Thread: DM 45 table stops

Cool, I need a new gold watch.

Mine is a ZX45 but I'm sure the stop will fit

Attachment 198362

The grizzly machines come with it mounted like in the picture below. I am going to copy this design, mine is half way there, LOL.

Dave

Ok

I like the Grizzly setup. I will have a look and work out if a setup like that will fit on the DM45 ..

thanks MIKE

You could always use a piece of aluminium channel as it's available in all different sizes. The only thing I am doing different to them is to have the stop on the saddle at the front, so it brings the whole lot forward and is easier to get to.

Dave

this stuff would be ideal .. they do mail orders and its an Australian store

Veritas® 1/4" T-slot Tracks : CARBA-TEC

I found some 12mm X 3 aluminium angle and screws it together to form a box section . Then, I roughly milled a slot in it and turned up two knurled stops

Not enough room under there to drill and tap holes, I used a adhesive to hold it on, will do for now .

The screw driver is there til the adhesive goes off .

Mike

Mike,

Go gentle when working the table up to the stop. Flex can cause a lack of repeatability. Happens on my mills and they have substantial tee slots incorporated in the castings.

BT

Hi Mike,
Looks good and that was quick, do you want to come around to my place and finish a few things for me, LOL
Just make sure whatever is clamping it each side of the channel is reasonable in size, otherwise it will dent the aluminium if it's small. Is that a part of the way wiper on the right?
If you have any problems with the stop itself moving because it's glued on, I see there are 2 bolt hole in the saddle you could use to bolt one on.

I welded mine up out of steel because it's a really small spot where I want it, but thats as far as I have got. I think I still know where it is.

Dave

hi Dave

Thanks . It's really a stop gap thing as I urgently need a y axis stop for projects I'm in the middle of doing , I am making Harold Halls boring head and his dividing head fixture . Simple projects to practice on . I will do a better y axis stop later on when I strip the machine down .

In the H 1 gear, about 500rpm, my Dm45 makes worrying rattling noises from somewhere in the gearbox , it needs investigating one day . The rattle changes pitch when the spindle is under load

The DM45 is covered in a thick layer of bog filler over the castings . I have .0005" runout on the R8 spindle end .

I use liquid nails as the adhesive ..I glued my old Land Rover together with that stuff ,its very strong stuff and I've never had a failure with it yet .

Mike

I think it's a toss up between fitting all new bearings and seals to these mills, or going to the trouble to belt drive it and be done with it. With a VFD you would only need 5 speeds to keep the torque range right for different speeds.

I think every Chinese machine is covered with bog, they must go through some, LOL
The only difference I suppose is how thick it is on different machines. Maybe one day they will make a tool like a stud finder and you can go to the shop and check how one machine compares to another.

With the spindle you maybe able to use it to your advantage. If you mark the spindle with a white marker, and then test each tool in the spindle for the truest running spot and mark them as well, you might be able to get them running pretty true. Just like you do with a lathe chuck.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

With the spindle you maybe able to use it to your advantage. If you mark the spindle with a white marker, and then test each tool in the spindle for the truest running spot and mark them as well, you might be able to get them running pretty true. Just like you do with a lathe chuck.

Dave

Dave

Yes, I have noticed that if you rotate a morse or R8 arbor , you can find the 'sweet spot' where the runout is zero . I need to find a permanent marker that won't rub off after it gets oily . What do you use ?

I think a circlip or something has come loose in the gearbox .... it rattles at a certain speed . It may fall out and jam in gear , then the whole thing will become metal fragments .

Yes , belt drive is definately smoother setup . I would like to be able to rest a 20 cent piece on the head of the machine while its running ! 50 cents is too easy

The VFD will be here soon, then I will pull down the gearbox and do a new motor .

MIKE

Originally Posted by morrisman

Dave

Yes, I have noticed that if you rotate a morse or R8 arbor , you can find the 'sweet spot' where the runout is zero . I need to find a permanent marker that won't rub off after it gets oily . What do you use ?

MIKE

Hi Mike,

I have done a similar thing with my faceplate on the lathe. I have marked one of the D1-4 cam locations on both the faceplate and the spindle with a spring loaded centre punch after I faced it. So now when I use the faceplate I always put it back in the same location. Not sure if other people do this or if they do it with their 3 jaw, not sure. But my faceplate definitely has a sweet spot after I machined the face in that position.

Simon

Mike,do you remove your drive pin/key when you talk about rotateing an R8 arbor or are your talking about turning the tooling in an R8 collet chuck.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Mike,do you remove your drive pin/key when you talk about rotateing an R8 arbor or are your talking about turning the tooling in an R8 collet chuck.

I turn the ER collet a bit in its tapered seat . We are talking about tiny tolerances , less than one thou . I don't know if it makes any difference to the finished work piece at the end of the day . The machine probably vibrates more than a thou anyway . Mike