Thread: Steelmaster SM MD12V Mini Mill Drill Belt Conversion

Excellent addition to the forum's knowledge base Amos, I'm sure this very detailed information will be of value to all Mini Mill owners.

Interesting mod Amos.
Does the mill run any smoother for having a belt rather than a gear?
(NB plastic gears aren't so bad provided they are the right plastic)

Michael

Michael, yes, much quieter and smoother, with larger size drills I use to get quite a chatter, but ok now, still wish it was a toothed belt, I reckon there would be less slippage when the going gets tough.!Amos

Ditto.

Interesting.

Couldn't you just replace the plastic gear with an alloy one ?

Rob

Nice job Amos, and good writeup, its always more interesting to read of the things that didn't work out, and the way you solved the various problems..

Ray

Good job PenTurner. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

Nice one Tori!

I can confirm that plastic gears are OK if the right stuff is used. Either way, I like the mod and thanks for sharing. Also, it's a PITA when a project does not go smoothly but in the end it adds to the satisfaction of achieving the result!

Cheers,

Simon

Apparently, this gear is a common problem and the better solution seems to be this modification!? And--not sure what the consequences of making that gear out of metal would be? maybe it would crunch the other gears cause too many metal filings?? Will need to do some research into it. Amos

A metal gear should not crunch the others if properly set up.
The main reasons for using a plastic gear are cost, low noise (won't ring when rotating), reduced or no need for lubrication and as a weak link.
With the right plastic you should not have had a problem. With garden furniture grade nylon however...

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

A metal gear should not crunch the others if properly set up.
The main reasons for using a plastic gear are cost, low noise (won't ring when rotating), reduced or no need for lubrication and as a weak link.
With the right plastic you should not have had a problem. With garden furniture grade nylon however...

Michael

I can vouch for that claim. I'm a convert!

Simon

Now to find the correct gear in the proper material might be difficult, unless one is skilled enough and has the tools to make one,Amos

Amos,

Well done.
That mill looks like a version of the Sieg X2 mill. Metal gears are available for these from the Little Machine shop online.
The plastic original gears on these are OK until the first crash, heavy intermittant cut, or use of a fly cutter, all of which will strip the gears quicksmart.

The belt drive conversion is much, much better than the original gear system as it is substantially quieter and smoother, more robust, and more forgiving of the above cutting scenarios.
I did a home made belt drive conversion on my X2 (detailed in https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/yo...ml#post1622786) using a small multi-vee belt that is more flexible than the single vee-belt in the kits,allowing in internal belt tensioner to be used.
If your belt slips under load it may not tensioned enough. I would expect the belt should grip all the way up to the motor control overload tripping (assuming your mill has this feature), except for momentary sudden cutter jams and such things.

Andrew

Thanks Andrew, I am only 10 minutes from you!, looked at your thread, and looks like some good work done on the modification. If you are down the main street of FTG, call by "Amos Electronics" at 88 Station St.
My main use has been for precision drilling of pen blanks, I find it sturdy and steady with more depth, and the electronic speed control is very useful. However, it would be good to expand my use to milling and such like.
I have also been watching some video's on a link sent to me by Fred (Big Shed)
Projects 3

Found them very educational, Amos