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  1. #46
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    Hi does anyone have one of these lathes:

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Quick-Cha...item58b8b4b645

    It looks like it might just fit my requirements. Minimum spindle speed is a little fast though and 900 centres would be good.

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  3. #47
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I think the big problem with Ozmestore is you can't go and inspect the machines. At least with most other sellers you can go and have a look.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #48
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    Actually I've been down to their warehouse Ewan, how much you're likely to see is another thing, literally just a big shed with container loads of Chinese crap in it. I can't recall what I was buying from them but I arranged to pick it up in person and paid Charlie Ash. As you say, it's not a showroom, so you get to twiddle some dials on a lathe, whooppee! It's unlikely to tell you much. I buy from him reasonably consistently, and you get the quality you'd expect for the price. Whether that's good enough is up to the individual and that particular application I guess.

    Everyone is different, but personally I don't enjoy threading on a non-native leadscrew. Yes you can reverse a lathe, but it's considerably slower than disengaging the half-nuts and winding the carriage back. On many common thread pitches you don't even need to reference the thread dial if the thread is divisible by the leadscrew for imperial or into the leadscrew for metric. If I were threading imperial threads I'd definitely go for an imperial leadscrew. When looking for lathes, it's really the leadscrew only that's important in this area, and any other metric or imperial dials on it are immaterial.

    As Michael correctly alluded to, with a 127 transposing gear, it is the 127 that's the important part, and the other half can be any number, and exactly what it is will depend on the gear train preceding or following it, hence it will vary between manufacturers.

    For the OP, why is the bore diameter so critical for you? I definitely understand why having a larger bore is better, or more the point a small bore is a PIA, but it sounds like you have specific applications and jobs in mind already. Is it possible to instead work with steadies or between centres rather than through the spindle bore?

  5. #49
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    Shane

    Still trying to fit a square peg into a round hole.

  6. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Auskart View Post
    Thanks for that I will keep an eye on it and find out how much sipping will cost me!

  7. #51
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    Default DRINK

    Quote Originally Posted by oz94 View Post
    Thanks for that I will keep an eye on it and find out how much sipping will cost me!
    keep away from the booze

  8. #52
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    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    keep away from the booze
    Sipping could cost lot more than shipping around that machine!

  9. #53
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    Default Colchester student 6"

    Hi guys, am am thinking that a second hand lathe might be the way to go.

    I have not idea what you think this one is worth or what it might go for but it fulfills my criteria. 1 1/2" bore 12" X 24" cuts TPI 4-120 and metric .25-6mm spindle rpm 54-1200.

    http://www.graysonline.com/lot/0062-...ld-sa?spr=true

    what are your opinions on something like this?

  10. #54
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    A mate has a student here in Canberra. They are noisy and of course leak a bit of oil but it seems like a reasonable lathe. What does strike me about it though is the cross and compound slides are very small for the size of the lathe. No deal breaker, and it would certainly be more rigid that the Chinsey machines you are looking at. They also have an L-0 nose so you need to make sure you get chucks with it or be prepared to ship them from the USA.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  11. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by oz94 View Post
    Hi guys, am am thinking that a second hand lathe might be the way to go.

    I have not idea what you think this one is worth or what it might go for but it fulfills my criteria. 1 1/2" bore 12" X 24" cuts TPI 4-120 and metric .25-6mm spindle rpm 54-1200.

    http://www.graysonline.com/lot/0062-...ld-sa?spr=true

    what are your opinions on something like this?
    They're not a bad lathe but well over your weight budget. As Ewan said, L-0 spindle nose is a bit of a PITA but not impossible. I see a faceplate in the tray and there's a 3 jaw on the spindle. Buying 2 or 3 L-0 backplates for new chucks will cost a bit but they're available so not a real drama.

    Those machines were never *great* lathes but quite competent machines. Assuming it's in decent condition, it's going to be *far* superior to one of those AL320 things.

    PDW

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by irony View Post
    Is there something wrong with one of those 'AL320 things'?
    I have neither the time nor the interest to bother listing the things I consider 'wrong' with them. If one serves your needs, be happy with that.

    PDW

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by irony View Post
    It does suit my purpose actually, it is a good lathe - straight out of the box. I think it shows a real lack of judgement and commonsense recommending something off Noah's ark to someone who wants to use the lathe 'now'. I don't think average Joe would want to spend hours and hours and $ and $ bringing something up to scratch before they get to use it - not good logic. Not saying they're no good, but it is horses for courses: If you want something to use 'now'. buy something reasonably new from Taiwan or China, even an older Herless, they are cheap and plentiful. If you want something to restore or collect, fine get a 60 year old Hercus, Colchester, Drummond, or whatever, but gee PDW, try and help the man, suggest something logical.
    All PDW suggested was the Student might make a good choice. I would suggest if you think the new Chinese lathes are that good then you have never used a quality lathe be it 10 or 100 years old.
    Whilst many of the new machines are OK out of the box many need serious work before they are fit for purpose.
    Maybe an AL whatever might suit your average lunchbox legend that is not making rockets......

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  14. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by irony View Post
    I don't think average Joe would want to spend hours and hours and $ and $ bringing something up to scratch before they get to use it - not good logic. If you want something to restore or collect, fine get a 60 year old Hercus, Colchester, Drummond, or whatever, but gee PDW, try and help the man, suggest something logical.
    You are completely right on that account, I don't want a restoration project. But some thing that face, bore turn and cut me a few imperial threads well, without too much hassle.

    I am merely trying to establish pros cons, quality etc!

  15. #59
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    There is no doubt that good quality second hand lathes come along from time to time. You just need to do some homework, figure out what features/brands/price etc you want and then just wait. Be ready to buy when the right lathe comes along. This often means you buy something Ok (say Chinese ) to start with while you await a better lathe later on. I started with a Hafco lathe which was Ok for a learner but eventually brought a Schaublin, a CVA and a DSG lathe all for a price less than a baseline chinese lathe. There is NO comparision in quality between these lathes and a cheaper chinese lathe. So start with something and consider upgrading later when the opportunity arises.

  16. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by irony View Post
    I couldn't have said it better myself 'not making rockets'. If later on you want to make rockets
    Thats all i wanted to know.....i love fishing!
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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