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Thread: left hand wheel studs
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12th July 2010, 11:42 AM #1New Member
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left hand wheel studs
i am currently restoring a 1956 desoto ,the wheel studs are damaged on the left hand side and have been replaced by previous owners with incorrect diameter studs.the original studs are left hand 5/8 unf.is there any reason why i cannot replace them with right hand unf studs that i can make without too much effort.i know there are issues with slackening off during rotation ,but is it that important. as it will not be doing much road workcheers jb
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12th July 2010, 11:47 AM #2
Are they wheel studs, or wheel bolts? If the former, then within reason, you could change them to any thread form you choose.
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I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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12th July 2010, 11:59 AM #3
Do not change rotation of thread its that way for a reason loose wheels for starters, which if happens could destroy your pride and joy and/or someone else.
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12th July 2010, 12:10 PM #4
Most modern cars and trucks have all RH thread wheel studs and they don't back out no matter which side of the vehicle they're fitted. They rely on the seat taper to lock them. If the DeSoto has studs/bolts with flat washers, then that could be a problem - unless you chang the wheel rims to taper seat varieties.
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I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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12th July 2010, 12:32 PM #5
No wonder WW all those various coaches and trucks I worked on I snapped studs cracked nuts.
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12th July 2010, 06:36 PM #6Senior Member
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Wheel Studs
Blokes
Armmmmm, not all trucks have right hand threads. Those 3 tonners that u see zipping around the streets made by Mitsubishi and Izuzu have left hand thread studs on the left side and right hand threads on the right side. Know that for a fact as I had a Mitsi 3 tonner. They are marked as such on the end of the studs. Chrysler Valiants were the same, pos 1 & 3 wheels were left hand threads, pos 2 & 4 were right hand threads. Beats me why, wheels have never fallen off my landcrusier and they are all right hand threads.
DD
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12th July 2010, 07:20 PM #7Senior Member
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older Mazda Van has LH thread on the left wheel as well. Do you have photo of your wheel/stud hole?
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12th July 2010, 07:20 PM #8Those 3 tonners that u see zipping around the streets made by Mitsubishi and Izuzu have left hand thread studswww.lockwoodcanvas.com.au
I will never be the person who has everything, not when someone keeps inventing so much cool new stuff to buy.
From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
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13th July 2010, 10:00 AM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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leopardwood
Are they studs, screwed into the flange? or bolts pressed in from the back of the flange?
If bolts like most modern cars, I'd be trying to buy the size you want rather than make them. All the ones I've seen have had rolled threads rather than cut threads. A lot stronger. 5/8" should be easy to get I'd reckon. Try looking at some of the Yank "pickups"
As to RH or LH threads, unless you are going for a concors (how ever you want to spell that.LOL) restoration, then I reckon RH threads will be fine. Theres lots of vehicles out there with RH threads on both sides, with both taper seat and flat seat nuts. Not many lose wheels. I can't see how a RH threaded nut on the left wheel, on a multi nut fitment, could come loose if its tightened correctly. If it was a single nut on the centre line of the axle, like a wire wheel with knock off, then yes it could well be a problem.
bollie7
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13th July 2010, 10:15 AM #10
leopardwood, if you let me know the current thread form and length of your wheel bolts/studs, I can look through my catalogues for a number of suitable press-in replacement studs and let you have the part numbers and respective hole diameters.
You would need to have the holes in the hubs/flanges accurately milled and then have the studs pressed in and not belted in with a hammer or drawn in using the wheel nuts!.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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13th July 2010, 08:47 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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I had a roommate (in 1978) that had a Desoto of about that vintage too. Neat car. His had a semiautomatic transmission you started out with the clutch and shifting and once underway it shifted itself. Also had the original Hemi engine (a 350 or something close) in it and it weighed 4000+ pounds. Lots of chrome and tons of room in it (like a foot of headroom in the back seat).
I remember him going to the Chrysler dealer because he needed to do the brakes. Came home with seals, pads, bearings and perhaps even hoses for under $20 because they still had parts for them at the original prices!
Good luck with the restoration.
Pete
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14th July 2010, 02:05 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
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I would be looking at the Valiant wheel studs. I would not be too surprised if they were the same item.
CHRIS
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14th July 2010, 06:30 PM #13Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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14th July 2010, 06:41 PM #14.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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14th July 2010, 08:56 PM #15
I was just being a bit pedantic with terminology...
I'm guessing you mean a screw in stud to convert a wheel bolt into a stud and nut arrangement? You'd want to make sure the thread stayed in the hub when you removed the nut!! I think I'd prefer to keep it the way the manufacturer intended. For odd stuff like that, I always refered people to Mr Lugnut.
My parents have had a Ford Spectron from new, which is basically the Mazda Van as a people carrier, and it has left hand thread wheel bolts on the front left, and yet the rears were conventional stud and nuts, R/H thread, both sides.Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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