Thread: OMES MEC 70 metal cutting cold saw (WIP)

Attachment 62369 This is the repair area prepped for applying the 2-pac JB Weld.

Attachment 62370 Done and painted

Attachment 62368 All parts painted.

Next up is to work on the motor head. hopefully just a check over and some cleaning. Will change over the gear box oil which I hope is not too hard. Also have to weld up a mobile stand for it, but I need this working before I do that.

Watch this space.

Looks like it will be a good workhorse martrix

The handle that was broken, looks to have been repaired before going by the bronzing in the clamped up picture

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Looks like it will be a good workhorse martrix

The handle that was broken, looks to have been repaired before going by the bronzing in the clamped up picture

Yes indeed. Should be good for another 15+ years.

Yep that handle has been repaired before in two sections. Where it broke this time was a new spot. Obviously people have been yanking on the handle way too much, breaking the handle and fatiguing that critical area (pivoting/locking section) each time.. It doesn't need much pressure to lock solid.

OK, so Ive drained the oil from the gear box. Really stinky on a hot day! Gears look to be in good condition. There were no gaskets on the removable panel and the drain plugs were not sealing= leaky mess. Probably one reason why the saw was so dirty. I will make new gaskets and make some new threaded drain plugs.

Also will drill and tap a drain plug in the coolant well as it doesn't have one.

I assume it will be OK to just use manual automotive gearbox to refill the box? It only spins around 46 rpm so I don't think it needs anything special. Would normal engine oil suffice?

Use an 80W90 grade or heavier dont use 30 grade engine oil its to lite.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Use an 80W90 grade or heavier dont use 30 grade engine oil its to lite.

all right, thanks for that. I will stick with what I have then. Its Penrite 80W-85 manual transmission oil, cheers.

Agree with Pipeclay, it's not the speed you have to worry about, it's the pressure on the gears that you need the heavier weight oil for

Hi Matrix,

What a fantastic job you are doing, restoration is a most rewarding job, breathing new life into old.

The worst part is trying to get all the old crud off your hands, and out from under the finger nails. I can talk with some authority on this subject.

If it's not a rude question, how much did the saw set you back?

Well done,

Ken

Originally Posted by neksmerj

Hi Matrix,

What a fantastic job you are doing, restoration is a most rewarding job, breathing new life into old.

The worst part is trying to get all the old crud off your hands, and out from under the finger nails. I can talk with some authority on this subject.

If it's not a rude question, how much did the saw set you back?

Well done,

Ken

Hi Ken, I got the saw for $360 off Ebay. Thankfully its not costing me much to restore it as there is nothing major to be replaced, and I already have things like cleaning products and paint etc. Hopefully the dirty work will reward me when its finished, as I know I could have bought a brand new one for around $1250. However the new ones don't have as much cast iron or curves in them, and as I have used the 300mm model of this one before I snapped this one up sight unseen from Brisbane. Almost didn't get it down to Melbourne though.

Matrix

With regards to suitable oil, please check out what Brobo recommends for their cold saws.

You get one go at it & their product is very similar

Den

Hi Matrix,

May I ask, which paint stripper are you using?

I have been using Citrustrip, simply because it doesn't dry out, and washes up in water. On the down side, it takes a few applications to remove enamel, with rinsing in between, to get down to base metal.

Maybe I should be using a small hand held wire brush, instead of a tooth brush.
"Paint stripper on the teeth doesn't taste so good either" just kiddin.

Ken

Originally Posted by cub3

Matrix

With regards to suitable oil, please check out what Brobo recommends for their cold saws.

You get one go at it & their product is very similar

Den

Will do. I will shoot them an email. I don't need to fill up the gear box until I'm ready to use it anyway.

Originally Posted by neksmerj

Hi Matrix,

May I ask, which paint stripper are you using?

I have been using Citrustrip, simply because it doesn't dry out, and washes up in water. On the down side, it takes a few applications to remove enamel, with rinsing in between, to get down to base metal.

Maybe I should be using a small hand held wire brush, instead of a tooth brush.
"Paint stripper on the teeth doesn't taste so good either" just kiddin.

Ken

Here is what I use when paint stripping metal stuff. Highly advise to use a face shield. You can direct the wire brush so that it doesn't flick the stripper onto you. Just splash a bit of water on the area of skin that is burning!. I don't recommend anyone to get the stripper on your skin, but i regularly get it on me and never had a problem. It does burn but has never left a mark. The other day I was using the wire brush at dusk and my legs got really itchy. Thought it must have been the mozzies attacking, but it turned out that it was the spray from the wire brush.

Attachment 62471

brobo use a 220 grade oil

Hey - way cool martix!

That sucker if gonna come in real handi when you build your MM (Martrix Mill)!