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Thread: Making magnetic blocks
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16th October 2013, 10:11 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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oops, thanks Phil,
Not yet they haven't. Its not drilling the holes. It's the clamping. Now remembering in this application* this is a theory. Once you pein the pins you will putting pressure on the solder, now it may start to cold flow, but thats not something that happens fast. So you may pin it, grind it, and then find it moves.......... I may also be talking out my ...
I'd only drop the damn thing on my foot
Stuart
*the application I am aware of is not soldering wire before it is swaged or clamped.
p.s. Simon they are magnetic tranfer blocks, not magnetic themselves.
p.p.s damn you guys type fastLast edited by Stustoys; 16th October 2013 at 10:14 PM. Reason: p.p.s
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16th October 2013 10:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th October 2013, 10:16 PM #17
Ok, got you now Stu.
I found with the little ones peining was just a pain in the ar5e. One of the blocks is peined, one is just loctited in place. With the big one i was even thinking of adding more solder and just soldering the pins in place. I think now i really should have drilled first...... Next time.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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16th October 2013, 10:31 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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17th October 2013, 02:42 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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OK. So they are flux capacitors No just kidding, I understand now. If I had have just watched the video it would have negated the need for me to ask! I was at work and our bandwidth can be painful at times so I didn't bother putting myself through the anguish!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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17th October 2013, 06:47 PM #20
Like it off to view video's
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18th October 2013, 12:46 AM #21
Simon, yep sure are, but should i go back or forwards in time first??
Peter, the glue on the small blocks was epoxy, but it did not work so well. I would have liked to try polyurethane, but my bottle had gone hard. Poly glue goes off with moisture so it has a pretty short shelf life once opened.
Here are the links to vids 2, 3 and 4.
2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyTDZzYuNUs
3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsdXM5n_n-k
4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKafORsmZtk
Next video will be on to the small blocks.
Cheers,
Ew
Edit, how come sometimes the video links come up with the name of the vid and sometimes just the address? I know using the insert video button adds an in forum viewer.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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18th October 2013, 08:22 AM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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I like the vids and the block Ewan; it is always nice to watch someone else work :P
What is the chance you might want make up one of the 90 degree rotation adapter plates(pitch changer)? I know Ray has been wanting to taper some spring steel for a zero set backsaw for a while now and we need a very fine pitch chuck for that. I'm happy to workshop the idea with you, maybe we can get good dual(ing) build thread going if your interested?
-J
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18th October 2013, 01:22 PM #23
Brass
Hi Ewan
Great videos . I noticed you didnt grind the brass pieces , they wont stick to the mag chuck THE 8 THOU OVER LENGTH MAY BE DUE TO THE ROUGHER BRASS
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18th October 2013, 02:26 PM #24
Aluminium soldering
Hi Ewan,
Nice blocks.
Aluminium can be soldered. I have seen it done, going back 35 to 40 years, as an apprentice.
Aluminium cables used for distributing low voltage in underground sub-divisions required the process. In cross section, the three phases were shaped like 1/3 of a pie and the neutral was a tube around the outside. Everything insulated with oil/greased paper. The connection to the round neutral was a short tube of tinned metal that was soldered around the outside of the aluminium. The special solder used was called "friction solder" I don't know what was in it.
The system was not the greatest as the soldering often dried out the oil/grease from the paper and the whole thing would short out some time after being put into service. This is not the greatest recommendation even though I doubt you will have 240V through your blocks. Mind you, could be highly exciting if you try and we definitely want to see the video on that!
Cheers
The Beryl Bloke
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18th October 2013, 02:40 PM #25
The funny thing about the 240v comment is that for a few seconds (and no more) I actually thought of using the welder to heat the blocks up. Clamp on one end, stick a big rod to the other.......and hope the rod didn't act like a fuse before the block was hot enough to melt the solder.......hell if it got hot enough I could have just fused the whole lot together......
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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