Thread: Your latest project

Keith,
Very nice projects. It is great when you make something that every time you use it you appreciate it.
Bob

Just typed a longish reply but it went missing, SIGH.

Anyway, what size HSS are you using?

Dean

Nice work Keith, very well thought out and executed.


Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Just typed a longish reply but it went missing, SIGH.

Anyway, what size HSS are you using?

Dean

I think I found my missing post. In the right thread. SIGH.

Skip these posts.

Dean

Keith
Well done and a good use of materials....Gold star for you..

What I actually meant to say in this thread was I really like the idea of using different regulators for different purposes. I have a concern about oil in the air lines when doing spray painting but that could be fixed by using a different hose or line/hose for this purpose.

Dean

Hi Dean,
I have a dedicated Hose that I just use for Spraying, another Hose for the Air Tools and a general purpose Hose. As you said in your post I don't want any oil or water contamination in the hose just for spraying and Plasma Cutter.
I use a Bag Name Tag on the end of the Hose with Spraying written on it so its easily identified.

Regards,
Keith.

my project at the moment is the power hacksaw i bought a week ago , i now have it striped down and have found that the bed is cracked for 3/4 of its length on both sides , from i think heavy stuff overhanging in the vice.
its cast , i have tried several methods of welding it and failed on each , so i am now manufacturing a new bed for it . the biggest problem is the vice slides on the bed and runs kind of like ways and needs to be a reasonable fit above and below the bed .so the bed needs to be the right thickness which is 9/16 . to get that i need to build up the steel cos you cant buy 9/16 steel ( dont have a mill and its 700mm long . i want to keep the old vice working cos i like it , when you wind it both jaws move they are on a left and right hand acme thread.
anyway today i wend to inverell and bought some 75x40 paralell channel ( and the 40 part is important ) i also got some 40 x 8 flat bar , the flange on the channel is 6.1 mm so if i weld the 40 x 8 to the flange i get a fit that is plenty good enough for the vice to slide on . i am also going to rearange the pulley set up cos it is a mess . plus there is a couple of bits missing and i dont know what they look like yet but will figure it out later when it is more together the missing bits are meant to pull the pulley dog clutch out of gear at the end of the cut .
i cant find out what breed the thing is which makes it harder . there is no name on it anywhere just a part number cast into every casting on it .
johno

Today I managed to turn that pesky ACME thread that gave me grief a while ago
P1010840 (Medium).JPG

Phil suggested that I could possibly make it easier for myself if I used my travelling steady. The travelling steady for my lathe is solid, but enormous. It bolts both sides of the cross slide - the Monarch version only bolts on the headstock side I believe. (Incidentally I haven't got a genuine CVA fixed steady - it's actually come from a Monarch 10EE. Don't tell RC otherwise he'll want it)
P1010864 (Medium).JPG
The brass fingers are about an inch wide, so when the tool position is adjusted so that the finger misses the flange on the headstock end of the thread, the other side of the finger fouls the centre at the other end before the tool is at the start of the screw*.
P1010863 (Medium).JPG
Anyway, I managed to get the thread done. I haven't mounted the nut up yet but it feels like 3/10 of bugger all backlash, which is close to what I'm aiming for. The next issue will be mounting the (bought) nut so that it is the right height and square
P1010865 (Medium).JPG
The ironic thing was that I had all sorts of problems shaving the flanks of the thread for the final because the current screw kept vibrating out of position. The fit of the screw & gib is meant to be so good that the compound only moves if you turn the handle - there is no locking screw to prevent movement.

*Unlike like RC's light red lathe being a self imposed test of manhood, I'm sure this this is an official test of some sort. It's probably written in the lathe instructions somewhere that if you can't cut a 4" long 1/2" Acme thread without having recourse to a steady, then you should be using a lathe of lesser pedigree until you can. The traveling steady looks like anything less than 1/2" diameter would not fit the fingers. Makes me wonder what it is there for really...

Michael

Well done Michael,
mission accomplished.
Would it have been possible to make some inserts that weren't so broad as the 1" ones and use them instead.
Just thinkin'

Phil

Nice job Michael. At the least you can use this one to cut a final screw .

Next step the cross slide.

Dean

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Would it have been possible to make some inserts that weren't so broad as the 1" ones and use them instead.

The idea did cross my mind too. I rarely use steadies so it may be a case of making some and waiting several years before they get used though.

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

At the least you can use this one to cut a final screw .

Yes, that was my thought if once mounted there are still issues there. I'm hoping that it will be good enough to let me work on the cross slide without extraneous movement.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

The idea did cross my mind too. I rarely use steadies so it may be a case of making some and waiting several years before they get used though.


Yes, that was my thought if once mounted there are still issues there. I'm hoping that it will be good enough to let me work on the cross slide without extraneous movement.

Michael

You can tighten up the jibs to reduce movement for the one job tho?

All my steadies are the same size as yours except fot the fixed steady for the CY. It has bearings. This steady is huge. I will need the winch to lift it in to place to avoid injury. The ring is about 50mm thick and at least that deep. Similar to yours but in a 16 inch circle.

Your steady is an interesting design. Be a shame to see it painted light red.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

You can tighten up the jibs to reduce movement for the one job tho?

Not really - the gibs are adjusted with a screw from the front - none of this multiple grub screw stuff here.
section (Large).jpg
Scrap section C-C shows the arrangement although rather poorly. The gib is at maximum adjustment as it is. Once I have a nut worth knowing about the plan is to strip the compound, scrape the surfaces, shim the gib (I think the cross slide needs a new gib so the plan was to shim the compound until the cross slide is done and then cut down the cross slide gib for the compound), install the new nut & screw and then move on to the cross slide. After lunch I will then...

Michael