Thread: Which pedestal drill press should I buy?

Originally Posted by Marc

My drill has MT3 taper and I changed the chuck for a 1-16mm keyless chuck, (not 3-16).

Thanks - My 3-16 was a guess. I knew they did not go down to 0. I'll change my original post. (I should have checked a catalogue but was pushed for time)

My reasoning was mainly along the lines of why pay for a machine designed for bigger work when it is not necessary. If the OP was doing structural work (walkways for boat pontoons for example), then that machine would be worthwhile but when most holes to be drilled will be 10mm and under it is paying for capacity that you will never need. I have a MT3 Waldown* and I only occasionally drill with anything over 13mm. When I do it rarely tops 20mm - a 32mm capacity machine would be a waste.
A smaller machine will be more sensitive and have a higher speed** suitable for smaller size holes, and is more likely to use T-slot bolts in common with other equipment in a small workshop

Michael

*Salvaged from a welding shop - it kept breaking because they overloaded it. They could have done with the 32mm machine
** More important for drilling wood and Al

Originally Posted by Marc

My drill has MT3 taper and I changed the chuck for a 1-16mm keyless chuck, (not 3-16) . For larger holes I have a few drill bits with an M3 taper so need no chuck, and even bigger, an annular cutter adaptor.
An adaptor from MT4 to MT3 or MT2 if you wanted it, can be haven for a song http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Morse-T...item1e9a902702
You can also have different chuck for different jobs.
A drill press like any other machine needs a string of tools to go with it. You will never be able to have one machine that does everything without changing a few bits on it.
A smaller machine will only do small jobs. A bigger machine will do almost anything you want to do providing you don't buy a 3 ton industrial monster.

I had my fair share of small benchtop drills and flimsy pedestal drills and sold them quick smart.
I wouldn't be too concerned with the behaviour of salesman nor the provenience of the H&F drills. Let's be clear. all of the H&F machines are a compromise, taiwan or china they are made to a budget. However they are a better compromise than the stuff on ebay or bunnings or mitre ten
If you have 2000 dollars to spend by all means shop for one made in Switzerland or Germany if you can find it.
http://www.flott.de/en/flott/product...ing-machinery/
I personally like the PD-35 yet I am happy with the PD-26 I bought second hand. That Steelmaster you linked is almost identical to the PD-26 I have take away the taper.

PS
As we are splitting hairs over Taiwanese provenience, I remember when the Japanese started to manufacture in Taiwan and we all commented in horror about the shonky stuff made in Taiwan factories with dirt floor and barefoot workers.

Hi Marc,

Thanks for for your post, it was very informative and helped me make my decision.

I think that the PD-26 machine at H&F is the one I will go for.

As you say, it will allow me to do bigger jobs (even if I am paying for a machine capacity that I will rarely use) and by changing the Chuck when required it will give me flexibility.

I can always buy drill bits for larger jobs with MT3 tapers if required. Any excuse to buy more gear

The PD-35 is $500 more than the PD-26 and the motor speed is slower.

Am I correct in saying that drilling less than 10mm holes in aluminum requires a machine RPM of 2000 to 2800?

My next project is building a cnc machine in aluminum so there will be plenty of 10mm and less drilling required. I will also be doing a lot of tapping.

Originally Posted by Michael G

Thanks - My 3-16 was a guess. I knew they did not go down to 0. I'll change my original post. (I should have checked a catalogue but was pushed for time)

My reasoning was mainly along the lines of why pay for a machine designed for bigger work when it is not necessary. If the OP was doing structural work (walkways for boat pontoons for example), then that machine would be worthwhile but when most holes to be drilled will be 10mm and under it is paying for capacity that you will never need. I have a MT3 Waldown* and I only occasionally drill with anything over 13mm. When I do it rarely tops 20mm - a 32mm capacity machine would be a waste.
A smaller machine will be more sensitive and have a higher speed** suitable for smaller size holes, and is more likely to use T-slot bolts in common with other equipment in a small workshop

Michael

*Salvaged from a welding shop - it kept breaking because they overloaded it. They could have done with the 32mm machine
** More important for drilling wood and Al

Thank Michael.

I agree that MT4 is not the right choice for me.

The PD-26 seems to suit my needs more.

Originally Posted by Michael G

Thanks - My 3-16 was a guess. I knew they did not go down to 0. I'll change my original post. (I should have checked a catalogue but was pushed for time)

My reasoning was mainly along the lines of why pay for a machine designed for bigger work when it is not necessary. If the OP was doing structural work (walkways for boat pontoons for example), then that machine would be worthwhile but when most holes to be drilled will be 10mm and under it is paying for capacity that you will never need. I have a MT3 Waldown* and I only occasionally drill with anything over 13mm. When I do it rarely tops 20mm - a 32mm capacity machine would be a waste.
A smaller machine will be more sensitive and have a higher speed** suitable for smaller size holes, and is more likely to use T-slot bolts in common with other equipment in a small workshop

Michael

*Salvaged from a welding shop - it kept breaking because they overloaded it. They could have done with the 32mm machine
** More important for drilling wood and Al

Actually you were not wrong at all, most larger chucks are 3-16.
Yes a smaller pedestal or even bench top drill has it's uses, providing it is a quality machine. I wish I could find a small machine that is even usable let alone be of any discernable quality and precision. I would probably need to fork out way more than the $800 in question.
When it comes down to being practical, I know with this drill press I can drill a 1mm hole and hold the piece firmly on a vice steady on a cast iron platform horizontal or at an angle. The handles of the drill are chunky pieces of metal and I can press down on them with one finger of hang from them with both arms....well hopefully not with the 1mm drill ha ha

There was a nice Jones and Shipman Geared Pedestal Drill at the Thales Auction in Bendigo today, sold for $90. ($112 with rip and GST )




Ray

Wow, that is a bargain. You would pay 4-5k for a geared pedestal drill new

Just an update.

I purchased the PD-26 from H&F today.

Thanks for all the informative comments. They really helped me to make a decision.

Even though the machine I purchased is made in China, I am hopeful that it will suit my needs. Time will tell.

Now I would like some recommendations on really good drill bits (to suit a 16mm chuck) for use with aluminium and steel.

Originally Posted by BrentonSpear

Just an update.

I purchased the PD-26 from H&F today.

Thanks for all the informative comments. They really helped me to make a decision.

Even though the machine I purchased is made in China, I am hopeful that it will suit my needs. Time will tell.

Now I would like some recommendations on really good drill bits (to suit a 16mm chuck) for use with aluminium and steel.

Hope you enjoy your new toy

Our local Home Hardware currently has a special on a set of P&N drill bits, up to 13mm in 0.5mm incements, for $99, usually $249 (IIRC).

Last time I was in Alice Springs Bunnings they had Dewalt Extreme 2 drill bit sets 1 to 13 mm for $98.00

Originally Posted by BrentonSpear

Just an update.

I purchased the PD-26 from H&F today.

Ok, I'll admit to being surprised you passed on the radial arm waldown...

Ray

PS. Dormer make good drills. http://au.element14.com/webapp/wcs/s...&storeId=10184

After a fair wait (my fault) I finally picked up my PD26 pedestal drill today from H&F.

It seems to have pretty good build quality. A couple of items are not perfect but for the price I can live with it.

Now I am embarrassed to say but I am not sure how to locate the arbor into the drill spindle.

Does the arbor just push up into it and sit there or does it get attached somehow?

Same for the chuck, do you just 'screw' the chuck to the arbor and it stays there?

Thanks for your help

Both just push on and a tap or two with a wooden mallet should seat both.

The end of the MT arbor should have a tang that fits in a slot inside the tapered hole in the spindle.
If you wind down the spindle you should see a hole in the side of the spindle where you insert a key to release the MT arbor. or MT shanked drill bit
The hole should allow you to see if the tang is properly seated

Make sure the MT and chuck arbor are both clean and lightly rub them with a drop of machine oil, not much , just a thin film on the surface before you insert.

Originally Posted by BobL

Both just push on and a tap or two with a wooden mallet should seat both.

The end of the MT arbor should have a tang that fits in a slot inside the tapered hole in the spindle.
If you wind down the spindle you should see a hole in the side of the spindle where you insert a key to release the MT arbor. or MT shanked drill bit
The hole should allow you to see if the tang is properly seated

Make sure the MT and chuck arbor are both clean and lightly rub them with a drop of machine oil, not much , just a thin film on the surface before you insert.

Thanks Bob.
I have now seated the arbor and the chuck and drilled my first two holes