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18th August 2014, 07:15 PM #1Banned
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Tapping square holes, or, tapping holes square?
There you go, I've removed the distasteful post and saved Uee and the moderators the trouble. There's only one way to do things apparently...
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18th August 2014 07:15 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th August 2014, 07:50 PM #2.
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Th,
Here's another bit of handiness - https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...27#post1552027
My problem with tapping on/in the mill is running out of Z. I've used a variation of your pointed guide for tap alignment when using my drill press which is simply a piece of brass rod turned to match the across the flats dimension of my smaller Goliath taps. They don't have centre holes. That third hand would come in real handy at times.
BT
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18th August 2014, 08:54 PM #3Banned
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The abyss
Of the dozens of taps I have , I think about two have centering holes. I have three different size chuck type tap holders; fortunately, they all have centering holes. I must say though, I haven’t had a case where I’ve run out of travel though, you must tap some very deep holes.
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18th August 2014, 10:06 PM #4.
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248mm of Z runs out real quick.
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18th August 2014, 10:44 PM #5
Quill travel and Z clearance are 2 very different things.....
I have to say why bother with the whole tape center, be it plain or sprung. Just stick the tap in the chuck, turn the machine on and then off and drive the tap in while the machine is coasting. The tap will start straight and true every time.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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18th August 2014, 10:45 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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18th August 2014, 11:00 PM #7.
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OK, you've started the hole nice and true. Then what Ew? In my case, turn the motor back on and snap the tap. If I was in that much of a hurry I'd use my tapping chuck but then I'd have to buy some spiral taps and so it goes on........... The Z comment was based on the inability more often than not to even fit the tap and the handle between the spindle nose and the workpiece on the mill. The drill is a different thing altogether, adequate quill travel, copious Z.
BT
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18th August 2014, 11:11 PM #8
Sorry, i just sort of stopped there with the tap stuck in the chuck and the job
Undo the chuck, now you can finish by hand. Mind you i have only done this with gun and spiral taps and my hole is normally about 75-80% contact. To this day i have not broken a HSS tap, the only tap i think i have ever broken was an M5 carbon steel tap.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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18th August 2014, 11:14 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Bob,
If the tap goes into the drill chuck and not overly tightened it can slip before it breaks.
Raise the quill and finish the hole with the tap wrench.
Phil
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18th August 2014, 11:19 PM #10
I didn't mention it Phil, but as taps have hard shanks (unlike drill bits) they do not hold very well in drill chuck and will spin before anything else happens
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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19th August 2014, 12:07 AM #11Banned
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Feelings.
Small taps of five six milimetres you can break using two fingers, stick them in a drill and you lose all feel and it's very difficult to see what's happening at 60rpm. I hate trying to get broken taps out, but not as much as throwing out an almost finished project because you can't get the broken bit out - prefer to take my time...
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19th August 2014, 05:56 AM #12
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19th August 2014, 10:28 AM #131915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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19th August 2014, 11:51 AM #14Banned
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Nicely does it.
About 90% of the taps I have I bought when I was living in Malaysia, they're all Asian, the remainder I've bought in Australia, never checked where they are made. Interestingly I still have just about all of the taps, except for the two and three mm taps which I manage to break every now and again, and the five and six mm taps of which I've only broken a couple.
I think about the the only people that couldn't break a five or six mm tap, even 'quality' branded, would have to have something wrong with their fingers/wrists.
I started this thread because I thought it might be of interest or helpful to someone, so far at least one has. That aside, if you don't find it interesting or helpful, stick to your far superior tools and methodology and report this post to the moderators - I'm sure they'd be only too happy to remove it on your behalf.
This thread started out quite civil, don't understand why you would want to change that...
Viva la ferramenta C#!ne$e...
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19th August 2014, 12:41 PM #15Senior Member
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Unfortunately it's all too easy to break a small tap with two fingers, and it doesn't matter what brand it is.
I think old mate was talking about breaking the tap using only a finger on each end of the tap wrench, not breaking it like a match stick.
I thought it was a good idea to post the suggested technique, it's one I've used for years and will continue to do so.
It works for taps that are too big for your chuck and it also works for starting reamers.
Cheers,
Greg.
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