Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default Machining an Inside Taper

    Hi All,

    I'm looking at making some socket chisels, where part of the job is to machine the inside of the taper, it's too small for a boring bar.

    I'm thinking of making a sort of custom step drill, maybe with a bit of a spiral for chip removal, and then finishing with a reamer.

    Is there a better way? How do manufacturers bore inside small morse tapers?

    Regards
    Ray

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,557

    Default

    Ray, there was talk recently on another forum about morse taper drill bits, but few had heard of them so they clearly didn't catch on. I'm going to guess wildly say step drill with several bits and ream - rough and finish. I guess a custom step drill would be worth it for production. What size do you need? I've bored MT2 but it's a pain.

    Edit: If you make a special drill can we watch?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default

    Hi Bryan,

    I could make it whatever taper I like I guess, but if I want to make it interchangeable with Lie Neilsen socket chisels, it would have to be a custom taper, probably closer to MT1 than anything else.

    One other idea is to set up the rotary table on the mill and tilt the rotary table over at the taper angle with a small diameter cutter and use the rotary table to control the cut.

    Regards
    Ray

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    Can you post a sketch with a couple of dimensions? I have a small Kennametal boring bar that will start in a 10mm hole from memory, so a small taper is possible, especially if short.
    I have a taper turning set up on the lathe too that makes these things easier than cranking a compound slide handle.

    Michael

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wimmera
    Age
    51
    Posts
    363

    Default

    Ray if you had a cnc mill you could mill a tapered pocket with a ballnose endmill take about 5min any
    taper you like

    cheers
    Harty

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default

    Hi Michael

    I will do a proper drawing later tonight, but rough dimensions are tapering from 12mm diameter to 5mm or so diameter over about 30mm.

    Here is some idea of what I'm on about.. I've put in a #1 Morse taper for comparison.



    The quick test with the standard step drill worked fine, and the taper is close to what I need, the lack of a spiral meant that there is no way for the chips to get out.

    The part on the right hand side is the start of a new chisel from 3/4" O1 drill rod stock.

    Regards
    Ray

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by harty69 View Post
    Ray if you had a cnc mill you could mill a tapered pocket with a ballnose endmill take about 5min any
    taper you like

    cheers
    Harty
    Thanks.... I needed to know that... just a few more little pushes will be all it takes for me to get back to finishing the CNC conversion.

    Regards
    Ray

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    539

    Default

    One of my usual harebrained ideas here, but could you make up some sort of jig to grind a tapered drill bit or similar on your surface grinder?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    I think for a taper that small, the best plan is to drill out with the step drill and then clean up with a custom made cutter. If you knew someone who could heat treat and has something like some some O1 steel you'd be set.
    I'd start by turning up a cone (on a shank) and then off set it in a 4 jaw to put some relief on the side; turn 180 degrees and do the same thing. End result should be something football shaped in cross section (provided we are not talking soccer here...)
    Put it in the mill and cut two flutes, heat treat, grind and hone. Should work...

    Michael

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,659

    Default

    HI Ray,
    What about making a micro boring bar. They are ground entirely out of a piece of HSS. I used to make them all the time and of course they have all disappeared over time so I can't even get you a pic but I did read an article on how to make them properly. If you are interested I could locate the article for you.

    Phil

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    275

    Default

    C'mon Ray!
    forge em like they should be!

    AndrewOC

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default

    Hi Phil,

    I've been googling for micro boring bar, but haven't come up with anything, I could grind a cutter from hss with a long tapered shank.. it's going to have to be less than 1/4" wide at the tip..

    Do you have a picture?

    Michael,
    Thanks for the tip, I know where there is a heat treatment furnace... I might be able to find some O1 too I think..

    What's the oval shape about, is that for the cutter relief? I was thinking of just turning a couple of step drills with staggered steps, so I'd drill the small diameter with a normal twist drill, then run the first step drill. Then the second step drill with offset steps, then a tapered reamer to finish.

    Hi Jeckyl&Hide
    The idea of grinding a taper on a standard 1/2" drill is appealing too, that would give me the twist for chip removal, only problem I see is that the tool would be cutting on edges the full length of the taper, might be a bit tricky.

    As Andrew says the traditional method is forging...

    Regards
    Ray

  14. #13
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,557

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    The idea of grinding a taper on a standard 1/2" drill is appealing too, that would give me the twist for chip removal, only problem I see is that the tool would be cutting on edges the full length of the taper, might be a bit tricky.
    That's what the MT drill bits that I saw pics of did, but they had notches. Looked like a cross between a drill and a roughing reamer. Will try and find the thread. I believe the consensus was you would need a decent machine to run them.

    Edit: Here's the thread: Learn something new every day. - The Home Shop Machinist

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    703

    Default

    As my experience in machining is zilch, this idea may be completely impractical, but if so I will learn something from the more experienced contributors when they explain the reasons why.
    How would a D bit go, and if a goer, would you hog out most of the material by drilling to set depths with a series of conventional drills first, and then clean up with the D bit or would you drill the whole way with the D bit?
    I envisage turning the D bit in silver steel to the required taper and then grinding the cutting part down to within 5 or 10 thou of centre height, adding some clearance angles on the end before heating and quenching in water to harden the bit.
    I imagine that it would be best to rough out the tapered section with a series of twist drills, and it maybe an idea to have a short pilot section on the end of the D bit which was a close fit in the smallest drilled hole section, so that the D bit had support on the far end. I'm may be over complicating matters here, but what do others think?
    Finally, as this is(I think) my first posting since our Scraping School with Phil and Marco, I would just like to say hi to all of you that I met, and to express my thanks to all who helped organise the event, the catering staff and of course our host /tutors, Phil and Marco for an outstanding weekend. I really enjoyed meeting you all, and hope to catch up again before too long.
    Regards,
    Rob.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    Not my handiwork Ray but I can't imagine grinding your own micro bar would present you with a problem. Search for Micro100. They often appear on US Ebay.

    BT

    ps. just found this - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tapered-Cutt...item1c23b1d5a8

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Taper Jig
    By UKTony in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 26th October 2009, 09:34 PM
  2. Help cleaning a inside jacobs taper
    By Poloris in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 30th June 2007, 01:30 AM
  3. Taper Jig
    By noodle_snacks in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 25th March 2005, 05:45 PM
  4. need help with taper cut
    By jagian in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 4th January 2005, 12:57 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •