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3rd June 2015, 07:55 PM #1
Removing a Broke Circlip /C-clip From Spindle
I need to disassemble a spindle for a drill press. However the problem is that the c-clip is broken, I had a look online on how to remove the C-clip and the methods are rather drastic involving grinding into the c-clip with an angle grinder, does anyone have a less dramatic solution? Here are two photos:
0 - 9.jpg0 - 8.jpg
Basically it would involve cutting off the morse taper and then using a cut off wheel to grind into the top edge of the spindle and cutting into the c-clip into two pieces. Is there a better way?
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3rd June 2015 07:55 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd June 2015, 08:21 PM #2
Two pointy objects should be able to maneuver one end past the lip then prise it up and grab it with vice grips and rip it out. It's already damaged so it doesn't matter if you mangle the circlip.
I've just had another look at the photo. It is an internal circlip isn't it? Missing the eyes that the circlip pliers go into?Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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3rd June 2015, 08:27 PM #3I break stuff...
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Depends on what tools you have, and the steel the circlip is made of - sometimes you can just get onto the broken ends with a screwdriver or pick well enough to get them out.
Failing that, you could try and drill a small hole into the circlip to allow you to stick a pin punch or similar in, then lever that. Depends on how good your drill bits are, and/or how hard the steel of the circlip is. Dremel with a carbide burr could also possibly be used, depending on access.
A really steady hand with a tig welder could also tack some little tangs onto the circlip...
But to keep it really simple, and a little rough - you don't need to cut the morse taper off at all. Assuming the spindle isn't hardened up there, drill a hole from the outside in to the back of the circlip (near an end of the circlip, and in the same plane as the circlip groove), stop when you reach the circlip. Then you should be able to knock the end out of its groove with a small punch. You generally only need to get one end out, then you can get the rest by using a screwdriver behind it and working around to the other end. Of course, if its hardened, you'll have to grind a slot instead (vertically on the spindle, not horizontal!), but no need to cut the taper off still.
*edit* If the circlip isn't too hard, a sharp centre punch could be used to tap it out too - first centre punch as close to the end as you can, then lean the punch over on a decent angle, like you're trying to punch the side of your first centre mark.
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3rd June 2015, 08:31 PM #4Philomath in training
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Tony's suggestion is probably the best way at it - it's the way I'd do it too. It will probably take some time though to get it out as the bit left there will more than likely want to rotate around in the groove. A small dot of superglue on one end may help anchor things. (Don't flood it or you will never get it out - super glue is weakened with heat and dissolves in acetone if you over do it or the last bit sticks when you don't want it to.)
Michael
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3rd June 2015, 10:31 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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I've used the two pointed tool trick several times to get out of trouble, some how I always get the job, that someone else butchers up
Sometimes, if it won't move, try using a small punch and hammer to tap it around a bit, to break the seal.
2 small screwdrivers worked around the inside, works also
Kryn
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4th June 2015, 07:49 PM #6
Thanks for the advice, today I took two hours of prodding and pocking (and breaking various small pocking tools) to finally get the bugger out. However it is done, I want to replace the bearings, while there was no wobble there was a gritty sound coming from the quill and the spindle and while I have easy access to it all I might as well replace the bearings.
You can see my Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP here.
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