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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Canberra
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    Default Releasing morse taper

    Hi,
    I have a Hare and Forbes HM-45 mill/drill and find myself swapping between the milling collet chuck and the drill chuck on a regular basis. Don’t have a pedestal drill yet.

    Currently I am tapping the draw-bar (after I have given it a few turns) lightly with a hammer to release the morse 3 taper.

    I don’t think this can be too good for the bearings etc. What is the method that should be used other than tapping to release the chucks?

    Regards,
    Jan

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Pambula
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    Default

    I know nothing about mill drills but my pedestal drill has a slot in the quill into which you insert a wedge shaped bit of steel that came with the drill. It rides against the top of the taper and a few taps of the hammer loosens the chuck.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    Warwick, QLD
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    Default

    As far as I know with the HM-45 that is how you get the MT out. Make sure you use either a soft faced mallet or a block of wood between the hammer and the draw-bar
    Have a nice day - Cheers

  5. #4
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    East Warburton, Vic
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    Default

    That is the common way to remove them, at my mates factory they use a bit of solid copper that's about an 1" dia and roughly 4" or 5" long as the striker
    Cheers

    DJ


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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Bundaberg, QLD
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    Default

    On An instructional video I watched, the instructor uses a spanner to give it a tap (Bridgeport Mill).

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Katherine ,Northern Territory
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    69
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    1,977

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jvdv View Post
    Hi,
    I have a Hare and Forbes HM-45 mill/drill and find myself swapping between the milling collet chuck and the drill chuck on a regular basis. Don’t have a pedestal drill yet.

    Currently I am tapping the draw-bar (after I have given it a few turns) lightly with a hammer to release the morse 3 taper.

    I don’t think this can be too good for the bearings etc. What is the method that should be used other than tapping to release the chucks?

    Regards,
    Jan
    Back the draw bar locking nut off half to a full turn and wack it with a copper hammer.
    It's normal practice . The downward force is applied to the morse taper not the bearings.

    Kev.
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
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    69
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    2,810

    Default

    You were not specific about things, but are you using the drawbar with the drill chuck?

    Unless you are doing very high load drilling, the drill chuck arbour should mount securely in the taper without a drawbar. Have done loads of 22mm holes through 12mm stainless with a 1.5 HP geared head drill at about 50RPM without loosing the arbour in the socket, plus 12 to 16mm with countersunk recesses. This machine was a 3MT without a tang on the top of the arbour. Could always rely on the downfeed pressere to keep the arbour in the socket. Remember that the chuck fits to the arbor with another taper that is only about 12mm long, and they rarely seperate.

    Probably would still need to tap to release the arbour, with a 12mm brass drift down the drawbar cavity, but you would not be transfering the shock via the threads on the drawbar.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    30

    Default Releasing morse taper

    I can confirm that there is a slot in the quill and I have found the wedge shape piece of steel that can be used to release the taper for the drill chuck arbor. This arbor is one of the ones with a tang on the end and I don’t use the drawbar on it.

    The milling chuck arbor is tang-less and therefore shorter compared to the arbor on the drill chuck. The existing wedge is therefore not suitable for releasing the morse taper after milling. I will continue using the tapping method.

    Thanks for all the feedback.

  10. #9
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    Aug 2003
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    OK, so I was half right.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    There are several ways. If there is a wedge hole, use that. Otherwise, you can sometimes use a wedge (or screwdriver) between the spindle and the chuck body. Or there is the general method of wacking with a hammer, buffered by a piece of hard wood. For stuburn ones, I sometimes prop the drill body on a piece of wood.

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