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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    I wonder if I could fit a tool post grinder to the 10EE?


    Only if it's a half decent lathe...
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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  3. #47
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    Before you guys "bin" the old motor consider saving the motors case. Pull the windings out and an adapter can be made fit inside to hold the router motor. If the router you have is a cylindrical / barrel type then the adapter is just a big bushing that can be made of aluminium, plastic or even hardwood. Using the old motor case removes the need to make a mount to fit the rest of the TPG.

    Pete

  4. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    Before you guys "bin" the old motor consider saving the motors case. Pull the windings out and an adapter can be made fit inside to hold the router motor. If the router you have is a cylindrical / barrel type then the adapter is just a big bushing that can be made of aluminium, plastic or even hardwood. Using the old motor case removes the need to make a mount to fit the rest of the TPG.

    Pete
    Hi Pete,

    Thanks for the suggestion. I read your post and had a really good think about it but the motor I'm thinking of using is oval not round so it would most likely add further complications to the project. I very reluctantly told Bob to bin the motor.

    Anyway, I recieved the parts so generously given to me bu Bob and spent the last couple of mornings disassembling and cleaning. Boy I love good quality old stuff. Such a pleasure to play with!

    After a few hourse of scrubbing and US cleaning, I gotta say, most things look pretty bloody good. The spindle has a few rust blemishes. I carefully removed some but figured I may do more harm than good if I go too far since it's designed to spin at close to 40K. The engineering felt and felt wicks that lubricate the bearings will be replaced (eventhough they didn't seem too bad from something built in 1940's) The bearings are most probably shagged too although I have cleaned them and may see how they go. They are expensive little buggars!

    Anyway, for anyone interested, here are a few pics of all the parts disassembled and of the trimmer router I plan to use to power it. I can't believe how well the motor mount actually fits the router, obviosly I will need to come up with a proper mounting harness for it. Also as luck would have it, the router spins the wrong way. It would produce sparks directed upwards. However, every cloud has a silver lining and a quick peek inside reveals that it's pretty easy to reverse one of the fields and have it run reverse. This would also change the ventillation direction meaning intaking "clean" air from the pulley end and blowing it out the rear where the grinding is happening. I may still come unstuck this idea since I have read that while these universal motors can run in either direction, they are designed to run one particular way. Time will tell.

    20150614_134659.jpg20150614_134844.jpg20150614_134945.jpg20150614_134959.jpg

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #49
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    You could make one like this bloke did....Very impressive
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFrVdoOhu1Q

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  6. #50
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    Yep, I have seen that video. Very impressive That won't be happening anytime soon in my shed!

    I know my limitations.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #51
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    That was a prompt dissection Simon.

    How is bearing preload achieved ? And can you slow the trimmer motor down?

    I purchased new wick assemblies and the felt sleeve. One end of the wick is tucked under the sleeve and the wick is then wound around a felt rod. The rod touches the narrow section of the taper on the spindle. The sleeve is charged with oil and it makes its way into the wicks and rod and onto the spindle where centrifugal action flings it off the wide end of the taper in a mist. In my hunt for appropriate oil, the Dumore oil being thin and not readily available, I contacted Mobil and it was suggested that fork oil would be an acceptable alternative. I will photograph the container if you are interested.

    I thought the bearings were a bit rough. It will be interesting to find out if they run smoothly after a clean. The New Departure bearings in mine were rooted. Hopefully you can find a cheaper alternative to the Barden replacements I used.

    I might have some photos of the felt and wick setup. From memory I had to slit the rod and insert the wick, a bit like threading a needle.

    Bob.

  8. #52
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    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  9. #53
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    Hi Bob,

    Yep I didn't waste any time getting it apart and cleaning. I really enjoy that sort of thing. Of course that's no indication of how quick the project will be finished! The yanks do make some nice stuff. That casting, as small as it is, is quite intricate when you look closely.

    The trimmer as it is has no means of variable speed. It must be over 30 years old. However I have a 1000W (rated) speed controller for such motors and may look at using that although I can still see benifit in a few pulley combinations rather than totally relying of electronic speed control.

    The preload is achieved with a small screw in assembly that screws into the pulley side of the casting, srewing it out pushes a preload spring up against the outer race of the bearing. Since the spindle "floats", the other bearing gets equal preload as it gets forced up against the casting at the other end. Once the preload has been set, a small brass set screw locks the preload screw.

    Hope the pics make more sense. The last pic shows the shiny part where the felt wick makes contact on the spindle.

    WRT the felt tube and wick. I will replace these, being a tight wad I am thinking of using some engineering felt I already have although I may just buy some from Dumore. I will need some advice with placement since the wicks pretty much fell apart and it was very difficult to see exactly how they sat. As for the felt tube, I can't for the life of me remember now whether the join faced upwards to the filler plug or face down. I'm thinking it faced down so that when replacing the oil it does not fall straight onto the spindle?

    I'm thinking I may be optimistic with these bearings. However, I am confident that new bearings will see this spindle back to near new. The bearings are a 7200 series angular contact bearing in a P4 precision. Yet to find any decent one for under about $100 each. I can't see any point in putting in "regular" bearings. It would seem a waste.

    20150615_095717.jpg20150615_095759.jpg20150615_101842.jpg20150615_102042.jpg20150615_102545.jpg

    Cheers,
    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  10. #54
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    Simon,

    It might be prudent to reassemble the grinder and check that the spindle runs true before you throw money at fresh beaings.

    Attached is a 2008 pricelist. Whilst I imagine the pricing has increased during the intervening years, it should give you some idea of the cost of some of the bits and pieces you might need if the spindle proves to be satisfactory.

    Bob
    Attached Files Attached Files

  11. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    Thanks! I'll get some more ideas from this.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Simon,

    It might be prudent to reassemble the grinder and check that the spindle runs true before you throw money at fresh beaings.

    Attached is a 2008 pricelist. Whilst I imagine the pricing has increased during the intervening years, it should give you some idea of the cost of some of the bits and pieces you might need if the spindle proves to be satisfactory.

    Bob
    Thanks Bob,

    I have been mucking around with test fitting on the lathe etc. It soon became apparent that when at centre height, there is a finite limit on the pulley size that will fit on the spindle and not fowl the compound. The trimmer runs at 30K which in some ways presents some challenges. It means I cannot change speeds purely electronically if I want useable operating speeds from 6,000 to 38500 rpm. The maximum size pulley I can fit on the spindle is about 60mm diameter, probably 50mm or 2" would be more realistic. So I was thinking 3 pulley sizes, 25mm, 32mm & 52mm and electronic speed control from 15K to 30K will probably get me by.

    I'll re-assemble the spindle and report back on runout….

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #57
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    Oh BTW WRT the bearings. Here's exactly what I need and at a "reasonable" price:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/B7200C-T-...item541c7934bd

    Question is, I don't think the seller really knows what type of bearing he is selling. Photos tell a different story to the description! I have left a question for the seller but he is yet to reply! here is no way they can be 7200 precision P4 for that price!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #58
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    Default Spindle condition

    Ok. I will have to do so further testing but according to the quick and dirty indicator setup I did, the spindle has less the half a thou runout. In fact it's difficult to see the 0.001" indicator actually move. I'd have a guess and say there is 0.3 thou runout? I'll know further when I attach the 2um DTI to it but I think it's safe to say it's OK. I also gave the bearings a squirt with oil just to "smooth" them out a bit for the test and they too don't feel that bad.

    I think I'll order the felt wicks and tube.

    Been looking in my scrap bin for some material to make the pulleys with, What do people think about pulleys made from Acetyl or should I stick with aluminium? My thinking is that acetyl is yet lighter again the aluminium which would further reduce any potential vibrations should there be any variance in balance of the pulleys.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  15. #59
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    All but the largest pulley Dumore supplied with my* 44 are steel, the former being aluminium. They are crowned, from memory with a tighter radius than the 1/8" in a 1' Michael mentions in his J & S thread.

    Bob

    * actually yours, the pulleys were one of the reasons I bought the boat anchor. They and the rotor proved to be the only things of worth to me.

  16. #60
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    Thanks Bob.

    I'm yet to work out how to crown the pulleys. I was under the impression Michael crowned his pulleys "free hand" and did a good job. I wouldn't think I would be as good at it. Looks like I need to made another ball turner, one for crowning pulleys. How big will that end up being!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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