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Thread: Slotting - A Rough Attempt
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8th January 2011, 03:51 PM #31Dave J Guest
I wouldn't worry about it Bob it will wear in quick enough.
If you wanted to you could always add a bit of lapping compound, let it run for a few minutes and then clean it off.
Dave
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8th January 2011 03:51 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th January 2011, 04:21 PM #32.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
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- Perth WA
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Indexing
Boys,
It wouldn't have been an original idea, I'm bound to have lifted it from some clever fellow elsewhere.
The only bit of cleverness I might have displayed was realising that the drill press table could be used to support the Vertex. I used a piece of pipe and a scaffold screw jack to provide vertical adjustment, albeit in a rough fashion. You'll notice the brass shim used for fine tuning.
I had toyed with the idea of making a bracket that would enable me to fit the little Hercus dividing head to the mandrel like this. I have not proceeded past the toying stage.
Bob.
ps. That piece of masonite has sure proved it's worth!
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8th January 2011, 04:29 PM #33.
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- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
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- Posts
- 5,650
it will wear in quick enough
Thank you Dave,
That's all the convincing I need.
Can you tell me a bit more about lapping compound?
I've heard about it but never used it. The closest, maybe, that I've used might be valve grinding paste and that can lead to some stressful, sweat ridden moments when parts seize together.
Bob.
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8th January 2011, 06:13 PM #34Dave J Guest
I have heard guys talk about lapping compound that doesn't get embedded into the metal, but all I used a few years back in the cross slide of my lathe was the smooth end of the valve grinding past.
The lathe cross slide always had a tight spot when I wound it towards me, so I lapped the right (gib side) of it and got a great improvement. I did this side of it so I didn't take away any accuracy as it faced near perfect.
The way I used was mixing it with a bit of oil so it was wet, that may take away your problem of it seizing. I just nipped up the gib tight so I could just move it, then slide the cross slide back and forth about 10-20 times, cleaned and checked, then did the process again until I felt an improvement, which I did after about 3 or 4 goes from memory. When I was finished I just made sure I cleaned it throughly with degreaser and a green kitchen scourer.
That was a few years back and I haven't noticed the valve grinding compound to have embedded into the ways and keep cutting as I don't have to adjust the gib any more than usual for a lathe.
Here are a couple of links to manufactures selling the compounds and give a good description of what their for and what they do.
Lapping Compound
Clover lapping compounds and grinding compound, clover brand, clover, fel-pro, felpro, lapping compounds, lapping paste
And here is a video of a guy using one of the above products, with the guy belows procedure.
Clover lapping compounds and grinding compound, clover brand, clover, fel-pro, felpro, lapping compounds, lapping paste
This one is from a guy using mag wheel polish, which I think would only take off a small amount.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6GIqhXcTh8]YouTube - Lapping Cross & Compound Slide Lathe Ways[/ame]
As to availability over here, it is probably like everything else and is hard to get, or is over the top with price.
Dave
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