Thread: Show us your lathe

Originally Posted by matthew_g

Dave,
I run full cooling systems on two of my lathes and both mills, As well as my bandsaw and
power hacksaw..I use the AIS brand of water soluble oil at a mix of 17 to 1.
I have been running this mix in all machines and if anything it prevents rust on the
ways..
Well it seems to me that where ever the coolant goes there is no sighn whatsoever
of any form of corrosion.
Hope this helps.

Matthew, where do you get this? Google is no help. And I know that whatever suppliers I ask will just try to flog me their stuff.

Originally Posted by Bryan

Matthew, where do you get this? Google is no help. And I know that whatever suppliers I ask will just try to flog me their stuff.

I have just recieved the latest AIS (Australian Industrial Supplies)
South Australia has 9 outlets.

Cummins.................Cummins Bearings & Engineering
Kadina......................Vennings
Long Plains..............Sharmans
Loxton........................O.E Bradtke & Sons PTY LTD
Mt Gambier................GT Industrial Sales
Murray Bridge.............Eastside Bearing & Brake Supplies
Port Lincoln.................Eyre Gas & Welding Supplies
Whyalla Norrie..............RI Gas & Industrial Supplies
Wingfeild.......................GRH Supplies

I hope one of these places is close enough to you...

For a class clown you're pretty helpful Thanks a lot.

Originally Posted by Bryan

For a class clown you're pretty helpful Thanks a lot.

Why thankyou

Originally Posted by Bryan

For a class clown you're pretty helpful Thanks a lot.

hi Bryan
While at a clients place several months ago I noticed that their mill was using coolant when operating and asked the relevant questions eg what did they use, rust etc etc

They said that in the 7 years since they had been using Caltex Trusol EP mixing at a rate of about 10 to 1 ( just make sure it still feels oily when rubbed onto the palm of your hands) they have not had any problems...there certainly was'nt any rust on any of their machines

I've got some but am still using up the original stuff I bought when I got the mill......so I cant advise first hand but as stated above the lathes and mills in the clients tool room didnt have and rust

cost was around $100 ( i think??) per 20litre drum at Adelaide Fuel Distributors 08 8349-5868

Originally Posted by nadroj

I checked - the Harrison M300 that I posted a brake drawing of has only electric reverse.
The brake action is serviceable in both directions.
Jordan

Thanks, always good to know, I just assumed it was the usual rebadged Colchester.

This blurry AL335 followed me home yesterday, complete with QCTP, and seven holders fitted out with carbide insert tooling, a couple of packs of inserts, a coolant pump and tank, and one or two other little bits and bobs (in addition to all the standard gear, including the 4 jaw chuck still in its box!)

Not particularly exciting to anyone other than me I'm sure, being just yet another variant of a CQ6230A, but anyways...

Now, if I can just work out what the hell I require 5 extra change gears for when none of them are mentioned on the threading charts. Suppose they could be used for really really oddball threads, if I could determine the ratios available in the threading box to let me use Vernons calculator...

What is the common view on the best oils to use in these things, while I'm at it? I'd like to change all the oils in it, since I don't know whether the previous owner checked for casting sand etc in his 12 month stint with the lathe.... The threading box oil is definitely not a nice colour, and the apron not a lot better, although the headstock itself isn't too bad. H&F manual is absolutely useless - unreadable for a start, and doesn't tell you much if you do struggle through it, especially not important stuff like what oils go where...

And last thing (for the moment), has anyone tried the CDCO holders on the H&F quick change toolpost? $9 sounds much better than $55....

BTW, the photo is blurry thanks to my Canon digital camera going mad and taking technicolour photos, forcing me to use my phone. The phone doesn't like anything less than bright daylight... Really should check up with Canon about that, believe its a free repair even though the camera is about 7 years old...

Jekyll and Hyde,
Can't remember what oil I am using (iso68 maybe? I'll check tomorrow)(edit: turns out it is LOMA 32)

What are the numbers of teeth?
The "extra" gears are most likely the Z gears on this plate, for cutting imperial pitches(assuming you have metric leadscrew).

Stuart

Good score Looks like it came well equipped.
Always good to see someone get a new machine, I still remember getting my lathe and opening the crate. It's heaps of fun, but other no machinist types don't get it and think your mad. One question I always get when I buy a new machine is what are you going to make with it, do you think you will make your money back. I respond will you make your money back on that new new bike or jet ski, etc? It's a hobby just like they are so why do I have to make my money back?
.
I have seen a few around for sale lately, I wonder if people buy them and think they will make money off them or do all these jobs and loose interest. my little hercus sometimes sat for 6 months without being touched, then a job would come along for it.

I think your lathe is the same as mine (other than the bottom box) in that it's imperial. so the gears are change gears for metric/imperial selection. I keep mine in those clip type small sandwich bags, oiled up so they don't rust up.
Stuart has covered the oil, but I would recommend tail stock, cross slide and compound wipers on it. I had a bit of trouble with mine that chips would find thee way under the tail stock when it was moved and would inbeded into the ways, the tail stock wipers stopped this happening.
Also make sure the gib's are nipped up to give a slight drag or you will get movement and it will give a bad finish.
Now the question, since you are now hooked when is the mill coming and the DRO? LOL

Dave
PS
Nice saw by the way.

Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde

And last thing (for the moment), has anyone tried the CDCO holders on the H&F quick change toolpost? $9 sounds much better than $55....

Yes I have a bunch of tool holders from CDCO and they're fine. Occasionally I strike one that's ever so slightly tight, but it frees up after a couple of trips in and out of the toolpost. About the only thing I do is remove the bolt and put a drop of stud locker on it when I first use a new holder. Also I'd suggest not to over-tighten the lock nut, it really only needs to be finger tight as the lock washer will stop the adjustment nut turning.

Pete

3 of my SBL's. 1919 15"x 6', 1941 10Lx 4 1/2' and my 1974 10K x 3 1/2' which is winding some MIG wire onto a smaller spool...Bob

Realy nice colection of lathes their Bob.

Dave

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Jekyll and Hyde,
Can't remember what oil I am using (iso68 maybe? I'll check tomorrow)

What are the numbers of teeth?
The "extra" gears are most likely the Z gears on this plate, for cutting imperial pitches(assuming you have metric leadscrew).

Stuart

Mine must have imperial leadscrew, since my metric charts look like your imperial chart - except with no 'z' in them. The 24 and 48 tooth are both always in use for metric, only they swap positions.

The imperial charts have either 48, unmarked gear, z, or alternatively 24, unmarked, z. I also notice that in addition to the 2 combinations of the threading dials (S/M and I/II) on the right, there is a row marked 'Z", which I don't get - should they be put in neutral?

Picture is of an AL336 thread plate, but its the same as mine except the unmarked gear is marked 127T. Which is irrelevant I suppose, as its only an idler.



So how exactly do you work out what goes at Z? I have in the machine at the moment, set up for the common metric threads, 24, 127, 120 and 48. In the toolbox, I have 22, 26, 38, 44 and 52, none of which are ever mentioned anywhere on the lathe?

Originally Posted by Dave J

Stuart has covered the oil, but I would recommend tail stock, cross slide and compound wipers on it. I had a bit of trouble with mine that chips would find thee way under the tail stock when it was moved and would inbeded into the ways, the tail stock wipers stopped this happening.
Also make sure the gib's are nipped up to give a slight drag or you will get movement and it will give a bad finish.
Now the question, since you are now hooked when is the mill coming and the DRO? LOL

Dave
PS
Nice saw by the way.

More wipers is not a bad idea, did you just make some up, or can you buy something?

The saw is probably my best score to date, it was a gift from a friend, but with a blown motor. About $350 later, one perfectly functional coldsaw!

And re the mill...

Do you have a 120/127 gear?
Can you post a picture of your metric chart as well please

I'm not sure how I worked out where the Z goes. But on my lathe the Z gear goes on the input of the QCGB. Of course now you have me wondering lol. I don't recall cutting any imp threads so I can't really say.
Only M feed is used for thread cutting(S engages the power feed shaft and disengages the leadscrew). I/II are different gears. So if you wanted 19 threads per inch. Find 19 on the chart to the right of either MI or MII in the top or bottom of the chart(in this case MII on the top chart), then go up and get your other two gear settings(in this case C3) and your Z gear number (in this case 38), then set up the gear train with either the 48 or 24(in this case 48) and the Z gear
Make sense?
(oh great you can do 19tpi in MI C3 with a driver of 24 and a Z of 48)
Still making sense?


That's a great looking bottom on the oil pump on your mill lol

Stuart