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Thread: Mahr Zentimess Oil Change
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12th March 2011, 07:06 PM #1.
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Mahr Zentimess Oil Change
No it's not the latest model Skoda. I know that a couple of forum members have similar indicators and if this helps to rescue one of those indicators down the track, then it will have been worthwhile submitting this post and wrestling with the camera and tripod.
I had eagerly been waiting for the arrival of the indicator I had bought on German Ebay. I already have a 1um Mahr Millimess indicator and I was after something a little less sensitive to use on my mill. So when I opened the package I was pretty disappointed to find that the needle didn't move. The spindle moved but not the needle.
So I partially dismantled it. The cause of the lack of movement was the dried out lubricant in the gear pivots. The needle did start to move sluggishly after repeated pumping of the spindle which suggested no mechanical damage. The screws securing the face are two different lengths.Take heed. Two small countersunk screws fasten the anodised dial face and when these are removed, I found that pushing the spindle so that the needle is in a 12 o'clock position, allows the removal of the face without the needle striking the protruding stop on the face. The gear train is sandwiched between two plates. Non of the screws on the upper plate need to be touched. On the larger rear plate, there are 3 spring loaded screws. They provide a movable mount for the large plate which is itself, spring loaded. This movement is required for the fine adjustment of the needle.
After removal of the sprung fixings and the plate tension spring from it's housing mounted pin, the gear assembly can be removed. I did this ar.. about. I used a screwdriver to lever the spring loaded plate away from the fine adjuster. This adjuster has a cross dowel that needs to be under the plate to allow the plate's removal.
I did not feel adventurous enough to dismantle this assembly. There is a fine hairspring providing tension to the needle . I could not see how I would be able to accurately reset the spring tension if I progressed further with the dismantling.
I have a book written by a fellow, Michael Yamamoto titled "Repair of Mechanical Dial Indicators and Calipers". He recommends the use of acetone or lacquer thinner as a cleaning solvent. I used acetone. I poured it into a clean sardine tin to a depth of about 6mm then sat the assembly in it making sure the needle was not immersed. Moving the rack lever in and out quickly resulted in free movement of the mechanism and the needle. Blowing it dry resulted in absolutely no movement. This was remedied with the application of a small amount of watch oil to the pivot and gear teeth. I used the fine point on my tweezers to apply the oil.
Reassembly was straightfoward. The indicator functions properly. Well worth the minor overhaul. Now I have two Mitutoyos to deal with, an altogether different species.
BT
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12th March 2011 07:06 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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12th March 2011, 07:09 PM #2.
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More photos.
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12th March 2011, 07:34 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Nice going BT
I've never used an indictor like that one. Whats the "shutter release" cable do? Lift the spindle?
Stuart
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12th March 2011, 07:48 PM #4.
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Sure does Stuart.
There's been times that I wish my other indicators had a similar feature. What's really neat about that style of Mahr is how easy they are to pull to bits. You don't need to remove the needle to remove the dial.
BT
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12th March 2011, 08:00 PM #5
Hi Bob,
Nice save of a beautiful precision instrument, what sort of oil is "watch oil"
Regards
Ray
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12th March 2011, 08:10 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks BT
Sounds like a very handy feature.
Going to have to keep my eye out for one of those.
Stuart
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12th March 2011, 08:31 PM #7.
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I imagine pretty thin stuff Ray. I did a quick search online for KOCH UHRENOL and nearly all of what I found was in German. Moebius is a Swiss manufacturer of clock and watch lubricants. Here's a link. There are numerous options.
Oil & Lubricants by Moebius
BT
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12th March 2011, 09:11 PM #8.
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Mounted Up.
It looks the part on the 13's high speed head but you nearly have to be standing behind the machine to see it. The little Compac indicator is better suited. It should be. It's much the same as the one Schaublin offered as an accessory back in the sixties.
BT
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12th March 2011, 10:52 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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BT
To answer a question you never asked. Why don't you make up something along the lines of this?
Stuart
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12th March 2011, 11:14 PM #10.
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Stuart,
This is like my failed 5th year high school Physics exam. Complete the remainder of the diagram. Is the bracket intended to extend the lower cast lug on the head, the part that the indicator spindle strikes? Is it intended to project towards to front of the mill so that the indicator is in a more accessible position. What's not shown in the photo is a scale and a pointer. The milled recess is the scale location.
Help me
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12th March 2011, 11:21 PM #11.
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Here is a photo of the scale and pointer.
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12th March 2011, 11:23 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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It was. Figured it couldn't be that easy. Extending it sideways wouldnt work as well
Time for a DRO lol
Stuart
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12th March 2011, 11:43 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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Wouldnt the dial gauge be far enough forward that you could still see the scale?
If not how about mounting the dail guage up side down?
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12th March 2011, 11:45 PM #14.
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It's something I will consider Stuart.
It maybe simple enough to devise a clamp - on plate that extends that bottom lug allowing a more convenient positioning of the indicator. These mills are designed to be operated from the side. A bit awkward but you get used to it.
I don't know about the DRO. I'm old and I've got my head up my ar... I reckon it would spoil the looks of my pretty little mill and nothing I do with it is that critical.(Quietly though..I do have an ipod and I couldn't do without it. I' not a complete Luddite, only nearly)
BT
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12th March 2011, 11:58 PM #15GOLD MEMBER
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Yes your mill is to pretty for a DRO. I dont have that problem. lol
StuartLast edited by Stustoys; 13th March 2011 at 09:58 AM. Reason: spelling
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