Thread: Protecting new unpainted aluminium boat

Yup...still banned from de hull troof.
(Damn you Wiley, you illegitimate son of an unwed mother).
Ya get that!
Anyone want a Hull Truth Captains club T shirt?

Hi Sean

Yep you are correct the Lanox will wash off over time and require a recoat dust sticks to is a bit too

Cheers
Harty

Hi all I heard back from Sharkhide very promptly and they are convinced their product will do the job. They are setting up an Aussie dealer at present as they don't ship here at present.

Sean

I heard back from the Quintrex dealer who said Q advised that some years ago they had tried a protectant but found it made things worse not better so they gave up on it.
Sean

I also had a call from the guy who supports Nyalic in Australia who seems to have vast experience of how to apply it to original new aluminium or clean up old aluminium before applying Nyalic.

Here are some useful attachments below which readers may find helpful in making a decision on this product.

regards
Sean

acid washing sheets.pdfcanal_boat.pdfcoca-cola_route.pdfMANUAL_2013.pdfsame_boat_in_2013.pdfSILVER_-_FINNISH_METAL_refinished.pdf

I would ask you to do one small "experiment" before accepting at face value any documentation, from a product manufacturer who have a vested interest in selling you that product.

In your first link - about acid washing - there's some good general advice.

One that concerns me however is this.

After washing in acid, they recommend a thorough rinsing... (no problem with that).

Then, they suggest a "neutralizing wash" with baking soda (bi carbonate of soda).

I have some concerns with this.

Using a base to neutralize an acid in theory is a good idea.

However exposing aluminium to strong base materials (i.e. chemicals of a strongly caustic/ basic PH nature) is a BIG "no no".

So I propose you do a very small and easy "experiment" (to prove my point before your own eyes - so that you thoroughly understand / comprehend) before embarking upon this particular route!.

I propose this experiment - be conducted outside in open air.

Get a small china (or stainless steel) i.e. not plastic or aluminium, bowl.

Into it add a few aluminium drink can rip tops.

Add next a couple teaspoons of straight laundry caustic soda flakes (Sodium Hydroxide)!

Then add a tablespoon of water!

Observe the reaction (no naked flames - the out gassing is hydrogen thus explosive).

In a few minutes there should be little of anything left of the aluminium rip tops.

If you'd sooner just watch a vid



This is why you don't use ANY caustic (basic Ph) agent on aluminium boats (including baking soda / bi carbonate of soda).

That's with just a cursory read of the first attachment.

People will tell you anything to sell a product.

Whether it's a good idea, is another story.

Caveat emptor... might be nothing wrong with Nyalac product - but the instructions they supply for preparation before applying it - to me sound fundamentally flawed IMHO.

Acids not good around aluminium, (which is why you have to be so careful with an acid wash) - but caustic (base Ph) substances are potential dynamite & best avoided IMHO.

Cheers.

Slight difference between caustic soda and baking soda, they are also not suggesting immersing the whole boat in a baking soda solution.

Would you be happy to substitute caustic soda in a recipe that calls for baking soda????

Base Ph is bad on any aluminium - period, just in varying degrees, was the point - the vid just shows what happens, in an accelerated time span, when it's 'concentrated' form, is all.

In the same way I wouldn't substitute caustic soda with baking soda in cooking - I also wouldn't use cooking products for something they arent designed for - i.e. to clean an alloy boat.

I don't even allow household detergent, ANY where near my aluminium boat, but others mileage might admittedly vary.
The OP is well within his rights to do as he pleases.

I have no dog in this race - I'm not the one will end up going to sea in a colander or have his boat turn to white powder in the driveway and blow away in the wind.

Others mileage, obviously will vary .

To each his own.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Have a look at NZ Surtees boats they use a brushed aluminium finish with Nyalic coating. Nyalic, the worlds most advanced nylonic clear coat solution for marine, architectural and industrial corrosion protection

Quinnies are pretty reliable boats, nice choice. I would paint the inside though. Having had 2 pack epoxy on a Stingray plate alloy - never ever again - look great but a nightmare to protect from stone chips while towing.

I have never used this product, or even read its application instructions, & my post was definitely not a product recommendation. BUT I have seen their finished product and it looks quite good. How practical it might be to maintain - I have no idea.

Originally Posted by Timless Timber

Base Ph is bad on any aluminium - period, just in varying degrees, was the point - the vid just shows what happens, in an accelerated time span, when it's 'concentrated' form, is all.

In the same way I wouldn't substitute caustic soda with baking soda in cooking - I also wouldn't use cooking products for something they arent designed for - i.e. to clean an alloy boat.

I don't even allow household detergent, ANY where near my aluminium boat, but others mileage might admittedly vary.
The OP is well within his rights to do as he pleases.

I have no dog in this race - I'm not the one will end up going to sea in a colander or have his boat turn to white powder in the driveway and blow away in the wind.

Others mileage, obviously will vary .

To each his own.

The number of neutral fluids in the world is extremely small. The rest would be either acid or alkaline. You will have trouble avoiding both. You would likely be using your boat in alkaline water at times. "Base Ph is bad on any aluminium - period" is a fairly open ended statement.

Try repeating the alkaline test with bi carb. I believe that everyone should be free to make their own decisions but I also think that balanced information should be given.

A quote from Wikipedia. "Many laboratories keep a bottle of sodium bicarbonate powder within easy reach, because sodium bicarbonate is amphoteric, reacting with acids and bases. Furthermore, as it is relatively innocuous in most situations, there is no harm in using excess sodium bicarbonate."

pH of sodium bicarbonate. 8.3

pH of beer or wine. 4.0

I would be more worried about beer spillage. It is getting towards 1000 times more acidic than distilled water than bi carb is alkaline, in comparison.

Dean

thanks for shared ideas on this - some interesting thoughts and advice - all good food for thought and will help in the ultimate decision-making. And to think I always thought tinnies were fairly bullet proof!

Apparently Nyalic is used on most Aus coast guard and large rescue aluminium craft operating up and down most Aus coasts and has been for years. I am guessing that also has to be something one takes into account.

all the best
Sean

For what it's worth, my vessel depicted, was built as a W.A. Dept Transport (Marine) Search and Rescue Vessel, built in yr 2000 by Lauri Chivers. I understand the 'clear coat used was most likely the nyalac product.

I've depicted the vessel (in 2005 and then later 2008 etc) and now after 13 years - it's a lot worse than depicted above now (the measles effect under the clear coat).

If you were in WA - youd be welcome to come around and see firsthand what I am describing.

BUT

13 years is a pretty good effort for any form of clear coat on any vehicle or vessel to be honest.
Really my onw opinion is - that f you like shiny boats - buy a fiberglass or kevlar boat and if you want aluminium - accept that its best left untreated.
I understand that it's desirable to want to maintain the new shine on a new boat, for as long as possible.

At least you have a lot more info now to kick around - than you started out with.