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Thread: Metal stairs
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2nd October 2013, 12:27 PM #16
I remember a guy who bought a period stone house with original narrow tall windows, numerous fireplace etc
wife was pregnant and kept on saying she felt she was choking, no air! So he not only ripped out the iron windows, he widened the openings cutting into the stonework, place lower lintels and aluminium sliding windows.
i will not tell you what else he did to that house, it is too sad.“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
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2nd October 2013 12:27 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd October 2013, 07:47 PM #17
Yes, those ready made stringers are very tempting but I have my head set in making something slightly different, plus I need the stringer to have a dog leg at the landing end and another at the base since it starts up from an existing deck and it has to bolt onto a bracket that comes out between the deck boards.
“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
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2nd October 2013, 07:53 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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To answer your original question. If lapping sections such as angle iron to the web of the channel, you must space the sections apart if you want to gain the best protection from galvanising, (a bit of mig wire works well). The explosion concern is not a real issue with most galvanisers, capped hollow sections are the real issue there. If drilling vent holes, consideration must be given to the way that the frame will be rigged while dipping, (most baths are narrow, long and deep). Oh, don't forget to allow a bit over normal hole clearance for bolt holes, you don't want to drill out all your lovely galvanising to fit a bolt in a hole.
If it were me, I would use flat bar and stitch weld it on to the channel. There must however be at least say 50mm of weld on the top surface of the flat bar, either 2 X 25mm or 1 X 50mm. This will serve to prevent the fatigue issue caused by the inevitable flex of timber treads.
Consider using Duragal channel as it will be amply strong and lighter than conventional PFC, (galvanisers charge by weight of the component as well, not just weight of the zinc added).
Make sure that you remove the silicon from the finished Mig weld. The pickling bath will not remove this and it is just as harmful as slag in preventing adhesion of the galvanising. My favourite way is a needle scaler, but a coarse wire brush on an angle grinder will also work.
As far as "T" bar goes, good luck with that. I haven't seen any for years other than the heavy lintel sections. It is however available in Aluminium if that helps.
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2nd October 2013, 08:14 PM #19
Initially I had this in mind:
Mono Steel Staircase Stair Stringers Stairs Stringer Steps Decking | eBay
Then I realized two problems. One, I much rather have risers between the threads to comply with council and handrails attached to the stringers and not the threads.
Second if I build the stairs with a mono stringer and the massive brackets that go with this build, a 14 steps stair will weight way more than I can lift on my own to take to the Galvinizing mob.“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
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2nd October 2013, 08:25 PM #20
Yes, I realize that flat bar is the way to go. Will probably make a jig to bend the bar in an L shape so to have a place to bolt the risers to and stop the supports to move at all. Bigger holes, agreed.
Two questions: If I use Duragal, I don't think they can galvanize on top of the duragal (?) and in any case it would be wasted. Why not black U channel. They do come in different thickness.
Silicone on the MIG weld? You got me, what silicone?“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
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2nd October 2013, 08:33 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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2nd October 2013, 08:37 PM #22GOLD MEMBER
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Forgot about the silicon.
All mig wire contains silicon as a de oxidiser. The amount is designated in the classification by ES2 ES4 or ES6.
After welding this forms a yellowish brown glassy deposit on the weld.
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