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5th November 2013, 10:21 AM #1
Steel plate orientation when cutting on a bandsaw.
Steel plate orientation when cutting on a bandsaw.
Someone told me that if I'm cutting say a 10mm by 100mm steel plate, that instead of standing it up so that the saw was cutting through the height of 100mm, that I should in fact have it laying down and the blade will last longer.
This doesn't make sense to me, but is he correct?
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5th November 2013 10:21 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th November 2013, 10:27 AM #2Senior Member
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Don't really know, but my instinct is that if you cut on the edge each tooth is working as it goes past. If you cut on the flat the teeth are more rubbing than cutting.
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5th November 2013, 10:31 AM #3I break stuff...
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Yes, laying it flat is generally considered to be the correct way to do it. Never made much sense to me either, but yesterday I was cutting a piece of 10 x 80mm aluminium in the coldsaw, standing on edge (being lazy). I noticed it seemed to be chattering a bit during the cut, as the jaws don't hold it right next to the blade, so the unclamped end is free to vibrate a bit. I would be guessing this is the reason for cutting it laying flat, as the cutting force is then applied perpendicular to the longer side, which of course requires far more force to be deflected. As with all machine tools, rigidity in setup is key!
Also, if you are running a fairly coarse TPI on your blade, you may not have the recommended number of teeth in the cut at once when the plate is standing on edge?
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5th November 2013, 11:18 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Yes, if you are working for a living and have the correct TPI for 100mm then lay it down. I'd be surprised if you do.
Standing it up with to course a pitch* isnt good for the blade, but laying it down with to fine a blade isnt good either as the gullet fills up. and the swarf rolls along in it(or trys to), you'll get through in the end though.
For 10mm as long as you have more than 10tpi I'd say you'll be fine. As long as you carefully control feed you can get away with even less if you have to, I've cut 2mm on a 9-14(?) blade,,,,,,,, but dont tell anyone.
The world isnt always perfect.
Lay it down and walk away has an appeal all of its own.
Stuart
*this inculdes were the blade is joined.
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5th November 2013, 11:40 AM #5
If your cutting say 50x6 lay it down, it will chatter. But i agree with Stu, anything over 10mm with the standard 14tpi blades its much faster to stand it up. With stuff that is too wide if you stand it up it will chatter due to the size of the vice. I have found for wide pieces lying it "flat" but angling it from the top of the fixed jaw to the bottom of the moving jaw gives you the best of both worlds.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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5th November 2013, 01:31 PM #6.
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Standing up is more likely to take the blade off the wheels on my BS so I usually lay mine down.
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5th November 2013, 07:23 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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I clamp wide stuff at an angle, neither standing up nor flat, maybe 30 deg from horizontal. That way you get more teeth in the cut, but not too many.
Rule of thumb is - IIRC - minimum of 3 teeth in the cut or you risk stripping them off.
PDW
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5th November 2013, 07:59 PM #8Philomath in training
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5th November 2013, 09:22 PM #9
Where I work part of the job is to cut up welder procedure and welder qualification coupon plates.
Initially we wore out a few bandsaw blades prematurely due to poor run in procedures and cutting plate section in the wrong orientation.
I contacted the blades manufacturers-in this case TK.Morse -and found out that too many teeth in the cut overheats and blunts the blade edges.
Coupons come in tee sections as well as flat butt section with the result that coupons could be fitted to the jaws presenting as a inclined cut for the tee pieces.
I found butts cut well when presented vertically to the blade. at times they will vibrate if the thickness to height relationship is too great. Some blades ,we only managed 15 or 20 cuts from when the butt coupons were placed in the jaws in a flat flat orientation.
Since changing to a vertically orientated position the blade has lasted over 30 cuts and still cutting well at the last job. Being a large industrial band saw Industrial coolant -Rocol Ultracut 5%- was used at all times.
Hope it helps
Grahame
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5th November 2013, 09:29 PM #10I've cut 2mm on a 9-14(?) blade,www.lockwoodcanvas.com.au
I will never be the person who has everything, not when someone keeps inventing so much cool new stuff to buy.
From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
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5th November 2013, 09:47 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Hi there,
The rule of thumb according to the manufacturer of my BS blade is a maximum of 6- 8 teeth in the cut at once. With my latest project, a sheet folder I have had need to exceed both recomendations in terms of minimum or maximum No. of teeth due to the need to cut some big pieces of steel. I too have experienced real problems with cutting large sections laying down with too fine a blade where the cut clogs with swarf and places so much strain on the blade that it jumps off the wheels. Luckily I have 2 blades, a (approx) 8 TPI that it came with and a 10/14 TPI. Lately I have found myself using the 8 TPI because if I take care, I can use it for both situations. As Stuart says, if you are very careful with your downfeed, you can cut some reasonably thin stuff with a (relatively) coarse blade. The 10/14 M42 bimetal is awsome but try cutting anything wider than about 150mm and it's touch & go. I've used the 8 to cut 10mm plate and while it does not like it, due care and attention will usually see me through. What makes this practise even more dodgy is the fact that the blade is missing a couple of teeth and it's quite obvious when that part of the blade passes over the material
I have also used all sorts of steel pieces and spacers to fill out the vice jaws to enable better clamping when I employ questionable cutting practises! I always stand clear of the blade and the material though.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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5th November 2013, 10:19 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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7th November 2013, 08:08 PM #13Senior Member
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lay it down and use a coarser blade . If you stand it up it could vibrate and chatter even with a fine blade until it gets down but by then it could have run off the cut. The less the bandsaw arm has to travel to complete the cut the better . 100 x10 is fairly rigid and not that high so you could edge cut it but it may make a bit of extra noise .
The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.
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7th November 2013, 09:16 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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8th November 2013, 06:53 AM #15Philomath in training
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