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  1. #31
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    Oct 2011
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    HHHaaa yes shed time for me is calling,M4 tooling is a real 'p k'.My munitoins trained bro in law showed me a trick with some of the m4 adaptors have made over the years that is to neck the taper with about 5/8 spacings along it still has enough frictional grip.some of the solid shaft 1's i got a slip in puller expander that pushes up against the F B H blows? not.
    Got lots air craft stories along with army warries technical of course John

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  3. #32
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Better to make a spindle nose collet chuck than using the mt. That way you can pass long things through the collets and you don't have to bash at the drawbar to get it out.
    Cheers
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Karana Downs QLD
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    79

    Default Spindle Nose Collets

    Hi All, I refitted the spindle late today - the rear inner brg was very tight, so getting some 'feel' was impossible - so it has been tightened with much care because it ain't gonna release to easily if I over-tighten it. Tomorrow, I will set up the DTI to see how much end float is on the spindle.

    Hi John - I suppose Phil's 'Whisperings' thread would be a good place for some engineering & technical 'war-ies'.
    (U/S - Cockpit filthy, not fit for pigs! FIX: Cockpit cleaned, now fit for pigs!)

    Hi Ewan, I was planning to cut the end off the closed end of the 4M sleeve so that it was just longer than the 3M of the chuck. This would allow long stock to fit up the spindle. Refer now to VHQ drg; (marginally better than chalk-on-the-concrete-floor)
    SpindleColletDrawbar.jpg
    It's mate would be a draw bar (made from booker rod) to tighten the 3m/4Ms into the spindle nose, then disconnect & withdraw the bar.
    To remove the chuck & sleeve, reinsert (screw) the bar into the chuck stem so that the sleeve withdrawal nut also engages the 4M sleeve and engage the spindle collar with the dogs in the back of the spindle (fitted them today).
    Undo the drawbar and it 'should' push the chuck out, then the sleeve.
    NO BRASS HAMMER NEEDED TO FIT OR REMOVE THE MORSE TAPERS.

    I was hoping someone may have had a better idea in response to my earlier post this morning.

    Regards. Daryl

  5. #34
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    Oct 2011
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    Newstead Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.ashburn View Post
    HHHaaa yes shed time for me is calling,M4 tooling is a real 'p k'.My munitoins trained bro in law showed me a trick with some of the m4 adaptors have made over the years that is to neck the taper with about 5/8 spacings along it still has enough frictional grip.some of the solid shaft 1's i got a slip in puller expander that pushes up against the F B H blows? not.
    Got lots air craft stories along with army warries technical of course John
    F B H was only a crack no way even consider 1 .got a good aircraft cockpit 1 for you.will go to Phils Whisperings to share.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Default YASS for the Forum!

    Good one everybody, Yet Another Success Story for the Forum Boys

    The spindle is back in, pre-loaded just right, gearbox cleaned out, new oil, mag strip in the bottom (that plastic mag used on the wyteboard) and let it run at full RPM for 2 Hrs.
    It's cutting nicely and is much quieter than before. How do I close this thread now?

    PS: In the absence of comment to the drawbar idea at Post 33, I'm going to start another thread with the thrust of Post 33 - fitting an ER32 chuck into the spindle, making the (hammerless) drawbar and making the index plate - Ewan will think me a heretic for sure!

    Thank you all (again!), see you in another thread. Daryl

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