Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 23 of 23
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northern Beaches, NSW
    Posts
    287

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Why do you need this prop shaft extender? Have you lengthened the chassis or something? Would it not be better practice to lengthen the shaft itself?
    Long story short...

    Different Engine and gearbox transplant. As a result my shaft is about 100mm too short plus I now find a chassis cross member in the way so I don't quite have a straight line between flanges. Simply lengthening the shaft doesn't get me around the cross member which I don't want to move. I have enough "spare" angle travel through the UJs so standing the end of the shaft off the transfer box by about 100mm solves my problem(s).

    Thx
    J

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northern Beaches, NSW
    Posts
    287

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Hi Jon,
    A tapered mandrel is a length of round bar set up between centres with a taper of typically around 0.0005" per inch.
    Good old Mr. Rucker made one on his youtube channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WLai2inSpM
    If you made one it wouldn't be a waste of bar as it can be re-machined to make a smaller one again and again.
    If you went down this path, the entire extender is machined in one hit and gives you great concentricity.
    As the guys have said, you can rough it out in the 4 or 3 jaw chuck but then complete the machining on the mandrel.
    You can buy the mandrels hardened and ground but it would be horribly expensive (I think) so you could make your own out of a piece of mild steel.
    I had occasion to make one for a diesel engine driving a massive pump for a fish farm once. I fabricated the spool then made a mandrel to machine it up.
    This was many years ago and it is still running nicely.

    Phil

    I for some reason thought Keith Rucker had turned a tapered mandrel but he has turned a parallel one.
    It is basically the same but to get the taper, a slight offset of the tailstock is all that is needed.
    The last pic on this page is the real ones.
    9x20 Lathe Mandrels & Arbors

    Thanks for this.

    What in my case would hold the extender onto the mandrel? Friction? I assume I would bore the extender out to a precise, known diameter and then the taper needs to have that same diameter at some point along the taper, tap into place with a soft hammer? Doesn't that only leave one side of the extender supported by the mandrel? i.e. the the smaller diameter on the mandrel wouldn't be in contact with the extender? Maybe the taper is so small as to almost be irrelevant?

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,659

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ventureoverland View Post
    Thanks for this.

    What in my case would hold the extender onto the mandrel? Friction? I assume I would bore the extender out to a precise, known diameter and then the taper needs to have that same diameter at some point along the taper, tap into place with a soft hammer? Doesn't that only leave one side of the extender supported by the mandrel? i.e. the the smaller diameter on the mandrel wouldn't be in contact with the extender? Maybe the taper is so small as to almost be irrelevant?
    Hi Jon,
    Spot on on all accounts. The bore doesn't have to be a specific diameter for a one off. If it was, then the bore is normally reamed to a known diameter which will suit the mandrel.
    Friction does all the holding and the taper is so small that there will be no movement of the part to be machined. It's one of those "what sounds right in theory doesn't always happen in practise" things.
    All in all I think you have a great understanding of a tapered mandrel.
    Good luck with the project.
    It doesn't matter which way you go with this, I have a feeling you will learn a lot from it. I would push the mandrel as depending on the revs the shaft will be doing you can set up a harmonic vibration which sucks so concentricity is paramount.

    Phil

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,099

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ventureoverland View Post
    Long story short...

    Different Engine and gearbox transplant. As a result my shaft is about 100mm too short plus I now find a chassis cross member in the way so I don't quite have a straight line between flanges. Simply lengthening the shaft doesn't get me around the cross member which I don't want to move. I have enough "spare" angle travel through the UJs so standing the end of the shaft off the transfer box by about 100mm solves my problem(s).

    Thx
    J
    I see.
    What have you put in the old girl? Anything and everything seems to have found its way under the bonnet of these. Have you put a Series III Salisbury back axle in her as well to take care of the dubious Rover axle's bad habits?

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Hi Jon,
    Spot on on all accounts. The bore doesn't have to be a specific diameter for a one off. If it was, then the bore is normally reamed to a known diameter which will suit the mandrel.
    Friction does all the holding and the taper is so small that there will be no movement of the part to be machined. It's one of those "what sounds right in theory doesn't always happen in practise" things.
    All in all I think you have a great understanding of a tapered mandrel.
    Good luck with the project.
    It doesn't matter which way you go with this, I have a feeling you will learn a lot from it. I would push the mandrel as depending on the revs the shaft will be doing you can set up a harmonic vibration which sucks so concentricity is paramount.

    Phil
    A 1955 Land Rover! I have a sneaking suspicion that it won't be going real fast. I have heard a lot of stories like the brick on the accelerator, the car in lowest gear, steering wheel tied and a cup of tea on the opposite bank while waiting for it to arrive. The water across the ford was too high for the driver to stay in the car.

    Dean

  7. #21
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,467

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    I see.
    What have you put in the old girl? Anything and everything seems to have found its way under the bonnet of these. Have you put a Series III Salisbury back axle in her as well to take care of the dubious Rover axle's bad habits?
    The salisbury axles where at least tapered, but i can assure you if the diff runs dry the pinion goes real quick......
    I once played musical chairs with a 2A and a 3's diffs, by the end of the day we had the 2A with 4 wheel drive and a front wheel drive 3.....

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,099

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    The salisbury axles where at least tapered, but i can assure you if the diff runs dry the pinion goes real quick......
    I once played musical chairs with a 2A and a 3's diffs, by the end of the day we had the 2A with 4 wheel drive and a front wheel drive 3.....

    Ew
    That will do it.
    The Rover diffs were totally inadequate for the vehicle in many ways. Stupid little 2 gear carrier versus the Salisbury's 4 gear carrier and the Salisbury axles were much thicker and also a fine spline.
    I got very good at changing axles in the Rover diffs, but never had to touch the Salisbury back end once we fitted it after the Rover diff dropped the carrier.
    The genuine Rover axles were tapered as I recall, but after market axles were straight. They both still snapped in the same place
    Still in all, very capable vehicles once you knew their idiosyncrasies.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northern Beaches, NSW
    Posts
    287

    Default

    Whilst we appear to have wandered off topic slightly I will expand on what Ive done...

    I acquired the 86" with original gearbox and transfer box but with a totally shot 4 cylinder holden engine.

    The replacement was either going to be a LR Diesel or an original LR 2.0 Petrol as it would originally have had. I wanted the car to be easy to drive every day (short trips!), oh and permanent 4WD would be a bonus.

    I decided on a LR 300Tdi engine and then thought whilst everything was out to get to the chassis (cleaning and painting and probably welding) I may was well put a 5 speed R380 gearbox and matching LT230 Transfer box in.

    So now I have a 300Tdi engine, 5 speed box and permanent 4WD shoe-horned in there.


    Im still undecided what to do about the axles. Early tracta-joints in the front are a quick and easy fix to the permanent 4WD but that still leaves the vulnerability of the semi-floating rear half shafts and the question about what to do with the brakes. I think LWD 107's are bigger and bolt straight on.... Decisions decisions... for another thread!

    Thx
    J

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Rust removal with Citric Acid - pictorial step by step
    By FenceFurniture in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 46
    Last Post: 4th April 2018, 10:58 AM
  2. Step by step on making a Square to Round transition
    By Al B in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 19th September 2012, 11:32 AM
  3. Step by Step Pyrography Project Getting Back on Track
    By David Stanley in forum PYROGRAPHY (Woodburning Art)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 25th September 2011, 12:53 AM
  4. Excellent step-by-step instructions for MAloof-style rockers
    By TassieKiwi in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 14th December 2006, 01:57 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •