Thread: Tapered Roller Bearing Cup Removal

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Has anyone tried the welding trick with a TIG?
I doubt it would work as well but it should still work and there would be a lot less cleaning up to do.

Stuart

TIG also gives you a lot better control of the extent of the heat applied when you use a pedal and, as you say, no spatter.

Originally Posted by Gavin Newman

TIG also gives you a lot better control of the extent of the heat applied when you use a pedal and, as you say, no spatter.

Never tried TIG.

Stick works well as it's long and thin and you can see what you're doing. TIG should be just as good.

As the casings are generally alloy or cast iron, any spatter just wipes off anyway.

Rob

Tried to find a tool I made long ago for a similar situation, so I will describe it instead...

It was made out of steel pipe or something like that..... For most of the way the od was turned down so it would fit the ID of the cup.. At the end a lip was made on a very short taper that is the bit that slips under the bottom of the cup...

Then the angle grinder cut wide slots lengthways along the tool.... Wide enough so that you can hammer the tool in, then the lip springs out when it reaches under the bearing.. Then slide hammer the bearing out....

Of course being only mild steel the lips did not spring out when bent inwards, so you make a taper cone then comes in from the bottomand you attach that to the slide hammer, or punch the tapered cone, the tapered cone presses against the lip stopping it from moving inwards and slipping out when you hit it...

Easier to make then describe...

Something like this Richard?

Miller 6596 42LE Bearing Cup Remover 1.JPG

Miller 6596 42LE Bearing Cup Remover 2.JPG

Or something a touch more sophisticated....

$(KGrHqV,!jcFJi-jzRNjBSd)PivgdQ~~60_57.JPG

ps. I imagine the economy model is similar to the device Jordan described early in this thread. All tethered together.

Yes something along those lines...

There is another design that uses little legs that move out...

And if you come across a blind ball bearing, you can make something to fit in between the balls to grab it...

Something along these lines? http://www.skf.com/binary/12-35811/1...ng-pullers.pdf

Yes.........

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Has anyone tried the welding trick with a TIG?
I doubt it would work as well but it should still work and there would be a lot less cleaning up to do.

even thou it is a prime candidate for the bead of weld method. affording your self
the time to use another less extrema method is the way to go.



Stuart

I haven't tried it with tig ive only used arc. You really dont need to achieve a
great weld. i sometimes turn the current up hotter than normal.
it really depends on how tight the fit is but sometime i have had
to put a substantial amount of weld into the bearing shell.
say 3 beads 2/3 of the way around the bearing and then knock it out with a dolly.
ideally 1 continues bead a little more than half way around is good.

i wonder how tight this bearing is.

some people may not agree with this but if the male half of the bearing is a size on size fit
to the spindle. Some lubrication is needed between the bearing and shaft. even thou heat is
required to easily fit the bearing to the shaft lubricate where the bearing will be sitting

Hi Bob,
In the past I have made a similar device to that described by Richard,with a few differences. On my one I made the bottom lip 2mm larger in diameter than the ID of the race cup, I also threaded the bottom 25mm of the inside bore with as large diameter thread as possible, I used some 16mm threaded bar, this is to replace the slide hammer as my race was in a blind hole . I then cut 6 or 8 (cannot remember) longitudinal 1mm wide slots a fair way up the stock,ran the tap back through to remove the burrs. I then crushed it in with a hose clamp then removed the clamp. The 1mm wide slots allow you to crush the OD of the puller just under the ID of the race so that it slips into place. By calculating the circumference of the large diameter then take away the total of the slot widths you can work out the size of the smaller diameter, I then turned a taper on a piece of the threaded bar and screwed this back into the puller expanding the puller back out to its largest diameter and keeping it there.I cut a piece of large diameter pipe to go over the assembly and with a heavy plate washer on top and two nuts jammed together with a free turning nut below them it was easy to tighten it and pull out the bearing race.You do need to make the puller a fair bit longer than the one shown in your sketch to give enough spring in the slotted ends. Hope you can understand this and it gives you more options. I have used the welder technique,but would prefer this method on your job.
Bob

Thanks Bob. The picture is clear.

Here's my latest thinking, along the lines of your, RC's and Jordan's suggestions. Unfortunately I'll have to carve it from solid. I have plenty of 40 NB pipe but its 48.3mm OD won't cut it. I may increase the holes at the slot ends to maybe 20mm, they are drawn as 16, to allow bit more collapsiblity.

taper.jpg

Obviously a bit more work than dusting of the Transarc.

BT

That's a fair bit of work to get that race out Bob.

I quick bead of weld on the race will have it out in 5 mins. Not swayed yet?

( not tryin' to be smart.... )

Originally Posted by Sterob

That's a fair bit of work to get that race out Bob.

I quick bead of weld on the race will have it out in 5 mins. Not swayed yet?

( not tryin' to be smart.... )

Nah, unswayed Steve.

One question regarding the weld solution. I imagine the heat expands the race before it contracts. What is the chance of cracking the cast iron housing? It's not an engine block, the casting is not real thick in the vicinity of the cup.

Bob.

Hi Bob,
I don't think you need the holes just make the tube a fair bit longer and increase the length of the slots.By threading the bottom section it makes the bottom of the puller a solid section once the threaded rod is inserted. Most times the bearing will pull out with very little effort as you are applying a uniform pressure around the race.Good luck.
Bob

Hi BT,

How about you turn up a thick stepped washer 47 and 51 Dia, another thick washer 47mm Dia, bolt them to the end of a bar sized to the bore of the casting. Then cut the first washer into 1/4s.............. get where I am going? don't make me sketch it

Or could turn a tapered bore in our 40 NB so that when you put your bar through it expandes to 51?

Stuart