Thread: How To Mark Out on 1" pipework for Drilling?

I'm trying to visualise the layout but it's not clear to me (I may be missing the obvious): Are you trying to drill the 1/4" holes at 90 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the pipe and then other holes at 90 degrees to the other holes, but still across the longitudinal axis?

Some variation of the vee-block jig I made for cross-drilling would work - the pipe is clamped in the vee-block and the bush guides the drill.

How many holes are needed?

IMGP0080.jpgIMGP0083.jpg

Hi ab,

How long is the pipe?
How close are the holes to the end?

Stuart

Yes, that's right. The holes cross the longitudinal axis. It is a bench made of pipe, first one I've ever done that wasn't welded but bolted instead so's it can be dismantled.

The vee block jig is kinda like what I was doing - making blocks. Thing is you need more than one. Because when you take one off to move it you're going to lose the orientation of the pipe.

What I'm thinking now - after last night's sleep - is to put it through a block of square section and clamp it in there with a grub screw through the side. Through the side so's the protruding screw doesn't interfere with the ability to turn the block over.

Then I can have another block that is moveable and I can slide it over the pipe to find the top accurately. After marking the top at one end for the holes for the brace there - this piece being a side piece, say - I can then move it to the other end and the pipe will stay fixed in that first block with 'up' still the same 'up'.

After marking that 'up' I can turn it over on the first block - the 'clamp block' - and repeat. That block being hollow square section when I turn it over it'll be perfectly 180 degrees over. Presenting the bottom side to me.

That way I get two holes marked each side of the pipe should be perfectly inline.

To get the holes at 90 degrees to those holes I can first put bolts through them holes and sticking out the sides giving me something to put it into a horizontal orientation if I rest them on proper height things on the workbench.

So I can clamp the clamp block onto the pipe on its side, the grub screw protruding from the topside when the pipe is in this orientation.

Remove the bolts, turn the clamp block over 90 degrees and the pipe is oriented for marking out at 90 degrees to the previous holes.

How's that sound?

Put a couple of pics here. The bench part made - you can see how the legs are a little askew from inaccurate hole marking/drilling. You can't see how I've had to widen holes and such.

The blocks are my markout blocks I'll change one to a 'clamp' block I guess. Instead of a 'vee' in there to hold the pipe I've got a piece of larger diameter pipe. It is not a neat, snug fit but if the pipe is clamped down it'll sit square at the bottom and a marking dot on the top, through the hole in the top, will be accurate.

But your 'vee' with a screwed down plate on top is better, totally. For marking out and for a 'clamp' block to retain orientation of the pipe. I think I'll see if I can make up a couple. You've really got it sorted then, don't you? Can't move anywhere.

A square block with a grub screw should do the job of keeping things square.

Michael

If you have a lot of these to do, perhaps a block of steel, say 2.5" x 2.5" x 1" which can be bored out to 1" in the lathe and also cross drilled in the lathe to make a drill guide. The block could then be drilled and tapped and finally cut into 2 to make a "clampable" cross drilling jig.

If you only want to make one clamp, you can control the orientation of the cross-holes by running some 1/4" rod through the last hole drilled and then using a spirit level to get it horizontal and the jig hole vertical - that would control your 90 degree requirement.

Whereabouts in Adelaide are you located? If you want to do it in a drill press you could do it in one of mine which has plenty of clearance - in the Aberfoyle Park area.

I'm in Murray Bridge, Gavin, thanks for your offer.

I don't have a lathe.. wouldn't know how to use one if I did... love to try though, maybe one day...

Did it with what I have.

I really talk too, too much and make too much of everything.

There's only two parts to my problem I guess: First: orienting a rod or pipe and Second: finding the top accurately.

Clamp a block fixes them both.

But of course you can't unclamp the block to move up and down the pipe to locate other holes so a second, moveable block. Job done.

You can see in the pic I took one of my blocks and welded a nut around a 1/4" hole I bored in it. A screw in that makes the clamp.

The other block wanders up and down the pipe and locations are marked through that little hole. I drilled the larger, the 1/4" hole, for locating workpieces that were already drilled to some extent, half finished. I can put a bolt down through there to their drilled holes and orient them.

I mark, not drill, so's I can't wear out the holes. So I might as well dispense with the small hole in its present location and put a notch on the edge and mark down through that.

Be better able to see what I'm doing.


Yep, I'm a gabby old man. Michael G provided me with the total answer, really... in one short line....


IMG_0922 [800x600].JPG

Most of my work doesnt need to be super accurate so I have used the weld line thats present on standard pipe to help line things up.

I was thinking that you'd just have 3 SHS sleeves. The two end ones are tacked onto the pipe, the other one with the guide holes just slides to the point of interest. As long as the floor or work surface was flat, then everything would remain in the vertical/horizontal plane.

Cheers

- Mick

Capture.JPG

If I understand this correctly
You want 2 lines 180 degrees apart, running parallel with the pipe axis.

If so, attach pipe to a flat surface and using a block about 1/2" thick place scriber on said block and slide it along the pipe scribing as you go.


Take a piece of cardboard ,wrap it around the pipe and cut on overlap.If you did it right the cardboard snugly warps around the pipe and ends will meet.


Remove cardboard and fold in half exactly. Mark the crease line of the fold. Wrap it around the pipe again cut edge on scribe line and transfer mark crease line to the pipes on opposite side.

Do the same other end of pipe and scribe line using block method.

You now have 2 scribed lines 180 degrees apart that can be match marked to the blocks above, if you choose to use them.

Grahame

I have a vague recollection of doing something like this, using a drill press with a V-block and a distant support for the far end.

Drill the first hole near one end. Reverse the pipe. Place a long all-thread through the first hole, with nuts both sides (all-thread short on one side). To confirm the second hole parallel to the first, visually align the all-thread against a door jamb or anything plumb, or use a spirit level.

For the perpendicular holes, align the all-thread against a horizontal surface, or use a spirit level.

Make sure your drill press is plumb first, of course.

Cheers,
Joe

Slightly off topic, what software did you use to generate the drawing Mick?

Originally Posted by WelderMick

I was thinking that you'd just have 3 SHS sleeves. The two end ones are tacked onto the pipe, the other one with the guide holes just slides to the point of interest. As long as the floor or work surface was flat, then everything would remain in the vertical/horizontal plane.

Cheers

- Mick

Capture.JPG

I've now changed my whole mind. That remark about the flat block on the side.

Now I don't see I need to find top and transfer it to bottom, rotating the pipe and all that.

And I can't have sliding things that slide on the pipe from the end because when using the full lengths the ends are flattened and wider than the pipe.

You need something. To help with clamping the pipe. To help with transferring markings.

I now think all that's needed is a cover that goes over the pipe. Clamp down onto bench. Slots in the sides enable marking longitudinal lines on the sides of the pipe, or dots, or whatever.

The front face of the cover can align with a distance mark or can be measured to, sliding along to where it is needed and then used to make the mark.

Pipe orientation in the first place, if the pipe has already been worked, can easily be accomplished by sticking bolts through one of the existing holes and checking for vertical, as mentioned in this thread.

IMG_0926 [800x600].JPG

This pic shows the bolt used for orientation, the wider ends, the sliding cover and for good measure the strap I use as a template for marking holes at an exact distance from the centre of an existing hole. Got two ends because there's commonly two sizes of hole in these pipes - a 1/4" and a 3/8" or thereabouts.

I would do it in my lathe with my degree wheel and cross slide hole driller but i know you don't have one of them so here would be my second way. Just drill a block of steel for the pipe to slide thru. Then drill a 1/4" hole thru one side to drill the pipe used as a drill jig. Then you could drill one end hole and stick a bit into the hole and use it as a sight to line the rest up. Simple enough...Bob

Originally Posted by Gavin Newman

Slightly off topic, what software did you use to generate the drawing Mick?

Hi Gavin, it's called Sketchup, was owned by Google, now Trimble, but still free to download and use. Its very quick to learn. Something like that drawing takes 5 minutes at the most once you're comfortable with the program. I think a lot of the guys here probably use it. Cheers - Mick