Guys,

    This will probably be my last post on this subject. I've now got the gears slotted with the keyways and am ready to put this thing back together.

    I've decided to make an oil feed from the side of the machine into the cavity where the main gears are housed. I will drill and thread a hole to take an oil nipple in the side of the casting just below the inside of the top of the casting. On the inside I will put a pair of 1/8" bore copper tubes Siamesed together and formed into a "Y" so that lube can be applied to both sets of gears from the one nipple. I've made a 4 mm polythene key to go into the driving gear as a shear key so it will be interesting to see how that holds up.

    Once the oiler has been made this bad boy can be used in anger again, and I can get back to making my tool grinder.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

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