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  1. #16
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    Default Progress

    I thought that it was time I rekindled my interest in this project . After a mishap with a slitting saw I thought it would be prudent to double the previously intended pair of cam locking tee bolts. Surprising how quickly 2 horsepower can work something loose.

    Now I have to work out a way of cutting the circular tee slot. Should be fun.

    BT

    ps. The cleaning of the lathe took longer than the turning of the base.
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  3. #17
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    Hi BT,
    Four has to be better than two
    Now for rotation location, How about and oversized ring bolted and pinned in 8(?) places then turned to a slip fit in the tee slot. Then bore four holes in it to past the tee bolt?

    Stuart

    p.s.Did I suggest the same idea in an earlier thread?
    Last edited by Stustoys; 9th July 2012 at 12:44 AM. Reason: p.s.

  4. #18
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    I have a couple of vices with circular T-slots in their swivel bases. Both have a square hole from the bottom into the T-slot to insert the T-bolts through. If you mill that hole first as a pocket from underneath, you can then break into it when milling a circular slot into the top. Once that's done, you can insert the T-slot cutter by itself from underneath and remount the base on the rotary table. Grab the shaft of the cutter with your collet chuck and start milling the sides of the T slot.
    On the other hand, one of my swivel bases has a round hole from the top as well - at an odd angle to the mounting lugs - presumable to minimise the chances of having a T-bolt sitting right in the centre of the hole and only holding by the very corners. The T-slot cutter can be lowered into the circular slot and cut the sides from the top with that method.
    Show us how you end up going about it.
    I guess you could also turn T-slots on the lathe with a special boring bar type tool....
    Cheers,
    Joe

    PS: have you considered using the mounting method of the Douglas shaper vice swivel base? No T-slots at all?

  5. #19
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Hi Bob,
    I was wondering what the part you were drilling with you sensitive head was for, now i know! I think Joe's suggestion of not using T slots would be the easiest, i don't exactly know what the douglas vice is like but i imagine its the same as the locks on most rotary tables? Having said that, where is the challenge in making it easy??? Look forward to seeing how you do it.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Bob,
    I was wondering what the part you were drilling with you sensitive head was for, now i know! I think Joe's suggestion of not using T slots would be the easiest, i don't exactly know what the douglas vice is like but i imagine its the same as the locks on most rotary tables? Having said that, where is the challenge in making it easy??? Look forward to seeing how you do it.

    As per the photo below Ewan.

    I am now committed to the cam lock tee bolt idea. Michael G suggested a bolt down plate to form the inner land of the tee slot. It's either that or a single plug as suggested in my cartoon at the commencement of this thread.

    I think whatever I do, I will cut a 10mm wide circular slot to the depth of the tee slot then bore a hole inboard of the slot to allow access for the tee slot cutter

    Joe's Douglas like setup would have been fine if my locking or clamping screws were accessible from the top. Would have been a really simple solution but not one that works in this application.

    Stu's registration ring would have also been a simple thing to include while machining the underside of the upper section. It would be a hell of a lot of work now. I plan to use a central locating pin. Haven't worked that one out yet.

    BT


  7. #21
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    Default Maybe I'm just being lazy but...

    I'm wondering how I would go doing nothing more regarding covering up the tee bolt access hole ie. leave it as shown in photo 4. If the upper section of the base was set at 45 degrees, one of the 4 tee bolts would only engage the outer land of the tee slot. The tee bolt should be a sliding fit in the upper section which should minimise racking.

    The other alternative, Michael G's suggestion, is to turn off the entire centre section of the base and replace it with a bolt on plate. I could comfortably fit six M5 cap screws or four M6. A lot more work.

    I know it's easy to recommend the laborious route when you aren't the provider of labour but what do you blokes reckon, worth the risk of an Achille's heel with the soft option?

    BT
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  8. #22
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    I tend towards the removable plate option, as I don't see any minus with it, apart from the extra work.
    But as you say, it'd probably be OK 95% of the time using it as shown.

    Jordan

  9. #23
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    It's the 5% that worries me Jordan. Maybe I just need to harden up and hack that nicely turned centre section off and fit a plate.

    BT

  10. #24
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    I guess a compromise would be to mill out a section and fit a small retainer. So maybe two screws instead of six.

  11. #25
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    What about a small plate with a single screw?
    Even one bolt is going to do alot but I think its just as important that it stops the tee bolt racking.
    Of course you have to work out localing the table first.

    Stuart

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    I guess a compromise would be to mill out a section and fit a small retainer. So maybe two screws instead of six.
    That's the way I would go....machine out a half moon and use a bolt either side of the hole. Easy straight machining and only 2 bolts.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  13. #27
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    Default Locating the table

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    What about a small plate with a single screw?
    Even one bolt is going to do alot but I think its just as important that it stops the tee bolt racking.
    Of course you have to work out localing the table first.

    Stuart

    Here is a plan ( a section actually). The plate is a six M5 screw affair. The "screw" is threaded 12 x 1 and 10 x 1. The "nuts" are either slotted or drilled to accommodate a pin spanner. Any way you look at it, there is a fair amount of rooting around. The whole project has been that way, I suppose there is no good reason to back off now.

    BT

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Here is a plan ( a section actually).
    LOL a little draftsman's humour

    How about something like this? Then you aren't locating off the removable part.
    With a counter bore into the table section to local the pin(Which is really the only alignment that matters right?).
    Why the nut??

    I am wondering though it you are weakening the whole to possibly strengthen part? I thinking the one I sketched above is about 1/6th of a full circle, if you get what I mean.

    Stuart

  15. #29
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    Stu,

    The single bolt down insert or plug is by far the easier option and as you suggest maintains the integrity of 5/6ths of the inner portion of the tee slot.

    With the original Schaublin cam lock tee bolts there is a bit less than 1mm play between locked and unlocked. It would be possible to do away with the nesting nuts and just have a spigot screwed into the upper profiled* section and simply locate the plain end of the spigot in a close fitting hole in the base. My only concern about the absence of the nuts which pull the assembly together, would be when the swivel base is mounted vertically.

    I will draw another "plan" tomorrow.

    * the profile is that of the Schaublin 102 lathe bed. The simple dividing head can fit on that lathe.

    BT

  16. #30
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    Hi BT,
    Where is the update? hehe
    You could do something like this. Scraping the face on the washer to get the fit you want. You'll be awhile wearing it out and then you'd just have to scrap a little more off.

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