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  1. #61
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    Default Imperial

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Easy Andre, get one of each
    Andre & Ewan
    It was not difficult for me, as you have probably noticed before.
    I know & accept we live in the metric age.That will not change.
    But all of my thinking , Lathe, Mill, Stock, Micrometers, Verniers Dial Gauges, Sine Bars, Everything is Imperial. Everything
    When you blokes talk .05mm etc my brain is immediately converting to "meaningful" Imperial.
    Not a problem, except when it comes to Screw Threads. One has to carry Metric Taps & Dies, Imperial...BA, UNC, Brass, BSW, BSF, Model Engineers, & so the story goes on, together with No Drills, Letter drills, Fraction Drills, Metric Drills & so the story goes on.
    However as Andre says its good to have tools on hand.
    regards
    Bruce

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  3. #62
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    nowra
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    Default

    Well I think I will take a gamble on a ctc 37 piece imperial set next time I have some cash. I find it easy to work in imperial or metric although I do find imperial a bit of a different language after 12 inches. I was kind of forced to work in imperial as my first lathe was imperial and most of the tools I inherited are imperial

    ps Thanks Ewan and Bruce for your comments I will stop hijacking Bobs thread
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  4. #63
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Hi BT,
    I was worried about the burrs also but less so that the number punch burrs. Thinking about it a little more you'd have to 0 the graduations each time you mounted the base, now you can skip that part.

    Hi Andre,
    If there nearest 0.0001" isnt good enough you are going to have more problems that "not having metric gauge blocks".
    Better still go metric, then you can be "to the closest micron"

    Stuart

  5. #64
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    Nov 2008
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    Default

    After a week's rest and recreation in the Tool Capital, I finished off the eccentric "bolts" that facilitate the clamping of the tee slotted upper section to the round base. The bolts began life as M10 x 70 cap screws. I had to turn a half millimetre offset with a resultant 9mm diameter waisted section on the unthreaded shank of the screw. I made a bush from some 3/4" 1214 and drilled the offset hole with a slot drill in the mill. I then installed a 5mm socket set screw in the side of the bush to lock the cap screw in place. I struggled trying to accurately centre the bush in my little Griptru chuck thinking the Griptru would afford pretty good repeatability. It didn't so I made another bush from some 20mm PG 4140 and mounted it in a ER chuck trued in my 4 jaw. ( I have a 20mm collet but not a 3/4" collet). Having stops at both ends of the saddle made the job pretty straightforward. High speed steel and undiluted soluble oil resulted in an ok finish. The cutter worked well, providing a radius to both ends of the cut in a similar fashion to the Swiss original.
    The tee bolt, stud, whatever isn't going to be as easy. I better start thinking about how the hell I'm going to make them.

    BT
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  6. #65
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Default

    Looks good Bob
    Nice idea to use socket head bolts.
    Surely the t bolt studs shouldn't be that hard, machine large dia on the end of a longish bar, cut the groove, machine the smaller dia/end down. Then put the bar in an RT on its side with a 3 jaw, drill, counterbore, then return to lathe and part off. It doesn't matter if the bar goes back in the lathe with radial runout as you will only be parting. Or am i missing something......?
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  7. #66
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    Default

    Hi BT,
    Nice start. Are you going to polish up the shaft of the bolts? it is a bearing surface after all.

    How about making one leaving this face oversized and not reduce the diameter. Then you could measure the clamp distance and the unclamp distance(for where the reduced diameter starts) and make your adjustments.

    Stuart
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  8. #67
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    Dec 2011
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    South East Queensland, Australia
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    Default

    Tis coming along good Anorak Bob, every bits a winner.
    You need four? so two spares?, or are you fitting the 2 extra in the base you had move during the slitting saw episode. That's if I'm thinking right from info in post #16.

    Good luck with the cam actuated tee bolt thingamajigs.

    Cheers.
    If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

  9. #68
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    Default

    Log , two are spare. I typed out a detailed response but for some strange reason I can't post that response.

    BT

  10. #69
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    Default

    Bob, what browser are you using?

    Did you use Quick Reply or did you Go Advanced?

  11. #70
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    Default

    Spares Log, I only need four. A lot easier to make while the lathe was set up than starting from scratch. Originally I had intended using two tee thingamajigs. Safety in numbers.

    I'm wondering how I will machine the groove in the thingamajig (clamp). The internal lower corner must be sqare or slightly undercut so that it bears evenly on the cast iron tee slot.

    I'm thinking of making a mock up clamp with a screw on base to enable the establishment of the correct overall height, a height that suits the cam and ensures proper locking. Jordan and Dave suggested this a while back.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/sw...8/#post1445539

    I have to scrape the underside of the rectangular top section before I venture too far with the clamps.

    BT

  12. #71
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    Default

    I see that the troublesome reply has finally made it.

    I use Windows Explorer 7 Fred and it was a quick reply . That could be the problem maybe because it contained a link. Next time I will try advanced.

    Bob.

  13. #72
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    I see that the troublesome reply has finally made it.

    I use Windows Explorer 7 Fred and it was a quick reply . That could be the problem maybe because it contained a link. Next time I will try advanced.

    Bob.
    Bob, most of these types of reported problems have been with various flavours of IE, mainly IE9. There have been suggestions to switch compatibilty mode on and that seems to have solved peoples' problems, but that could have been just for IE9.

    I use Firefox (V15) and have had no problems of that kind at all, other people that were using IE have switched to FF and found that their problems diappeared.

    Not suggesting you change, but keep it in mind.

  14. #73
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    Default A Thingamajig.

    I made a trial one this afternoon. It might have been successful if I hadn't turned too much off the 20mm diameter base section in an attempt to get the cam to work correctly. A drawing might have helped.

    Learned a couple of things in the process. I should have used a 12mm slot drill to drill a guide for the 12mm drill bit. It would have prevented chatter. I was concerned that the cutter I used to machine the groove would leave a poor finish being a piece of high speed steel ground to function as a parting off tool. Held in the front tool post, it did the job.

    To salvage this attempt, I will replace the integral 20mm section with a screw on replacement and adjust the length of the 10mm section until it works properly. Then when I have established the correct dimensions, I'll move onto the real ones.

    I might polish up the cams Stu, depends on the finish I achieve when milling the hole through the thingamajig.

    BT

    ps. I have installed Firefox.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Anorak Bob; 16th September 2012 at 11:27 PM. Reason: a few corrections to remedy a piss poor effort at proof reading

  15. #74
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    I might polish up the cams Stu, depends on the finish I achieve when milling the hole through the thingamajig.
    Hi BT,
    Just to be care*, it wasnt the finish on your cams I was talking about, it was the factory finish on the bolts.

    Stuart

    *clear
    Last edited by Stustoys; 17th September 2012 at 05:20 PM. Reason: *

  16. #75
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    Default

    A dunk in some Blackfast and you won't be able to tell the ring-in from the real thing.

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