Thread: Tapered Roller Bearing Cup Removal

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Sort of like this?

Yeap thats it, just much prettier then mine.

Stuart

p.s. Looking back thats not 1 000 000 miles away from where you started.

Halved. Worked well.

I made the bits out of 1214. That stuff is like hard butter. I know most of you blokes think the method I used was a lot of rooting around but I enjoy using my lathe and mill especially when the results work as hoped for.

Now for the cone. I don't have a puller with a long enough reach so I'll make some sort of plate affair that I can use on the hydraulic press. Removing the cage and roller will allow me to engage the front lip of the cone.

BT

ps. I had another look at the puller. A simple blind holed plug in the spindle bore may do the trick.

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Very nice work Bob. Well Done!

Bob,
Nicely done,with the wide slot between the two halves it made the job easy. As is usually the case the time to think about it and making the puller up takes about ten times longer than the actual doing.I hope the race gave you a bit of resistance, the last one I did almost fell out after I went to the trouble of making up a puller. A great learning experience that you will be able to use again.
Bob

I'm pressed Bob.
I may just throw the welder out and do it your way. It looks like a heap more fun.

Phil

I had to resort to butchery while trying to remove the cone. The puller's jaws would not engage the cone's lip properly, the jaws having suffered years of abuse wouldn't have helped much. I ground some recesses into the cone hoping they might improve the purchase of the jaws. They did.

It's interesting to observe the normally unobserved turned surfaces. Post a photo of handiwork like that here and you'd be up for a keel hauling. All the other surfaces, excluding a small section of the spindle's bore, are ground.

I hauled out the other camera, the tripod and the extension tubes for a few close ups. The grinding grit had made its way past the seals and into the bearings. Probably all worn evenly but the seal has about a 15thou gap between its lip and the casting. I had thought the perimeter lip was the only sealing surface but the seal also mates up against the flat end face of the bearing cup. The rubber is making contact with the cup but the grit has still managed to get in.

BT

ps. Should anyone be faced with the task of pulling a cup with an internal bore of 48mm and either being arcless or hesitant to arc up, my puller is an 8 dollar parcel post bag away.

Thanks for the kind compliments boys but this was really a joint effort. I just got to do the fun bits at the end. Thank you all for the suggestions.

hi bob thanks for the photos. whats the plan for setting up the preload when you reassemble?
i suppose you would have to expect erant grinding dust on a grinder.
my colchester lathe was so caked up with it im still scraping it out of spots.
well done

Originally Posted by azzrock

hi bob thanks for the photos. whats the plan for setting up the preload when you reassemble?
i suppose you would have to expect erant grinding dust on a grinder.
my colchester lathe was so caked up with it im still scraping it out of spots.
well done

Hello Aaron,

The manual states "no preload, no end play". With the drag of the seals it could be tricky.

Bob.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Hello Aaron,

The manual states "no preload, no end play". With the drag of the seals it could be tricky.

Bob.

In situations like this I always use a lazer tachometer to set the bearing just shy of pre-load.

Tighten the bearing finger tight, run the unit, measure speed and adjust up bearing until revs start to drop. Back off slightly and your done.

Rob

hello so its oppsing tappers with static seals at either end. that thick threaded ring
tightens it all up. is it easy to make adjustments later on. how tight do the bearing fit over the shaft?
azz

Originally Posted by azzrock

hello so its oppsing tappers with static seals at either end. that thick threaded ring
tightens it all up. is it easy to make adjustments later on. how tight do the bearing fit over the shaft?
azz

Hi Aaron,

To remove the outer, adjustment end cone I had to knock the spindle out with a hide mallet. Adjustment is by means of the threaded collar. Forget the fingers, I imagine I'll be using a hook spanner and the mallet.

Bob.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Hi Aaron,

To remove the outer, adjustment end cone I had to knock the spindle out with a hide mallet. Adjustment is by means of the threaded collar. Forget the fingers, I imagine I'll be using a hook spanner and the mallet.

Bob.

Hi Bob.
this puller set might just be your ticket . we only pick them up yesterday so it may be too late for you ?

Peter

Yep, too late Peter.

As it turned out I used the cup remover four times. The Bower NTN bearings I purchased as replacements for the unobtainable Timkens, were too short, about 40 thou too short. The end caps were scraping on the workhead casting. I could have set the casting up on a mandrel and remachined it to suit but instead I purchased a couple of packets of 1 1/4" x 1 3/4" shims from the States. My intention was to pack out the cones to provide clearance for the end caps. The shims were sent to my brother in New Jersey and I have yet to see them.

Then I had a look online for the original Timken bearings. There were some in the US but the 50 dollar shipping cost proved a deterrent. Armed with an updated bearing number ( an X had been added ) I contacted another bearing supplier over here, CBC Bearings. They had them but they wanted $68.53 per cone and $8 per cup plus gst. I then rang Statewide's head office in Perth ( it was a branch were I was told the originals weren't available ). They had them on the shelf, $41 the pair including tax.

I had to destroy one of the new Bower cones to remove it from the spindle.

The new Timkens are an improvement on the originals. They feature two lip seals that seal against the cast iron bore of the workhead and a seal that engages the front face of the cup. The old bearing only had one lip seal. The Bower bearing only sealed within the cup.

So in the end the bits and pieces I made to both remove and install the bearings proved to be a worthwhile exercise. To some, too much frigging around but I wonder how the relatively thin casting in the bearing seat location would have fared if subjected to rigors of welding, twice.

Bob.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

To some, too much frigging around but I wonder how the relatively thin casting in the bearing seat location would have fared if subjected to rigors of welding, twice.

Bob.

Wouldn't have hurt it IMO, provided you only welded on the cup and not the casting. As others have said, I'd have used a TIG torch.

Where did you get the shims from? I need some 35mm ID by 62 OD (I think, I'm in Sydney ATM and can't remember the bearing OD). 0.002" would be perfect, mixed thickness ditto.

PDW