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Thread: Swivel Base Revisited
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20th July 2012, 07:21 PM #31.
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20th July 2012 07:21 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th July 2012, 11:14 AM #32.
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Plugged
I decided to pursue the easy option and make an insert to the fill the cutter/tee bolt access hole in the base. There was only sufficient room to allow the fitting of a single M6 countersunk socket screw from the underside of the base, and at the same time provide adequate space for the connecting stud and washer a la Stu's suggestion. The tee slot cutter has to be left insitu while I clean up the edges of the slot with an end mill.
I am fearful that when I take a finishing light skim across top of the base, I might expose the very end of the blind tapped hole in the insert. Fingers crossed. Then I have the task of graduating the thing. 360 lines without a glitch. I won't ask my mate with the broken vice to come around to watch.
BT
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30th July 2012, 11:29 AM #33future machinist
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once again Bob that's exquisite machining looks fantastic
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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30th July 2012, 11:42 AM #34.
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Soft focus camera work Andre. Always does the trick.
I'm not out of the woods with this thing yet. After the scribing of 360 lines there's the stamping of the degrees. I already sweating thinking about it.
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30th July 2012, 11:51 AM #35
Nice work Bob
Have you made yourself a jig for aligning the number punches? I can probably dig out a link to one if you need it. I was helping a friend punch some letters on a sword pommel last week (i was just striking) In 4 letters he managed to get the C back to front twice....1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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30th July 2012, 11:54 AM #36.
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30th July 2012, 11:58 AM #37GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Bob,
Great work as always. As soon as I saw your pictures I thought "now why didnt I think to suggest bolting that part from the back?", luckily you're checking my work lol
One thing I found handy for dividing the straight knurl for the thumb screw was a piece of paper taped over the seconds graduations as I was only going to the nearest minute. You'll be on full degrees so could tape over most of the graduations on the hand wheel as well.
Stuart
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30th July 2012, 12:19 PM #38.
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30th July 2012, 02:01 PM #39.
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30th July 2012, 02:26 PM #40.
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I searched for graduating on the forum and found this -
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/cr...9/#post1324190
I will make a jig that has a locating spigot that will fit in the centre hole and one end will clamp into the tee slot and the other will hold the punch. What I learnt from my previous efforts is to write the numbers on the workpiece in their appropriate locations and also to test the punch position with a piece of masking tape on the workpiece. Any way you do it, it's stressfull.
BT
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1st August 2012, 10:40 PM #41
This is the jig i saw found some time back. http://www.neme-s.org/images/PDF_Fil...d_Collars1.pdf Its very simple. The only thing is he is doing it on the lathe. I was planning something similar only not on the lathe, like BT with a spigot for the center and a beam with points to hold the guide. As for how hard to hit each different punch.....with the jig the positioning should be repeatable so you could go back for another hit if needed.
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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1st August 2012, 11:43 PM #42.
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4th August 2012, 09:37 PM #43.
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Plugged
I cleaned up the edges of the tee slot on the mill this afternoon then set the base up again on the faceplate. The plug is a reasonable fit, the finish on the cast iron isn't. Cast bar, in my experience, varies in hardness. The final cut was about 0.001 deep witth the slowest feed . Maybe too slow. My fear is that if I have another go I'll expose the end of the blind M6 tapped hole in the plug. Me being anal I suppose, no one will ever see it.
BT
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4th August 2012, 10:33 PM #44GOLD MEMBER
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Hi BT,
Looks pretty good to me, but I can be a little rough. It does seem to have got worse after the first 10mm or so. Before you worry about another cut, have you spotted it to see how flat it is?
Whats it bolted to in the pictures?
Stuart
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4th August 2012, 11:09 PM #45.
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Stu,
It's not worse, the finish is dead smooth, just looks sh..house. It's bolted to the Hercus faceplate The problem that I will encounter if I start scraping the thing if it is not flat, is that any subsequent graduating will be illegible. Bit over a barrel. I need a surface grinder.
BT
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