Thread: Starter band saw recommendation

Al can be cut at wood type speeds (but steel shouldn't be), so rather than a bandsaw for your tube, I'd suggest a wood working drop saw or something similar with a carbide blade. One of the problems with bandsaws and Al is you would need a fine tooth blade for the tube walls that would tend to clog with chips (if you are running dry as most of the cheaper saws do).
You might have to buy a separate saw for steel later.

Michael

I've heard that a drop saw would create more burs and metal shavings. This is a home based saw with cats around so wondering if this is true. Thanks.

Get yourself a cheep secondhand electric hacksaw

Hah. I have a decent hacksaw but I would like something a little quicker that cuts straighter, and that my assistant (aka my girlfriend) could also use.

HI,
If You are going to do Light Production Work then I would go for either of these Bandsaws https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B009 or https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B003 . If You are going to do light to Medium Production Work and are going to be Cutting a bit of Steel then this one should be suffice https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B006 . Just a note Hare & Forbes do have a 3 Day Sale Coming up, You can download the Sale Flyer here https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Events . You don't have to stick to Hare & Forbes there are plenty of other Dealers out there.
I use to have a Bandsaw which was the same as the Hafco BS-5, it was a good Bandsaw to use. Once I got a Metal lathe and started Cutting a fair bit of Solid Steel especially Steel above 19mm (3/4") Diameter I found it inadequate. I had the oppurtunity to Buy a Parkanson Power Hacksaw 150mm x 150mm (6" x 6") capacity so I did. I haven't regretted Buying the hacksaw although at times a Bandsaw of at least a B006 would be nice.
I just Re Read Your Post again the BS-5 or the BS-5S should be fine.

If it's all strait cuts, a small one like in the link below will do a great job and is cheap. I have one and cut anything on it from small aluminum strip to 100mm + solid steel and it leaves very little burr's. Something to think about is the cost of blades and these ones can be had for $11 each or but 10 get on free for $110, and they come in 18, 14 and 6 for wood work. For doing your job you will be better off with the 18.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B002

Dave

I have a metal cutting bandsaw but I still cut 99% of my ally with a woodworking table saw. It's quick and accurate.

My BIL builds ally boats up to 42' long by himself and uses a WW drop saw.

Just make sure you use a full face shield and a balaclava, the swarf is like mini razor blades when it goes down the collar of a short. There are no burs just a sharp cut.

Hi skiffle,
To go just a little OT, How many fire staffs do you get from a length? If there arent to long I have an idea for your bandsaw(if you get one) that may interest you.

Stuart

Even more off-topic, what's a firestaff? and what do you use it for? (starting fires)

Got a picture?

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Even more off-topic, what's a firestaff? and what do you use it for? (starting fires)

Got a picture?

Regards
Ray

Staff car as in army vehicle: the staff is the vertical pole that mounts on the front bumber or wing , the generals flag or pennant is attached to it . Flagstaff: = the pole that the flag sits atop of. I'm guessing a firestaff is a marker of some kind ? MIKE

Originally Posted by Michael G

Al can be cut at wood type speeds (but steel shouldn't be), so rather than a bandsaw for your tube, I'd suggest a wood working drop saw or something similar with a carbide blade. One of the problems with bandsaws and Al is you would need a fine tooth blade for the tube walls that would tend to clog with chips (if you are running dry as most of the cheaper saws do).
You might have to buy a separate saw for steel later.

Michael

I used to use my high speed drop saw (with an Al suitable blade), and it did a fantastic job - except it creates a hell of a mess with the chips going everywhere. The blade will blunt after a while (I did a lot of cutting) which means more burrs and also more chance of the blade grabbing - so regular blade sharpening is recommended if you go this way.

I bought the BS-4A band saw and it cuts neatly, is quiet and doesn't make a mess. So personally, this is my recommendation.

Cheers

- Mick