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Thread: Rf40 update

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Default Rf40 update

    I have bought this table on Ebay for the RF40 it is in good condition except for no handles and some heavy gouges in the table which didn't damage the tee slots luckily.
    Would you guys fit the 40's head on to the shorter post of the table OR cut down the base of the table[cutoff where the post bolts too] to fit onto the 40's table which would make it near impossible to wind up with the extra weight.
    Also I have never owned or used a mill before and the first tooling I was thinking of buying is a Clamp set/ Boring Bar and a Collet Set, is a vice important when starting out or can that wait, I can buy a s/h 8 inch for $200 it looks to big for the table and must weigh 40 kilo's but bigger is best isn't it.
    I am in my 60's and just discovered this wonderful world of metal machining and envy you guys and girls who have been doing it for years, I will just get it all sorted and then fall off the perch.
    Any idea's would be much appreciated Thank You
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Default

    Hi
    Whitey,

    I bought my first mill just over a year ago so I'm not that far ahead of you! If you first have a go at attaching your existing head to the column you just bought, it may be the simplest method. Also starting off this way you can always go back to the start cause you haven't cut anything up. When it comes to modifying or changing stuff, I always try to make mods than can (if possible) be returned to their original, that way if I stuff up or I don't like it I have a fall back position.

    If you don't like how that works out THEN have a go at cutting stuff but bare in mind that the table on your original machine will be getting very heavy as it will be a table on a table and thats without any workpiece but have already thought of that!

    As for the vice, with many projects you can live without a vice and certainly when starting out you can make do without. But, you will need one eventually. As for bigger is better, well to a certain extent but bare in mind your vice really should be in proportion to your machine AND don't forget you will have to lift it on and off your table. These things only seem to get heavier. For $200 I think you could keep looking for a smaller one. You shouldn't have too much trouble buying a smaller vice with that amount of $

    This is just my opinion, you need to do what best suites you.

    Good luck and keep us up to date.

    PS I'm sure you got plenty of good swarf making years ahead of you!
    PPS I love your Dodgy earth wire!
    Simon

  4. #3
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    Do you need the extra throat size that you have at the moment with the drill?

    If you were to place the XY table on your existing table you would be placing a lot of extra strain on the existing table.

    Does your drill head raise and lower or is it fixed?
    If it raises and lowers you may be able to get away with placing the XY on the existing table,but the existing table would need a sturdy support under it to support the extra weight.

    Is the diameter of your drill column the same size as the column that came with the XY table?
    If so your better option may be to remove your drill head and put it on the column of the XY table.
    In regards to big vices being better,it depends on a few things,the size of the jobs you will do,the amount of working room the vice will still allow,the weight of the vice.

    If you just go at present with a clamp kit you may be limited to how you hold something while you machine it,or how much of a surface you can machine without having to remove clamps.

  5. #4
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    Dec 2011
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    Hi Simonl and Pipeclay
    I will set it up on the shorter shorter column they are both 115mm dia to see how it goes, there is a hole where the VFD is mounted for the winding gear and if I shorten the rack by 300mm it's an easy change over.
    Simon I presume it's the wire to the motor base your talking about, I had a earth fault in the VFD and my Electrican ran that wire as a test and we left it there, it still has a earth through the cable.
    I did not think i would find a table like this and was resigned to buying the small tables that H&F sells but i won this for about the same dollars so i'm happy.
    Are you guys using any Chinese tooling what do you think of it.

    Thank you for your replys

  6. #5
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    Most of the tooling I use is Chinese,I find it performs the tasks for which it was intended.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitey56 View Post
    Are you guys using any Chinese tooling what do you think of it.
    Do you like a punt?

    Edit: To expand, I reckon my disappointment rate is at least 30%, maybe 40%.

  8. #7
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    Hi Whitey,

    A lot of my tooling is Chinese. Indeed all the tooling I have bought is indeed Chinese. They include ER32, ER40 collet set, Boring head, Face miller MT adapters and both my mill and lathe are Chinese. I have found them to be more capable than me!

    I certainly feel the difference between a Chinese machine and a more expensive Taiwanese, Japanese or European machine but the more I use my cheaper machine the more I learn about it and enjoy using it and the more I like it.

    I have found them to be a good compromise between cost and quality.

    Cheers,

    Simon

  9. #8
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    Default Tooling

    hi Whitey

    In my limited experience , the Chinese tooling performs very well . I have used the ER32 collets and the end mills and a indexable face mill without any problems . I bought a new cheap 5" 3 jaw chuck from CDCO , I had a few issues with it to start with, but I'm now getting .002 runout consistantly .

    Mike

  10. #9
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    Hi, I've also bought Chinese tooling including ER32 collet holders and collets, 1/2" keyless chuck, boring bars, QCTP and many more bits and pieces. I've been generally very pleased with the quality that I've got, considering the the price paid. I've not yet received a total dud.
    The first step towards knowledge is to know that we are ignorant.

  11. #10
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    Dec 2011
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    Thanks to everybody for their input looks like it's Chinese tooling for me too.
    Simon I noticed in another post you have M/t4 tooling did you buy local or o/s and does it have M16 drawbar thread, I would think your mill would be 1/2 inch or M12 if so how did you get around this.Thanks

  12. #11
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    Hi Whitey,

    Perhaps I got lucky but my drawbar is M16. So far every peice of tooling I have bought has also had M16 drawbar thread so no problems. All my tooling (so far) I bought through CTC tools. Like I said earlier, I have not had issues getting tooling for MT4 but I also do not have high demands for extensive tooling, only the basics seem to do me for now.

    Cheers,

    Simon

  13. #12
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    Default tools

    Quote Originally Posted by whitey56 View Post
    Thanks to everybody for their input looks like it's Chinese tooling for me too.
    Simon I noticed in another post you have M/t4 tooling did you buy local or o/s and does it have M16 drawbar thread, I would think your mill would be 1/2 inch or M12 if so how did you get around this.Thanks
    I bought the R8 spindle mill tooling from CDCO .. www.cdcotools.com He ( Frank ? ) was very reliable and honest to deal with . I don't know what he is like these days as I've read some reports saying he isn't so reliable any more ? But you cannot beat his prices . He really crams as much as he can into a USPS standard postal box .



    Mike

  14. #13
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    Whitey, draw bars aren't hard to make. I've got several in both M16 and 5/8 (and in different lengths too).

    Michael

  15. #14
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    I've also recently bought a couple of times from CTC and Frank has been prompt and reliable. On one occasion, he forgot to include an item that was supposed to be in my order but he appologised and immediately refunded the money for that item.
    The first step towards knowledge is to know that we are ignorant.

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