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  1. #31
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    So I'm not afforded the opportunity to answer criticisms, that's different.
    If your prior post was an answer to criticism then it would still be there.

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by gngh View Post
    Ok, moving right along: I've noticed if steel is left out side for a long time it hardens.
    There is no way known that steel gets harder, just by being left out side. Are you sure you are not confusing that with the cast iron weathering theory? Roll’s Royce blocks, Colchester lathe beds etc. They left them in the back paddock for 5-6 years until they stress relieved?

    I’m wondering why you think that steel hardens at outside sun temperature. Most steels are into the glowing red 700-820 deg C TEMPS. Sun temp would be lucky to hit 60 Deg C on a bush fire high day. Thats not even near the tempering range of any carbon steel to bring the hardness back.

    I think you might be mistaking rust (Iron oxide) for hard.

    Regards Phil.

  4. #33
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    For those that can't see the point because I don't know the grade of steel: that is exactly the point, all I know is one is black and one is bright. All of my stock is of unknown grade, I don't worry about material data sheets simply because I'm not making medical or dental components or rockets to send to the moon. I use whatever I can get. I guess that would make me an orphan here, what do you think? For those that need them, pick one to suit:
    Anyway the pics of my terrible work. Now I know I'm not supposed to say this, but again I simply can't see any difference.
    What do I think? You are no orphan. I have 1 length of 65mm round 1045 I bought for a specific purpose and hundreds of various bits of "steel". Horses for courses. It all depends on what you are making.

    Dean

  5. #34
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    For the sake of the test, i took a break from watching the grinder go back and forwards this arvo and cut some 16mm black bar and some 32mm bright bar. It also gave me an excuse to grind up an übershear 500 tool (500 cause its made from 1/2" HSS), one that Phil linked a video of some time back. Anyway, the results are pretty clear, pics are in order as follows:
    Black bar off standard HSS knife tool
    Pic of übershear tool
    R half shear tool, L of the knife tool
    Bright bar off shear tool, i didn't get any decent pics of it off the knife tool
    2 pics of the lace fine shavings of the shear tool.

    The shear tool seemed to cut just as well at any speed, with the bright bar i pushed it as high as 720rpm, as low as 275rpm. I did use coolant with the shear tool, i was worried about the fine tip overheating. The best cuts were made at the slowest feed rate the Antrac has, .042mm/rev

    Simon, tsk tsk, the Nafario principle.....its very despicable of you not to know were thats from! Its been on repeat here constantly! A made up term for a made up problem......
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    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #35
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    Default You did see it coming didn't you?

    Quote Originally Posted by gngh View Post
    Just to satisfy myself (although I am rather partial to a good argument)
    As soon as I read this in the first line of the original post I knew what half the posts in this thread were going to be...

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by gngh View Post
    Again I used the same depth of cut for both (1 click on the compound set at 45 degrees),
    Dude. Are you a HSM fan? You do know your depth of cut when the compound is turned around to 45 degree's is 0.707 of a click. Its a lathe, not a grinder.

    Dont be trying to turn steel wool, put your compond back to 90 degrees to the spindle, and put a decent cut on. What ever you are screwing on at 45 degree is not enough to make a cut.

    Regards Phil.

  8. #37
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    Default fun wreakers

    what could of been so bad about that post that were not aloud to read it?

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    what could of been so bad about that post that were not aloud to read it?
    I'm only going by memory, and I'M not moderation.. BUT.

    Swearing is a possible big one. Can you read between the lines. When you have a Mod like David G say things like this.

    "Open your mouth again like that and I will remove you too"

    If you can read between the lines, that would be a better than fair chance, something was off the rails. The "fun wreakers", thing, Thats a bit out of order.

    Regards Phil.

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Simon, tsk tsk, the Nafario principle.....its very despicable of you not to know were thats from! Its been on repeat here constantly! A made up term for a made up problem......
    Ha.. I'm a bit late coming to this thread, seems more than a bit confusing.. but the Dr Nefario reference got me intrigued... it seems to be right on the money! ( ok, I didn't know either, but google did, despicable me! )

    The Nefario Principle .. is simply stated by Dr. Nefario ..to be "that the duration of the shrunken state of an object is inversely proportional to the mass of the object."

    Regards
    Ray

  11. #40
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    > I'd be interested in other's results, there could be a myriad of reasons
    > why their black doesn't cut as well as bright: steel stored outside in the
    > weather for years is one very real possibility.

    In the old days, fresh hot rolled steel was sometimes stored for a while outside. Exposure to the weather meant that much of the thick mill scale was allowed to flake/peel-off by itself. Nowdays the steel mills have better methods to minimise scale buildup, and/or remove much of it before sending the product out.

  12. #41
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    This thread has been riveting .. but I am running out of popcorn.

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