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Thread: Your latest project
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10th July 2015, 08:58 AM #1531
I have just put a new gear knob on my HJ60 Toyota. I had done a body restoration with new upholstery about 3 years ago and only now did something about the gear knob. It was on Ebay. It is a "man sized" piece made of Aluminium and powder coated black with engraving that is red. It looks OK and certainly does the job but.....its bloody cold on these frosty mornings and probably red hot in summer. It was only $10 and yes you get what you pay for. It came with 3 plastic inserts to fit gear sticks down to 8mm but the Landcruiser had 12mm. The thread in the insert was fine but the very fine thread in the knob needed many layers of thread tape. After a couple of tries it is now quite snug on the gear lever. I don't wear a wedding ring these days so it will be interesting finding out how the powder coat will stand up in use
Just do it!
Kind regards Rod
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10th July 2015 08:58 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th July 2015, 03:42 PM #1532Senior Member
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Spin Indexer
Following on from my earlier post I have made up and fitted the parts to control the end float on this indexer. I had a couple of short pieces of steel bar in stock one is 4130 grade, used to make the threaded bush and the larger piece of unknown specification that I used to make the two knurled lock rings. Both pieces machined up OK the 4130 was slightly harder. The threaded bush is held in place by two 5mm grub screws threaded right through.The thread is metric 1mm pitch.
I am considering adding some "blueing" style coating to try and match the finish on the other parts of the indexer. I have a bottle of Birchwood Casey Super Blue that I have tried previously with poor results.I think heating the parts up to dunk in old engine oil would result in distortion in this situation, so that method is out. Any other suggestions for "Blueing" would be appreciated .
Bob
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11th July 2015, 08:11 PM #1533Product designer retired
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Spin Indexer
Hi Krisfarm,
Nice machining of those parts.
That blueing solution is next to useless, I find it rubs off very easily.
I just wish someone could come up with a cold solution that really works. Something like anodizing would be neat.
Ken
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11th July 2015, 08:36 PM #1534Senior Member
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Very nice job Bob, the knurls have come up beautifully.
When I blue things like this I just use use an LPG torch to heat it until it turns the shade of blue I'm after then dunk it in old diesel oil. The trick is not to let it get too hot and go past purple or you will loose the colour. This process doesn't give a very deep colour skin but I find it durable enough and with a bit of practice you can get some nice colour patterns. The other advantage is that it doesn't get hot enough to cause any real distortion.
Cheers,
Greg.
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11th July 2015, 09:11 PM #1535.
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Superb knurling Bob.
I do as Greg does with the torch but I use Blackfast also - https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...28#post1217328
How does 4130 compare with 4140?
Bob.
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11th July 2015, 09:50 PM #1536GOLD MEMBER
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Very nice work Bob.
Same question and AB how does 4130 compare to 4140?
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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11th July 2015, 10:30 PM #1537Senior Member
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Hi Ken ,Greg, Bob & Simon
Thanks for your reply's.
Ken- I am with you on that Gun Blue, I have tried it different ways including heating the part, applying multiple layers and it still looks bad.
Greg- I am concerned about heat distorting the part it is a firm push fit at the moment and I do not want to loose that.
Bob & Simon-I remember your post on that Blackfast you used but I could not remember the product name and could not find your original post with a quick search. I just reread it, I don't do enough "Blueing" to warrant buying that kit. The engineering shop I picked up that piece of bar from told me it was 4130, I have only used 4130 in tube material before, it may be 4140, the place I got from was very untidy. It is fairly hard, I used insert tooling,it then machined very well, originally it was around 60mm outside diameter and I reduced the OD quickly down to 55mm. Initially running the lathe at 350rpm with a depth of cut off 1.117mm and a feed rate 0.125mm, this produced a fairly good finish,light brown chips .To finish it to down to final size I reduced the DOC to 0.25mm and feed to 0.068 and the finish was mirror like,chips were mid brown colour.Boring the ID I increased the RPM to 500 and DOC 0.125 and feed 0.068 for the final cuts this also produced a really good finish and turned the chips a deep blue, perhaps a bit too fast.
Bob
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12th July 2015, 03:29 AM #1538Senior Member
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Hi Krisfarm
the knurls have come our real nice
in case you go down the heat path to get an even heat colour i put the part on a peice of aluminium about 5 mm thick and heat that from the bottom and let the heat transfer through to the part that way you have a more even heat to the part slow and steady
cheers
Harty
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12th July 2015, 08:27 AM #1539Senior Member
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Harty
Thanks for the tip on the aluminium plate for heat distribution. I will have do a little test piece and check it out. Just had a look at that Holbrook lathe, they sure are solid looking and you have cleaned it all up nice.
Bob
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12th July 2015, 10:22 AM #1540
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21st July 2015, 02:31 PM #1541Senior Member
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Spin Indexer
The 5C/ER32 adaptor designed by John Stevenson arrived, looks to be well made,much nicer threads and machining finish than the Indexer.I mounted the indexer in the mills vice and took a reading of the run out on the 5C taper 0.02mm, this is 0.01mm above the specification shown in the "Technical Documents". I fitted the ER32 adaptor and checked the run out at the taper,this point is 35mm further out, it read 0.03mm. This is slightly less than specifications which show 0.03mm at 25mm. I did a test cut on a piece of 16mm bright bar,cut a hexagon and a square, both came out nice. The indexer is fairly rigid when preforming light cuts. The advantage of not having to buy a set of 5C collets and having the extra clearance from the division plate will work nicely.
Bob
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26th July 2015, 10:47 PM #1542
I have an electric winch mounted on the beam above my lathe and mill. Yesterday I ran a length of cable across the shed next to the beam and suspended the electrical cord/extension from it.
Winch.jpg
4 Jaw Chuck in Storage.jpg I have arranged a storage position for my 4 jaw Chuck. There is a length of 50mm SHS steel bolted to the back of the lathe splash guard. This is in line with the winch which is in line with the lathe spindle mount. 2 of the cam lock pins fit into holes in the SHS. The chuck is held in place by a lever that is under quite a lot of tension from a spring. I will mount the 3 Jaw Chuck above this.
Compressor Air Tanks.jpg A while ago I mentioned the air tank on my cheap direct drive compressor had started leaking due to rust. We have acquired an old bus. It is mostly scrap. It has an old rudimentary form of air brakes. These are the tanks from it. I have started attaching legs. The tanks are upside down. The rear legs have holes for the wheels off the compressor. On the welding bench next to the tanks is a length of red SHS which will mount to the front cross bar as the third leg. A hdpe foot will be turned to fit in the bottom.
The bus has an Auto LPG gas tank about 3/8 full. It is a big tank. It also has a petrol tank that is about 3/4 full of what seems to be very old stale fuel. It is totally clear and has little smell. Iam not sure what to do with the petrol. I am trying to think of uses for a big fuel tank.
Dean
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27th July 2015, 12:13 AM #1543GOLD MEMBER
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27th July 2015, 12:54 AM #1544Senior Member
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- Kimberley, West Australia
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Winch-----or hoist?
Hi Oldneweng,
you say you have a winch there, but I hope it is a hoist. They are not necessarily interchangeable. A winch will have some rudimentary braking in the lowering (pay out) position, but it may only be a crude overrun device which can overheat or fail in an unsafe mode.
A hoist will be capable of lowering its full rated load over its full distance without distress or danger, and any failure should be in a safe mode. Hope you stay safe there,
Combustor.Old iron in the Outback, Kimberley WA.
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27th July 2015, 11:41 AM #1545
Would it still ignite? I am planning on testing a sample to see at some stage. There is about 90l at a rough guess. That would be fun in a basement.
I did think about diesel storage, but I probably don't need to have it portable. We have SWMBO's Rodeo, a farm only diesel 4wd and tractor. Not hard to keep them fueled.
Good point lol. It is a hoist. I searched for winch on EBay and kept calling it that. They are listed as both for amateurs like me.
It is unlikely to have much weight on it anyway. The 4 Jaw may well be the most it has to lift.
I forgot to mention that it is a 125kg "Hoist" with the extra sheave/pulley utilised to give it a 250kg capacity and a slower lift/lower rate which is better suited to the job.
Dean
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