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Thread: Parkanson power hacksaw
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25th January 2012, 12:45 AM #16Dave J Guest
You must have good eyes, I haven't looked at the blade yet but I would think it should cut on the back stroke so the material is pushed against the fixed jaw.
Dave
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25th January 2012 12:45 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th January 2012, 07:44 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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HI Dave,
No, They Cut on the Forward Stroke - as the Blades moves towards the front of the Saw it Cuts. Here is a Link to a Guy who Timed His in both directions Power hacksaw Update - RC Groups . The Sticker on the Right Hand side of the Beam should have the Cutting Direction Marked on it. The Sticker on the Left Hand Side of the Beam also shows the Cutting Direction on Your Saw - I don't remember ever seeing that sticker of a Blade on any Parkanson before (homemade maybe?).All The Best steran50 Stewart
The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.
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25th January 2012, 09:32 AM #18GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Stewart,
Why dont you just give away the secret of my super eye sight then (that and I think I can see the arrow on the blade)
I'm not sure the test in your link is valid, you can adjust the downfeed after all, but I think I can guess whats going on. It might be something to do with the side load from the conrod acting to increase or decrease the cut. The theory goes that big end* will be on the top half of the crank shaft on the cutting stroke.
Will be interesting to watch. I wonder why they did it this way?
Stuart
*Big end in the car motor sense. They may well be the same size.
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25th January 2012, 10:14 AM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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Its been on that machine from new but where/who it came from is anyones guess.
I bought the saw as scrap but as I'm in the process of moving I've come to the realisation that I need to cull a bit. Hence offering it to Dave as he lives fairly close.
I might add that Dave very enthusiastically tried to persuade me to sell him my mill as well. LOL. Sorry Dave. its a keeper. Hopefully it will be running again sometime this year after a 2 & 1/2 year suspension of duty.
bollie7
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25th January 2012, 10:55 AM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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The adjustment is on the fluid escaping the piston which holds up the blade assembly. This model, and the one shown by Ray, are both still common in Tech Studies workshops in SA. I'd bet there are quite a few Owner's manuals lying around in Techies' offices. Many of the schools are in the process of getting rid of these saws so you may be able to pick up the manual.
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25th January 2012, 01:00 PM #21Senior Member
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Hi Cooper,
Not sure when I will fully strip it down, but I will give it a light clean and get it going soon to see if there is anything I need to chases up for it before hand.
Did your mate end up buying that bandsaw I contacted you about?
Think he is buying a ride on mower for a property that he has up at wallaroo, that he needs to clean up. so the band saw might have to wait.
Cooper
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25th January 2012, 03:57 PM #22Dave J Guest
Thanks guys, I am now no better off as one says this way and the other says that way. From what I have seen over the years the work always gets pulled into the fixed jaw, which makes sense to me.
The stickers look to be factory, maybe they added them in the latter models as Bollie said it was late 80s early 90s model. Then again the TAFE could have added them for students.
Bollie, thanks again for contacting me, much appreciated.
Dave
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25th January 2012, 03:59 PM #23Dave J Guest
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25th January 2012, 05:43 PM #24Philomath in training
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Dave, it may help to see the saw in action. The more sophisticated lifted on the return stroke to avoid tooth wear. If you have one of those types there might be an observable change that will give you a hint.
Michael
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25th January 2012, 05:51 PM #25Dave J Guest
Hi Michael, your right there. It will be a few weeks until I get it running as it's 3ph at the moment and I will change it over to single. I have a magnetic start stop switch here, but will also hit ebay for emergency stop switch etc.
Dave
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25th January 2012, 06:11 PM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Dave,
with regards to the direction of cut with power hacksaws it is all about the pull of the crank and what is known as angularity. The connecting rod should be pulling the blade down into the work as the crank rotates. this stops the potential of skipping the blade across the work and breaking some teeth off. Pushing forward with the conrod trying to lift the headframe off the work can cause this. I am sure you will get the cut rate in both directions of the blade but you will break a lot less teeth. Just make sure the direction of rotation of the crank is anticlockwise looking at the crank and con-rod.
This is also true with steam engines where there are less knocks 'running over' than 'running under'.
Hope this helps.
Phil
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25th January 2012, 06:23 PM #27Dave J Guest
Thanks Phil.
I don't really know which direction the original motor run, but will take you advice.
Dave
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25th January 2012, 06:50 PM #28SENIOR MEMBER
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25th January 2012, 07:01 PM #29Dave J Guest
LOL,
You have busted him
Dave
EDIT
That maybe a new name for him, Super Vision Stuart, or SVS for short, LOLLast edited by Dave J; 25th January 2012 at 07:04 PM. Reason: Edit
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25th January 2012, 07:59 PM #30
That"s what I thought with mine also , but I timed it in both directions and it cuts quicker on the forward stroke .
I sought advice from a number of places and was told to time it , the quicker cut is the correct direction .
I cut a piece of flat bar 100mm x 25mm ,cutting on the back stroke it took 12mins ,cutting on the forward stroke it took just over 6mins."Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
Groucho Marx
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