Thread: Help cleaning a inside jacobs taper

Hi Poloris

The socket has to be reamed.In that you have little choice.
The only thought I can put forward is to use the JT stub as a template and grind up a reamer out of a piece of power hacksaw blade.
You would have to bear in mind that cost effective and successful may not work well in conjunction with each other.

Grahame

Yep your right Grahame it should be reamed.
So I'm waiting for Blackwoods to get back to me about a reamer.
Using a re-ground hacksaw blade to clean up the inside of the taper might work, but the possible risk was too great.

Thanks all the same Grahame

Poloris

Another avenue that may be less financially painful than Blackwoods may be Mick Moyles.

http://www.moyles.com.au/

I was surfing there looking for something else and found he carries chucking reamers.
You never know he may even have a second hand one.

The are also a couple of guys that sell small amounts second hand engineering tools like this on Ebay.

I can chase them up once you get you shock from Blackwoods.

Grahame

Yeah, Blackwoods are good at charging extreme prices.
Another option is to see if a local machine shop could ream it for you.

Go with the reamer option anything else will cost you in the long run BTW there have been other threads on this subject so if you go to the search option and type in morse taper I think you will get some valuable information regarding this subject

Rgds

Hi,

Given that the picture only tells half the story - cannot see the opposite side of the damaged interior - I would either

Just file the surplus material off with an appropriate round file (very smooth) and in conjuction with some fine grade emery cloth/wet & dry. Keep bluing either the internal diameter of the drill chuck or the shaft and try it in checking that the majority of the surface area is in contact with one another.

Via the lathe - set the compound slide at the corrtect angle. Clock up the chuck to ensure it runs parallel and square. Then using a sturdy tipped boring bar machine the majority of the surplus material off and clean up the last little bit with either fine grade emery cloth/wet & dry. Then blue it up to check the amount of contact suface area beteen the pieces.

I hope this helps,
MH

I recently watched one of the old fitters at work doing something similar to the morse taper inside a drill chuck. He was using a piece of dowel with a split in the end and some coarse steel wool rapped around it... this he put in a pistol drill and was basically polishing the interior surface with this. Not saying this will fix your problem just a bit of food for thought though.
Cheers Max

Originally Posted by maxdangerous

I recently watched one of the old fitters at work doing something similar to the morse taper inside a drill chuck. He was using a piece of dowel with a split in the end and some coarse steel wool rapped around it... this he put in a pistol drill and was basically polishing the interior surface with this. Not saying this will fix your problem just a bit of food for thought though.

Cheers Max

Hi Max,

I was going to mention that. However, if not done in the right hands, it could end up not only removing the damage bits but also removing the good parts as well. Personally, I would recommend a convential bench or pedestal drill to carry out this operation because at least you know the toolbit is enter/exiting the hole(s) squarely. I have never seen it done with wool before but with emery cloth (of different grits sizes).

Regards
David

I would be inclined to use a dremel or a die grinder, even a small stone in an electric drill would do the job. then take the chuck to a machine shop where they would be able to force the arbour into the chuck with the right machine. There really is one. It take about 10 to 15 tonnes of pressure to seat an arbour properly.

hope this helps

specialist

I emailed Mick Moyle, no luck there.
Since the offending metal was near the outside of the taper I got my trusty bearing scrappers out and patiently scrapped for two hours.
Not only did I sucessfully remove the deposits but the albrecht taper was so hard there wasn't even a scratch on it when I'd finished. Just a few shiney bits.
I don't know why I made such a fuss?
Poloris.