Thread: Tapered Roller Bearing Cup Removal

That won't quite work, Bob, unless it's modified a bit more.
Just halving it, will still be too large along the cut edges I think, to fit past the bearing cup.
Maybe remove metal from the splits' "ends"?
Or, don't split it all the way through, but only as far along the part as near the end of its small diameter, to keep it in one piece.
Make say 3 or 4 diametral cuts, such that each sector can collapse inwards in a springy sort of way, past the cup. No need for the top bush.

Jordan

A bead of weld along the inside for about half way round will shrink the cup and it will fall out.... Not that I guess you want to do that, but it is how you do it with the likes of machinery...

hi bob is the grinder work head cast iron?
i think this is well thought out.
a lot of people would hit the bearing part with the freeze spay
and pry it out.
i like your idea better .
if you pack the gap between the bearing and housing
with grease and make a good fitting dolly. hitting the dolly with
a hammer should push the the bearing out of the casing. or at least move it
up wards.
a bit like a nut splitter.
there is of course the bead of weld method.
i think either the grease or your split ring sould
get it out.
aaron

here is a photo of the tool id use most days of the week to remove
the bearing cap.
SAM_0894.jpg
but if making a proper extraction tool is on the cards thats great.
aaron

Originally Posted by .RC.

A bead of weld along the inside for about half way round will shrink the cup and it will fall out.... Not that I guess you want to do that, but it is how you do it with the likes of machinery...

+1

That's how we get bearing races out of gearboxes on blind holes.

They fall out after a touch with the stick welder.

Rob

id go with the weld thats how i did it with farm machinery just protect evrything for slag

Weld it as stated or spend your time friggin around with pullers.

Richard and most others have already suggested welding, which is the way I would approach it too, and if you use a mig, you can get plenty of heat, without much slag to clean up. Best of luck with it Bob
Rob.

why stick a molten metal in your grinding head if you dont have to?

Originally Posted by azzrock

why stick a molten metal in your grinding head if you dont have to?

I don't have to and I won't. Twenty years ago I was a reasonably deft hand with a welder, now I reckon my wife would give me a run for my money. I haven't used my little stick welder for 12 years and given the rarity of the workhead, rekindling my skills on it isn't going to happen. I'll frig around pullin.

The photos below show one of the cups insitu and the original sealed cone in place. The seal should contact the cast iron housing, it doesn't. The new bearing has a deeper cup and a smaller diameter seal. The seal contacts the ground bearing surface of the cup. Should do a better job than the original.

Thank you all for the suggestions.

BT

Has anyone tried the welding trick with a TIG?
I doubt it would work as well but it should still work and there would be a lot less cleaning up to do.

Stuart

Hi Bob,
If you are like me and not a good 'shot' with the welder you can machine up some pieces to cover the exposed areas of the housing and clamp them in position. If they get welded to the cup it won't matter.
I normally use three runs longitudinally in the cup.
One other thing is to make sure that the half of the earth clamp with the cable attached is touching the cup to save arcing through.

Phil

I think that's a good way to approach it Anorak if you are going the non welding route. I suspect that the split out of your nominal 47mm OD will be around 10mm, but you will still have enough lip left to remove the cup.

I really enjoy having a lathe next to me when I'm doing press work, I can turn up exactly what I need for a job, no more making do with (sometimes marginally safe) piles of washers and sockets etc.

Hello everyone.
Just want to say, how impressed I am with the "Knowledge & Know How" there is on this Forum.
Mentioned before one lives & learns, & I continue to learn, from the vast expertise & knowledge expressed in solving problems, presented on the Forum.
Thanks, to everyone for the continuing input.
regards
Bruce