Thread: Your latest project

Originally Posted by Keith_W

Hi krisfarm,
Great job on the clamps, I too have them in my to-do list.
I had looked on the web for dimensions and have came across this site forthe sizes, this maybe of help to others like me that are looking for plans.
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/clamp-manufacturing-co/kant-twist-clamps/
Regards,
Keith_W

Hi Keith,
The PDF that I downloaded has the same dimensions as yours,one area to check out before making is the location of the rivet locations as these are not shown, particularly the rivets near both of the swiveling threaded fittings, if the rivet is too close the threaded rod will foul on the rivet and prevent full closing/opening of the clamp.I made my rivets with a shoulder on them,this increases the diameter somewhat.
This is one of the reasons I made up a cardboard templet before starting, you can also adjust the arms design to your application and be sure it will work. A great project.
Bob

Here is another site with useful info too Keith, but while it gives fairly comprehensive info for one particular size, info on other sizes is minimal. Thanks to you Keith and to Bob for for the info and build tips- it looks like a model is a good idea to make sure that re-enforcing pins for example do not foul the screw when closing the clamp. (Unless of course you have and can drive SolidWorks to do it for you). Like others, I was kind of hoping that someone had uploaded a comprehensive set of drawings ans specs of the full range of sizes, or even a large subset of the full range, but it seems like we will have to do some of the work for ourselves. If anyone can advise what material sizes are used for the larger clamps, and the thread specs for the screws, that would be very useful info and perhaps save some heartbreak if someone under speced critical bits.
http://lphscadd.wikispaces.com/file/...p+Assembly.pdf
Rob.

Hi Rob,
That link is the one I originally downloaded,when looking at it closely I noticed that the different views showed some missing rivets. This is why I did not include it in my original post. When I see tings like that it immediately throws up a red flag. Hence my making up the cardboard templet just make sure it will all work. As for the steel thickness/thread sizes used I could not find any information apart from that shown in the link. On my 3-3/8" clamp I used 3mm thick steel and 2mm thick stainless steel on the 1-3/8". I did increase the width of the section at the centre pivot point on both sets (not sure if it was necessary as they are fairly strong and with a short cross bar you cannot apply that much force) I used a 10mm and 8mm stainless steel threaded bar on the two clamps. For larger sizes I would just move up to 12mm/16mm/25mm and work out the sizes of the other components to suit.Hope this helps.
Bob

Thanks for your info Bob, if no one else pops up with specs and measurements, it may be worth my asking the question in a separate post, first here and if no answer, again in PM. I did see some discussion there on these clamps where it was stated that the patent rights have expired, and various posters were wondering why there were not more knock offs at lower prices about. It wouldn't seem to be "rocket science" to make a decent clamp, more a matter of choosing the correct materials and any heat treatment type processes, and just reasonable care in machining and fabrication and good job done. Yet Bessey, Kan't-Twist and strings of others have good markets for some pretty expensive hardware. Even the cheapest and smallest Asian lathes and mills would be an order of magnitude more complex to produce, and yet they are around in their thousands or even millions, but other than some F clamps, or bar clamps if you prefer, and vice grip style clamps, there aren't many other clamps around as far as I can see.
Anyway thanks again, and congratulations on a great job done on yours,
Rob.

I'm sure a man (or woman for that matter) can never have too much storage. My latest storage project is a set of vertical storage tubes that can hold shorter and longer offcuts and stock. I made it from some old square downpipe that I pop riveted together and screwed to a base with wheels so that it can be easily moved for access and when cleaning the floor.. yes, I do clean the floor... ocassionally... very ocassionally ;-)

I've also used a lot of this downpipe elsewhere in the shed to store shorter offcuts.

Originally Posted by Blu_Rock

I'm sure a man (or woman for that matter) can never have too much storage. My latest storage project is a set of vertical storage tubes that can hold shorter and longer offcuts and stock. I made it from some old square downpipe that I pop riveted together and screwed to a base with wheels so that it can be easily moved for access and when cleaning the floor.. yes, I do clean the floor... ocassionally... very ocassionally ;-)

I've also used a lot of this downpipe elsewhere in the shed to store shorter offcuts.

Great idea. you got a fair bit of stock.
aaron

For longer lengths of stock, I've made up some racks from wood with holes drilled at a slight upward angle to stop the round stuff rolling off. The round steel bar is about 12mm.

Simple and effective - I like it.

Like everyone else, I like your idea and am envious of your stock level, shanks for sharing,
Rob.

Originally Posted by Blu_Rock

For longer lengths of stock, I've made up some racks from wood with holes drilled at a slight upward angle to stop the round stuff rolling off. The round steel bar is about 12mm.

Fantastic idea, but where do I find wall space???????
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Fantastic idea, but where do I find wall space???????
Kryn

Yeah, it's a battle for space in the shed. I've got a fair bit of wood stock also so I had to build a new shed (6.5m x 3.6m) just to get my woodwork stock and tools out of the way!

I'm in the process of doing that also, trouble is that the lathe crapped itself again. So which comes first the shed or the lathe????
Fantastic idea though.
Kryn

Finally finished the intermediate drive and fitted it today.
Just the wiring, belt guard and linishing the tables to go....
Had a paying job for a couple of weeks that had priority (rebuilding a vintage motorbike )

IMAG1073.jpg IMAG1075.jpg IMAG1076.jpg

In my adaptation of the detail provided by Anorakbob I made the intermediate pulley spindle spin in a double-row ball bearing, because there was not enough 'meat' in the pulley to fit bearings to run on a fixed spindle. It seems to work just fine. The tension adjustment using an eccenter in genial as is locating it with the motor mount pins in a groove.... I should probably paint the new part in Waldown blue while I'm at it to make it look 'factory'

Hey Joe,

How will you lock the eccentric adjuster? Was it Bavarian vintage?

Bob.