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Thread: Painting machines
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11th May 2013, 02:10 PM #76Dave J Guest
I agree, sent it out as is, it's just another job to them.
Dave
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11th May 2013 02:10 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th May 2013, 02:55 PM #77Member
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11th May 2013, 02:57 PM #78SENIOR MEMBER
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Oh and it very reactive with aluminum. Its a good rule to just use it for cast iron/stainless steel/glass.
The supermarket stuff is fine but I think it is a little cheaper at the hardware stores.
I use about 50-100 grams per 10L and it works well, takes a day or two to strip back to cast iron and a pressure washer to clean the soft paint off. But it depends a little how game you are; you could go stronger or you could go weaker. The stronger it is the more dangerous it is and the more caution you should use. At the concentration I use a few minutes after an accidental exposure it will start to irritate my skin and burn if left untreated.
Important: make sure you have a face shield on and flipped down, protective clothing and rubber gloves and some cheap vinegar and plenty of running water on standby to neutralise any caustic soda you might get on yourself. Remember the chemical burn that Jack get on his hand in Fight Club? thats a caustic soda burn... and WILL bind you if it gets it in your eyes.
Also note that temperature has an impact on the strength, the higher the temperature of the solution that more reactive it is.
-Josh
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11th May 2013, 04:09 PM #79
Foundry sand
The machine that I restored with sand deposits required old fashioned pick and shovel work, only using whatever implement is in the bottom drawer of the toolbox. I also have a needle scaler which works very well if you have access. Best seems to be a dull screwdriver and a stiff wire brush. In the head of my drill press I mined three cups of oil bonded black sand.
It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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11th May 2013, 05:19 PM #80Dave J Guest
Thanks for for taking the time to give the full detailed instructions Josh.
Yeah I know about burning, we usually use paint stripper and one dot your running for water, LOL
At least with the paint stripper you can smell if it on you as it has a strong odor to it, but is bloody potent.
Dave
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12th May 2013, 12:01 PM #81Pink 10EE owner
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12th May 2013, 12:18 PM #82Member
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12th May 2013, 07:03 PM #83Pink 10EE owner
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Well the tc grinder and surface grinder I have, both of reputable brands, have exceptionally smooth running motors... There is no vibration at all coming from them... Compare that to a modern fan cooled motor that has vibration, and any vibration will show up in something so fussy as grinding... Hell even a bad wheel dressing will show up in grinding operations... it is amazing how fussy grinding is, it is nearly you need to consult a witchdoctor before each day if you want good results because there are a zillion variables to take into consideration.
Yes and we are way off topicLight red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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12th May 2013, 11:55 PM #84Member
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Yes many things will upset grinding, but I have seen many grinders with fan cooled motors. I had a late model "danobat" grinder (Used Danobat RE-800A. Cylindrical grinding machine - - Exapro) which was superior to the J&S and it had fan cooled motors. Typically "plain" or uber high precision bearings (sometimes pressure fed) were what distinguished a Cyl grinder into the next level of quality. All the crank grinders I have had or used (old and newer) I recall having fan cooled conventional motors. Maybe it can from a time when motor quality/balance was nt what it is today.
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13th May 2013, 12:13 PM #85Pink 10EE owner
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I meant generic fan cooled motor, the sort you buy from an electrical shop, not a balanced motor as would be fitted to precision grinders...
Just in my limited experience here is a huge difference between the skills different fitter and turners that might be called upon to repair machine tools have...
Like my Monarch 10EE saddle had been disassembled in the past but the person putting it back together never connected the oil line that feeds the auto lube system to the saddle ways... What is the skill level of a person that does that sort of thing...?Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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13th May 2013, 04:58 PM #86Pink 10EE owner
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Moving right along now
I may have made a bit of an error... I have the bed sitting in a caustic solution... However while the caustic solution will remove new paints... Paints of years gone by are different and the caustic solution will not shift them, or even make them soft.....Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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13th May 2013, 05:06 PM #87SENIOR MEMBER
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13th May 2013, 06:13 PM #88SENIOR MEMBER
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Have you considered electrolysis?
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13th May 2013, 06:19 PM #89Pink 10EE owner
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It will not shift paint will it?
i seemed to have left a f outLight red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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13th May 2013, 06:28 PM #90SENIOR MEMBER
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Richard, all I get this end was a ##### to your question. I'm in Singapore at the moment so maybe it's their censorship
If the question was will it remove paint, then the answer is yes. Apparently, but what would I know, I just sit there polishing my machines all day
An internet search should reveal more than a machine polisher. Do a search and see if you think it may be good for your purposes.
Pete
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