Thread: Steel Block Needed

I would try a heavy welding/fabrication works, for an offcut..

Hi Dale,

I'll keep an eye open for you. But first port of call should be the local scrap dealers. The local one here used to let you wander around the yard, but not anymore. There's one in Echuca... and I think there are some around Melbourne.

You'll pay by the kg. I think the price is pretty standard.

Good to hear you are getting into blacksmithing..

Ray

I have tried two waterjet places to see if I could find a slug with no luck. I'm not too familiar with what is local in my new area.

G/day DSEL74, my bro inlaw profile cuts thick stuff, maybe he might have to slice off a chunk when he has the right size plate out or he might have chunk you can use, I don't have a clue about cost so give him a call, ask for Mick, he is in Bayswater

Bob Haslam Engineering

(03) 9762 7155

I made my first tongs from the 9" end of some bits of reo. These are hammer making tongs and the first step in the program.

Tongs1.jpgTongs2.jpg

Good work in the tongs. Looking forward to seeing more progress.

Originally Posted by shedhappens

G/day DSEL74, my bro inlaw profile cuts thick stuff, maybe he might have to slice off a chunk when he has the right size plate out or he might have chunk you can use, I don't have a clue about cost so give him a call, ask for Mick, he is in Bayswater

Bob Haslam Engineering

(03) 9762 7155

Spoke to Mick and I'll go down on Monday to see if there is anything suitable on the scrap pile. He's not sure what is there but I may get lucky.

Hi Dale,

I like your tongs, what in particular about that shape makes them "hammer making tongs" ?

Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Dale,

I like your tongs, what in particular about that shape makes them "hammer making tongs" ?

Ray

They are light springy tongs, and the shape of the jaws allows the tips to sit in the eye and also allows you to flip/pivot/swing the material held between each blow to keep the work uniform. The triangular shape of the opening allows the clearance for this. The scroll tips enable the rotation of the work.



Utube video making them and explains how the work…..….Ignore his reference to measurements they are way off, he doesn't know imperial well.

Nice work on those tongs

Originally Posted by DSEL74

. . . What I need to find is a piece of scrap steel that is 10" x 6" and 3" thick or close to it to make my striking anvil. This differs from a regular anvil as it is used with a smith and a striker/strikers all bashing on it with a sledge hammer. This can break a regular anvil off at the hardie hole should someone have a wayward strike.

I guess that depends on why you mean by a "regular anvil" as this should only be a problem with a small/cheap anvil. If the anvil is big enough and/or of appropriate quality this should not happen. At the smithing classes I attended we team belted the carp out of stuff on hardy holes. Being novices we missed many many times .

The hardie hole is punched and drifted square, which will be fun in it self.

Yes it will be fun manoeuvring such a big piece in and out of a forge!

[QUOTE}Any ideas or suggestions on where to find suitable scrap or what could be repurposed into the striking anvil??[//QUOTE]
At the steel sellers I frequent the thicker/bigger the piece the less likely it is that it will be on the scrap pile.
The biggest stuff I have seen in the recent past is about a year ago they had 50 mm thick discs up to about 450 mm in diameter on the scrap pile - plenty of weight in it (~62 kg) but no straight edges so probably not that useful as an anvil.

regular anvil I mean a London Pattern Anvil. I have done striking in one also. that doesn't mean you aren't risking damage. my mentor has three busted anvil one missing the beak & 2 split at the hardies hole. All are well known quality firewelded iron anvils. He also has 5 in good condition. Me I can't find a cheap anvil so mine will be an allrounder.

Today I picked up two blocks of steel one for an anvil (Similar to 4140) and one for a striking anvil (probably 1020). Both are plugs from a plasmacutting place (Thanks Shedhappens).

DSC_0184.jpgDSC_0185.jpgDSC_0187.jpg
The one I will use as an anvil is 445mm long 122-180 wide (one edge is profile cut not straight so width varies) and 185mm thick, weighs approx 70kg.




In relation to the striking anvil which is 60mm (2 3/8")Thick and has a bullnose edge along the longest face of 370mm (approx 14 1/4"). I'm wondering where the best position for the hardie holes would be? I am planning to have two differing size hardie holes, 1" hole and a 1 1/4" Hole
Striking Plate Ai.jpg

I have shown 4 holes in my drawing but I would select only two of those to actually put in the plate, question is which position:
I could have one at each end near the 65mm Flat edges, or two down near the 90mm Flat edge.
I like them down near the 90mm wide flat edge, but does this disadvantage me by leaving only the two shorter 60mm flat edges to work off and the long one that is bullnosed?
Is having the holes inset only 25mm (1") from the edges enough??


Should I have a pritchel hole and where?
Your thoughts and advice appreciated................


My only other concern is will the plasma cutting have affected the hardness of the steel??

dsel74 the steel that is "similar to 4140" is likely 1050, that stuff would have been oxy/acet or oxy/lpg cut and it would have air cooled so other than the cut zone it shouldn't be too hard and should machine ok.
Welding it is another story tho, off the top of my head it is likely you will need low hydrogen rods, preheat to maybe 400-450 celcius, weld and slow cool in sand.
It would be a good idea to check with mick to know what you are playing with.

shed

dsel74
watched Daniel make thong tongs and followed that link back to you tube and watched him making a 3lb hammer which raises a few questions and comments

1. Have'nt they heard of grinders and or friction saws to cut the steel
2. why use round and make it square when you can buy square
3. have'nt they heard of bunnings where one can buy a 3lb hammer
4. Geez Daniel had easy when making that hammer...the poor little guy on the end of sledge did all the work...



great stuff
I am suprised by Daniels appeared age and hence his knowledge and skills and also the strikers accuracy with that sledge when making the hammer considering he looked even younger.


ps keep this upto date with lots of pics