Thread: Metal Lathe Paint

Hi Shane,

I am about to do exactly the same thing as you, same lathe also.
Will be interested in replies.

I can tell you this, the original Hercus colour is called Crowhurst green. I'm sure that colour no longer exists, so do a colour match with a part of your lathe that looks original.

When it's time for me to start spraying, I will probably opt for an automotive finish, for it's fast drying properties.

Not much help I know, so let's hear from the experts.

Regards,

Ken

Cheers Ken,

I will probably go with a non-original colour. I was thinking of either beige or maybe blue / machinery green.

Lets hope someone has the good oil.

Shane

My favourite paint for 'industrial' things is one of the hammer finish paints, such as Hammerite .

It's hard to scratch compared to enamels, forgiving in application (brush or spray), a few quick coats usually provides adequate cover, and it has a surface texture that hides poorly finished surfaces.

Drawbacks - it doesn't take spot refinishing all that well if you are looking for an invisible repair (you can't really blend the repair in) and it only comes in a small range of traditional industrial colours.

Tip. Stand the spray can in hot water for a while to warm it up if spraying on a cool day, and make sure the can is shaken well to mix it all up.

If you will be masking some parts to protect them from paint, do a trial run to get the hang of removing the masking tape without pulling the paint off.

I have used one pack 'epoxy' paint on my Hercus restoration...the rust formula. If surprised at how glossy it dries and will flow out pretty well with brush application. (I got lazy, and it was late )

My next project will be in a few months, and I have decided on Rhino T from wagon paints here in Melbourne. I believe they sell nationally. With thinners a three litre pack (2 litres colour, one litre hardener) costs approx $100.00. They will mix to RAL colours or old Australian formulas. I didn't ask them about matching the Hercus paint. (My early 9A was done in blue-gray with a deep red paint inside the bed casting)

Standard safety precautions apply with two pack paint application

BTW, next project is getting that Euro machine tool pastel green. The colour is RAL 6011 (RAL is the european standard for paint colours-I learned about this just last week)

Greg

Cheers Greg,

How do you find the one pack 'epoxy enamel' goes for hardness / durability?

The reason I'm asking, is I don't want to pull it apart again....

Shane

I can only honestly report good results on hand planes, but I baked those for a couple of hours in the oven (home alone). I don't know how durable it will be on a lathe in a hostile environment. But then I'm not going to be using it in the kitchen so who can say?

I would use a hammer finish. Looks professional and nice finish.

I haven't tried it yet but I will be repainting my mill later in the year. I am more than likely going to use POR15. It isn't UV stable but is apparently super hard and won't chip (I have seen steel painted in that has been hammered). Only available in grey or gloss black. This suits me as mine is grey anyway. Ohh and it is a single pack epoxy and has good flow characteristics. I have used it on other stuff and on something like a lathe you will probably never see the brush marks especially if you thin it out 5%.

Thing to watch is solvent resistance and like all painting make sure you spend more time on the preparation than the top coat.

I agree Craig.

The preperation is by far the most important thing. I intend rebuilding the lathe once, and once only. No short cuts. That's why I put the question out there, to find out what people who know more than me know!

The other thing is that I will be spraying all my parts. I feel that I can get better, more uniform coverage with spray, and no brush marks.

Cheers,
Shane

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

If you will be masking some parts to protect them from paint, do a trial run to get the hang of removing the masking tape without pulling the paint off.

Removing the masking tape without damage is not a problem if one uses the 3M Scotch brand Blue masking tape.I have a roll three years old which I can still peel the tape from the roll without tearing.It is dearer than the normal stuff however.

Grahame

Here is a link to Wagon paints, the brand that I mentioned before (no affiliation). Their rhino epoxy has been highly recommended to me by two independent sources. Apparently it flows out very smoothly, giving an almost plastic dipped look to the job.

I used Wagon basic machinery enamel on my big band saw restoration, and it has held up very well...no scratches or chips yet, and its been almost a year since I did that job.

As has been mentioned, prep work is everything

http://www.wagonpaints.com.au/


And here is required reading. It is a long thread on Practical Machinist dealing with a fantastic restoration of a South Bend 9A (same as Hercus)

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/ub...ic/17/567.html

She (the owner/restorer) is the moderator of the South Bend group on that site, and they have a lot of info applicable to the Hercus (as they are almost identical machines)

Cheers.

Thanks Grahame and Gregory.

I only use the 3M tape, is dearer but worth the expense, I agree.

I havn't seen the practical machinst restoration before - thanks for the link.

Originally Posted by Beerbotboffin

I only use the 3M tape, is dearer but worth the expense, I agree.

I meant to mention this too. I know that the concept of "trusted brand" is outmoded, but I can't recall ever being disappointed with any 3M product once I got past the cash register.

I have a roll of "duck" brand blue tape here that has been crap from day one.

Greg

I used the single pack epoxy paint on my lathe a few years ago now. It turned out really well. I stripped the old girl back to bear metal, filled with bog and sanded where neccessary. Used etch primer, and then primed with the same brand as epoxy. Finished with two coats of the epoxy. It hasn't chipped at all, and isn't affected by oil/cutting fluid etc.

Here is a pic of the lathe in question.
I use it a lot, so it is very dirty, but the paint is in very good nick.