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Thread: Your latest project
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19th March 2014, 07:00 PM #1201GOLD MEMBER
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Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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19th March 2014 07:00 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th March 2014, 08:33 PM #1202
Simon, it is just called Turquoise and a number (see earlier posts). It is an isocyanide free 2K paint mixed up and filled into a paint can. It was selected by the paint matching guy in the shop from a paint chart, rather than charging me $30 to eye-match the paint to a small spot of original paint and colour on the belt cover of my Waldown NH.
Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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19th March 2014, 08:39 PM #1203
clamp
Hi
Following my spiritual mentor again, I made a few of his toolmakers clamps . Harold writes that some people don't like using these clamps around machine tools. So what were they originally designed for - the intended use ? Mike
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22nd March 2014, 12:03 AM #1204Member
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- Oct 2009
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- Upwey VIC
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- 95
C6 Lathe Feed Reversing Tumbler
Guys,
Just completed the final(!) modification to the C6 lathe's change gear setup. This one is a feed reversing tumbler arrangement.
The standard setup on the C6 requires the normal spindle idler to be remounted at a different position and a second supplied idler gear to be mounted behind the spindle. This procedure is a pain as it takes some time, and tiny fingers to fit the gears.
The arrangement for the new setup can be seen in the attached pictures.
The new arrangement took a fair bit of working out as I wanted to retain the ability(as in this previous post https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...32#post1743732) to use any selected gear (from 40T to 90T) as the standard idler, which meant that the geometry had to allow for any sized gear to mesh with the spindle at exactly the same forward tumbler detent position, as well as meshing properly with the reversing idler.
Pictures show the parts for the mechanism, tumbler in forward, neutral and reverse, and installed on the lathe with all the other change gear mods in their full glory
Andrew
Oh, and it works!
DSCN9214.jpgDSCN9212.jpgDSCN9211.jpgDSCN9210.jpgDSCN9209.jpgDSCN9208.jpgDSCN9207.jpgDSCN9206.jpgDSCN9205.jpgDSCN9204.jpgDSCN9203.jpgDSCN9202.jpgDSCN9201.jpgDSCN9200.jpgDSCN9199.jpgDSCN9213.jpg
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22nd March 2014, 05:48 PM #1205Deceased
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- Oct 2012
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- Healesville Vic
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- 26
C6 reversing tumbler
Hi Andrew,
just viewed your post. Quite revolutionary I think. Such a pity Sieg weren't interested in adding it to future C6 production.
I must pop over and have a look at it working.
Please turn your inventive mind to the problem of indexing the chuck on the C6! Then the SX2P mill, then ...
Is there an engineering firm interested in making Andrew's modification parts I wonder??
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29th March 2014, 08:35 PM #1206
Hall knurler
My latest effort I made this Hall knurler in record time , for me that is . A bit rough and ready . I am waiting on the fleabay knurling wheels I bought .. then I will see if the thing works . My next project is Harolds lathe backstop .........Mike
BTW before I can knurl the top tensioner knob, I need a knurling tool , sort of a catch 22 situation .
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30th March 2014, 06:25 PM #1207
Thread Dial Chaser
Just built a metric thread chaser dial for my lathe.
ThreadDialIndicator.jpgThreadDialComplete.jpg
Leadscrew is 3mm.
I figured 14, 16 & 20 tooth cogs were required to engage the leadscrew and track the rotation for all the usual metric thread pitches.
Full detail and design philosophy on my web pages: http://members.iinet.net.au/~rljones...indicator.htmlRay
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30th March 2014, 09:50 PM #1208Senior Member
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- Apr 2009
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- Ballina N.S.W.
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- 371
morrisman,
Some time back I made a similar knurler to yours, I found that a knurled tensioner did not enable me to apply enough pressure on the knurls. In the end I made up a new nut out of a large piece of hexagon bar, tall enough that you can get a spanner on it without fouling on the body of the knurler. You could machine a hexagon on your existing proposed knurled piece.
Bob
UOTE=morrisman;1761490]My latest effort I made this Hall knurler in record time , for me that is . A bit rough and ready . I am waiting on the fleabay knurling wheels I bought .. then I will see if the thing works . My next project is Harolds lathe backstop .........Mike
BTW before I can knurl the top tensioner knob, I need a knurling tool , sort of a catch 22 situation .[/QUOTE]
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31st March 2014, 06:46 AM #1209SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Bob,
A while back Rob (nearnexus) did a video on building up a worn shaft and in the video he showed how to put tension on a knurler using your fingers.
I thought it was a great idea and do all my knurling this way.
It starts at 2.00 minutes.
Phil
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-8TnHhpM1A
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31st March 2014, 12:04 PM #1210
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31st March 2014, 04:06 PM #1211Senior Member
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- Apr 2009
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- Ballina N.S.W.
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Hi Phil,
Thanks for the link. I just had a look at that video, I did not like any of it.
Bob
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31st March 2014, 08:25 PM #1212SENIOR MEMBER
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31st March 2014, 08:55 PM #1213Senior Member
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- Apr 2009
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- Ballina N.S.W.
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Hi Phil,
I agree with your training that a knurled build up is not a good way to build up a shaft, I did it years ago on a big blower fan we had on a furnace it only lasted a few weeks before the bearings were talking to me. As for the setting the knurler off the shaft and then forcing the tool in over the work, this must be loading the knurlers arms up to an unknown level and creating an unknown depth of knurl. Small lathes headstock bearings would be getting a beating. I prefer to have the knurling tool opened bigger than the job and move the tool over to the centre with the lathe turning and slowly adjust it down with the aid of a hexagon head adjuster with a constant stream of lubrication flowing. This way you can adjust the depth of the knurl to suit the diameter of the job and keep the loads for the tool and the lathe to a minimum. Knurling a piece of steel must be one of the highest loads you can subject a lathe too.
Bob
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31st March 2014, 09:07 PM #1214Senior Member
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- Sep 2008
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- Riddells Creek
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- 300
Late in the video Loctite was mentioned, which probably would have done a better job of securing the bearing on it's own, depending on the amount of clearance.
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31st March 2014, 09:32 PM #12151915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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