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Thread: My new lathe

  1. #31
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    Sep 2007
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Thanks Grahame.
    I wasnt sure how much oil to put in there so i just squeeze until oil squirms out. Thanks for the update!
    I didnt realise it had to be filled every time the lathe is used. I'll keep on it. The manual said every five times or so.

    Cheers

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay Qld
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    My opinion is that a bit of extra oil is much cheaper that rebuilding/resurfacing a worn bed way or slide surface.The lathe will feel smooth in the movement of the slides and wheel movements to use when you oil it as than with those times when/if you don't .

    A roll of toilet tissue mounted near the lathe is great for wiping down the lathe after use. The oil present helps the tissue to pick up the small metal particles that get missed by the clean up brush.

    The spring ball bearing oiler buttons help keep any dirt and crap out of the galleries.

    With reference to the material extended from the chuck face. The rule of thumb was no more 3 times diameter extension from the chuck face. This is of course for other than when supported at the other end by a live or dead center.

    Also get in the habit of checking that the chuck is tight before starting up and pull it over a rotation or two so ensure that the toolpost or its tooling is not going to engage a chuck lobe.

    To do otherwise may see the toilet paper being used. Lastly never forget the safety specs when turning.

    Cheers
    Grahame

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    Just some progress on my Pitkin donut, which is a compound support mount to remove any flex in the compound. The original metal plate holding the compound to the cross slide flexes alot. This fixes the issue...

    Wanted to do more work on it but it got late and I needed sleep.

    f5NbdbMl.jpg 6IjKEIWl.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #34
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    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    Finished my new compound support.
    Rigidity is unbelievable. Very happy with my first real functional project on the lathe, for the lathe.

    I didn't take pics after i drilled the holes which bolt into the compound, its really not that exciting.
    Very happy with how it all went, learnt a lot and more confident to tackle bigger projects.

    vr9NvMkl.jpg LxLDHTil.jpg

    L0LJx3Jl.jpg A3znmzzl.jpg

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by oohsam View Post
    Just some progress on my Pitkin donut, which is a compound support mount to remove any flex in the compound. The original metal plate holding the compound to the cross slide flexes alot. This fixes the issue...

    Wanted to do more work on it but it got late and I needed sleep.

    f5NbdbMl.jpg 6IjKEIWl.jpg
    Hi Oohsam,
    That looks like a hefty chunk of metal there ! Difficult to judge the size of it.
    For a tool post that flexes it looks like a very good finish.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  7. #36
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    Sep 2012
    Location
    Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Oohsam,

    Very nicely done. Now if that were me I would be making a pair of long "T" nuts and using four hex cap screws to secure that to the cross table. Those hold down clamps don't do it the justice it deserves.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  8. #37
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    Sep 2007
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Oohsam,

    Very nicely done. Now if that were me I would be making a pair of long "T" nuts and using four hex cap screws to secure that to the cross table. Those hold down clamps don't do it the justice it deserves.
    Thanks Baron!
    yes, the T slots are next on the agenda, I just need to get some steel square bar to mill up. Its holding well now with Stainless steel screws. Very very happy with how rigid it is.

    I've been playing around with the lathe, I also got a new set of punches that I wanted to test out, so I made a new Thread Dial Indicator. My old one (3 weeks old) has most of the paint rubbed off already, and thought it would be a good op. to make one. Not really hard, but enjoyable.
    There was a bit of play in the threading gear that meshes to the feed screw before, I removed most of that (left a little for movement etc).

    anyway, here are some pics, not the best, but you get the idea.

    61Y9ErDl.jpg Sr8GOGgl.jpg

    UJ7jyPrl.jpg yPqgtlrl.jpg

  9. #38
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    Sep 2012
    Location
    Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Oohsam,

    A thread indicator is something I don't have ! At least not yet. What very few threads I've done, I've left the half-nut engaged and wound the spindle back. If I'm honest its easier to use a die for most thread / threading jobs.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  10. #39
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    Sep 2007
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    Yes, I agree, but easier is not always the most exciting! Haha

    Sent from my X9006 using Tapatalk

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Oohsam,

    A thread indicator is something I don't have ! At least not yet. What very few threads I've done, I've left the half-nut engaged and wound the spindle back. If I'm honest its easier to use a die for most thread / threading jobs.
    Up to M12, maybe. Possibly even M16. Once you get to 20mm and above the effort to drive a die is substantial, the cost of the die is substantial and even one of these small lathes can cut up to at least 50mm without any dramas.

    Once again it depends on the size of what you routinely work on. I rarely do any threads smaller than M6 and mostly M12 or bigger.

    I have a soft spot for those copies of an Emco Compact 8 machine. I used to do some machining on the Austrian original, quite a nice machine within its limitations of size & rigidity. It was one of the reasons I bought a Maximat 11 when the opportunity presented.

    PDW

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