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  1. #1
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    Default Had enough of tapping off-square holes

    I spent the weekend building parts then tapping holes off square. The time has come that I did something about it. Ideally I want to tap mild steel using my milling machine. I was thinking something like this: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/T003

    I attempted to use a tap in a standard drill chuck, but it spun quite a bit and would not grab and do the "auto-tap" technique (quill loosened).

    Is one of these tension compression tapping heads this the right way forward?

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Hi variant22, it most certainly is the right way to go, the only thing that could make the taps not square is if the table of the drill press is not square. I use to have two of this type, one for small taps and another for larger taps. Certainly makes life a lot easier, particularly if you tap several hundred a day (this was done for batch work).
    Kryn

  4. #3
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    Default Power Tapping

    If I am tapping a through hole, I lock the tap in a ER32 collet and run the mill in the lowest gear then drive it down with the drill quill. For my steady rest project I had a blind hole so I held the tap in the collet chuck and provided pressure with the drill quill, while turning the chuck with the C spanner.

    Touch wood I have not snapped a tap Note: all my taps are very new Sutton taps. This might not work with worn or cheaper taps.

    Cheers

    Piers

  5. #4
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    Default

    Thanks Kryn for the note. I was waiting for someone to scream "NO" but it does not seem forthcoming. Given your thumbs up, I think I will pull the trigger on one.

    Piers037, I was running the tap in the drill chuck, mill in low gear, and could not get it to grab. I was going to try the technique you mentioned, but it just would not bite. I could also see it chewing my cheap Bordo tap. I have a new Sutton m12 but could not bring myself to use it. I am pretty good at breaking them.

    I do not think that the tapping head will help it bite any more than the drill chuck as it is not a machine tap. It will however give me a bit more confidence that it wont snap at the first hint of binding.

    PS: Piers if the 037 part of your name relates to the Group B monster, you need to let me know!

  6. #5
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    Default Lancia 037

    Variant22

    Yes the 037 in my name refers to the legendary Group B rally car. Well spotted.

    I am in the long process of building a replica. I have the cockpit from a Lancia Beta Montecarlo and I have built most of the rear fire wall and rear space frame.

    I should start a thread about the build.

    Cheers

    Piers

  7. #6
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    Default

    "I do not think that the tapping head will help it bite any more than the drill chuck as it is not a machine tap. It will however give me a bit more confidence that it wont snap at the first hint of binding." Quote

    The tapping head has 2V's at right angle to one another, so that they grip on the square end of the tap. With a new tool, you get operating destruction's to be able to set the chucks grip capacity, (I had S/H units and was nearly impossible to work out the adjustments), so slippage can be arranged, ideal for blind holes.
    I was tapping a lot of 6mm and 5mm, and found the best to use was Gun Nose Taps, slightly more expensive but cheaper in the long run, as they don't seem to break as easy, used Trefolex as a cutting lubricant, applied every 2nd or 3rd hole seemed to work very well.
    Kryn

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piers037 View Post
    Variant22

    Yes the 037 in my name refers to the legendary Group B rally car. Well spotted.

    I am in the long process of building a replica. I have the cockpit from a Lancia Beta Montecarlo and I have built most of the rear fire wall and rear space frame.

    I should start a thread about the build.

    Cheers

    Piers
    Would love to see the thread
    Kryn

  9. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    "I do not think that the tapping head will help it bite any more than the drill chuck as it is not a machine tap. It will however give me a bit more confidence that it wont snap at the first hint of binding." Quote

    The tapping head has 2V's at right angle to one another, so that they grip on the square end of the tap. With a new tool, you get operating destruction's to be able to set the chucks grip capacity, (I had S/H units and was nearly impossible to work out the adjustments), so slippage can be arranged, ideal for blind holes.
    I was tapping a lot of 6mm and 5mm, and found the best to use was Gun Nose Taps, slightly more expensive but cheaper in the long run, as they don't seem to break as easy, used Trefolex as a cutting lubricant, applied every 2nd or 3rd hole seemed to work very well.
    Kryn
    Thanks Kryn. Makes sense about the slip. It sounds like they are good units. I think the one I referenced is also rebadged as a Vertex unit. I have placed my order, so I will find out soon enough. I will also hunt down some gun nose taps. My forum of convenience (Ebay) does not have any in M12 1.75 listed..

    Piers, the 037 replica sounds very interesting. There are a crew of guys making them in New Zealand. I assume yours is based on the mid section of a Monte. There is a guy on this forum who owns a legitimate 037. Believed to be the only one in Australia. You can find him over in the Automotive section. He does some crazy modifications (not to the 037!). If you are interested I can share a few details with you on 16v heads, Volumetricos and how to mount them. Unless you have a genuine Abarth 16v head.. PM me if your interested.

  10. #9
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    Default

    You might like to check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBrrVnYBPOQif you go to about 16minutes in he has a poor mans power tap...-Josh

  11. #10
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    Default

    I have used their T3- MT3 or unit which is auto reversing and has an adjustable clutch to allow slip when required. Used for taps ranging from 5mm to 12mm, in ali, mild and stanless steel to 16mm thick driven with a 1.5HP gear head drill. Takes a bit to get used to vis setting up clutch etc, but once used to the unit an absolute breeze to use. Never broke a tape in 1000's of holes tapped in a production setting. Only real issue was the clamp mechanism that grips the tap flats was not really hardened sufficiently and started to chew out after couple of years.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  12. #11
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Varient,
    Try searching for dormer tap, there is a seller in the UK that sells them. I'll find a link for you. I have tapped in the mill on low speed with a drill chuck, no slipping. But that is with a good gun nose.

    Cheers,
    Ew

    Can't find a gun nose in Dormer....only straight or spiral, although if you plan to just use it in the tapping head spiral is ok. dormer m12 | eBay
    I could pick one up for you locally and pop it in the mail, but the prices are a fair bit higher than on ebay. I think an m12 would be $35 or so, maybe more these days.

    PS, this is the guy in the UK i was thinking of CARBIDE ENDMILL SLOTDRILL BALL, DRILLS, HSS AND COBALT items in cncpoorboy toolstore store on eBay!
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Varient,
    Try searching for dormer tap, there is a seller in the UK that sells them. I'll find a link for you. I have tapped in the mill on low speed with a drill chuck, no slipping. But that is with a good gun nose.

    Cheers,
    Ew

    Can't find a gun nose in Dormer....only straight or spiral, although if you plan to just use it in the tapping head spiral is ok. dormer m12 | eBay
    I could pick one up for you locally and pop it in the mail, but the prices are a fair bit higher than on ebay. I think an m12 would be $35 or so, maybe more these days.

    PS, this is the guy in the UK i was thinking of CARBIDE ENDMILL SLOTDRILL BALL, DRILLS, HSS AND COBALT items in cncpoorboy toolstore store on eBay!
    Josh, thanks for the tip. It looks like a neat trick by MrPete (Tubal Cain?). I should spend a bit more time watching his videos again.

    Malb, thanks for the review. It all sounds positive and straight forward. I actually think H&F are reasonably priced on these. From what I saw they are competitive on a world-wide basis on price, which is rare for them

    Thanks Ew. I have purchased tooling from this guy in the past. UK sellers are great with their Dormer.. The shipping however will put the project into my dormant basket.

    Thanks for the offer on posting me out a Dormer. I would take a Dormer M12 1.75 for $35, but I reckon they would be a fair bit more than that locally..

    I purchased one of these a while ago (from this seller) without knowing if it is M10 1.5 (any ideas as I have some T-nuts begging for some M10 1.5's): M10 TAP Spiral Flutes RED Shank Hsco Made BY Dormer Code NO E342 | eBay

  14. #13
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I bought my M12 maybe 5 years ago and it was under $30 (and its done a lot of work, they are good). I'll make phone call in the morning and check if you like.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    I bought my M12 maybe 5 years ago and it was under $30 (and its done a lot of work, they are good). I'll make phone call in the morning and check if you like.
    That would be great Ew.

  16. #15
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    i tap the old way ,by hand no probs at all .

    johno
    'If the enemy is in range, so are you.'

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