Needs Pictures: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 29
Thread: SteelFast Bandsaw
-
12th June 2014, 09:03 PM #1Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 31
SteelFast Bandsaw
Hi There
I have recently bought a Steelfast bandsaw and I am looking for some general info or other owners to share information with. I have seen an earlier post on the subject which did not get very far.
I gather that they are not super rare as I have seen at least 2others for sale in the last 6 months.
My saw seems in reasonable shape apart from the fact that the frame has been cut and extended 6"! Not sure if I will unmodify it or just use as is. I have a bit of clean up work to do and as yet have not run it so I need to get my priorities in order. I intend to restore and repaint it in the original colour if possible.
It has a two speed gearbox and a 4 step belt drive pulley, so it is suitable for both wood and metal
Any info would be appreciated, more for interest than anything.
Cheers
Peter
-
12th June 2014 09:03 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
12th June 2014, 11:18 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Wimmera
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 363
hi Peter
I have 2 and im very happy with them one is in need of quite a bit of attention
mostly use them for steel some times wood and on the odd occasion skin
cheers harty
-
13th June 2014, 06:35 AM #3Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 31
Hi Harty
thanks for the reply.
Do you have any recommendations for blade types for steel, ie number of teeth?
What sort of life would you get out of a blade and do you run the saw at the slowest speed?
I know this is all dependent on the type and thickness of material being cut, but would be interested to know what your setup is. Do you have a photo available of your bandsaws?
I know- lots of questions, feel free to answer any or none.
Hope you have kept track of all your fingers!
Cheers
Pete
-
13th June 2014, 09:14 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 2,680
-
13th June 2014, 09:24 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 2,951
-
13th June 2014, 09:54 AM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Wimmera
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 363
warning graphic image
Hi Peter
I use a 14 tpi blade for steel and run it with the gearbox engaged blades last a long time
aluminium i usually use the wood blade at full speed with a bit of wax for lube
most stuff i cut is thinner than 1/2 inch as i have a big horizontal bandsaw for that
i will take some pics on the weekend for you
last week skin and tendon still in a sling and splint
thumb.jpg
lt took a fraction if a second
cheers
harty
-
13th June 2014, 10:19 AM #7.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
I have used one in the past and recently scored one for our mens shed. They are very good for sheet metal and I remember even (slowly) cutting a reasonably accurate curve in some 5/16" thick steel plate with one. I think horizontal bandsaws are more useful for bar and tube mainly because they can be left running and they can be more easily set up with a recirculating coolant/lube system which really lengthen the life of blades. For ally I use my wood cutting bandsaw running it at the slowest speed or my table saw with a negative raked teeth and using wax as a lube.
-
13th June 2014, 10:49 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 2,680
-
13th June 2014, 10:57 AM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Wimmera
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 363
yes it did hurt
advice dont crown the wheels on a bandsaw with the blade on and running no matter how much faster you think it will be
just a slight laps in concentration at a critical time
cheers
Harty
-
13th June 2014, 11:01 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 2,680
-
13th June 2014, 01:41 PM #11Distracted Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Lower Lakes SA
- Age
- 58
- Posts
- 2,557
-
13th June 2014, 01:51 PM #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Wimmera
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 363
-
13th June 2014, 02:30 PM #13.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
I once worked with a guy who would not stop talking and we said this would get him into trouble and sure enough one day in the workshop he cut his thumb off (we reckon without even realising it) with a bandsaw while cutting up wood. The cut was almost at the same point as the one in harty's photo. There was blood everywhere and they rushed him off to hospital but forgot to take the thumb with them. By the time the went back to look the bloodied pile of sawdust had been cleaned up and although the looked everywhere they could not find the thumb. Now the downside for this guy was that when he did stop talking he was a very good harpist but it seemed that a missing thumb would put paid to that but no. After several painful years of playing he developed a callus on the end of his thumb stump that enabled him to play, not quite as well but still play. He eventually became a harp tester and adviser to people wanting to purchase antiquarian harps.
But he still rarely stopped talking.
-
13th June 2014, 04:23 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 2,680
-
13th June 2014, 06:02 PM #15Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Boronia Australia
- Posts
- 44
A very good little machine
Hi All
I aquired a Steel Fast band saw a while ago, think it cost $50-00 but it had a broken neck, obviously someone trying to lift it. Once welded up and reinforced I found the usual klunk in the gearbox, very common with these machines as I often used one at work back in the 60s. The thickest material I ever cut was around 36" of 1 1/2" thick mild steel plate, took quite a while but so did lots of things back then. The clunk is caused by the very large gear keyed to quite a small shaft, the shaft is hardened but the gear is only cast iron. Its an easy fix just a new keyway in the gear and a little locktite, I also added a couple of threaded extraction holes in the gear. I got myself a supply of blades from Bandsaw supplies.com.au in Sydney they come delivered to the door which saves a lot of trouble and work well, as I havent worn one out yet.
Even though I have a chinese horizontal saw I now wonder how I survived without the vertical, it has done heeps of work recently, cutting everything from 10mm to bits of sheet metal. However I always use push sticks, in fact there are a couple in permanent residence on the saw table. I will add a few pictures if i can sort out how, unfortunately I must have been in a hurry as I dont have any of the finished machine, it is now all green.
I also use automotive sae 90 gear oil in the gear box.
I hope this is some help, but please ask questions as the memory needs a jog from time to time.
Ray.
RayBandsaw gearbox assembled.jpgBandsaw gearbox.jpgBandsaw gearbox2.jpgBandsaw gearbox3.jpgDrive complete.jpgDrive Shaft.jpgTable on.jpgTop Wheel on.jpg
Similar Threads
-
Steelfast Bandsaw
By LPeterStacey in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 8Last Post: 24th February 2019, 04:48 PM -
Bandsaw Blade Width Selection & Bandsaw bed throat and blade Alignment
By thumbsucker in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 30Last Post: 17th May 2014, 09:06 PM -
You call that a bandsaw? This is a bandsaw
By AlexS in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 18Last Post: 21st June 2011, 12:26 AM -
Bandsaw for only the SMARTEST of Buyers -Bandsaw in Excellent Condition
By prozac in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 4Last Post: 8th June 2008, 06:23 PM -
Will Carbatec bandsaw blades fit Jet bandsaw?
By FlyingDuck in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 2Last Post: 13th May 2006, 06:32 PM