Thread: Trueing up chuck jaws

All i see is that if the chuck is overtightened even just a little it will push the brass bar out of alignment and you will only make things worse. Also with such a soft pre-load on the jaws they may not end up correct anyway.
Better to put a ring in the back of the jaws and do it with the TPG or that little die grinder...
Ew

Not so sure I like the sound of that, but then I havent tried it.(I'm pretty sure my tail stock is out far enough vertically that I wont be trying it any time soon)

To charge a lap you roll the brass lap on something flat(thats harder than brass) with the diamond grit on it. The grit will end up embebded in the softer material.

Stuart

I think your respondent is getting confused with two different things -

• Any chuck that you grind with a TPG should end up with jaws that are parallel. No need to then hone them. In terms of metal removal, a hone is going to take a long time compared to a TPG.
• Honing jaws as described will work fine for a piece of stock exactly the size of the hone. However, due to the way that a 3 jaw chuck works there is no guarantee that a differently sized piece of stock will be exactly centred as the scroll is not perfect. 3 jaw chucks are widely recognised as not being the most accurate way to hold things anyway - he should be using a collet chuck or dialing in a 4 jaw.

Sounds like someone who has come up with a way to do something they think is pretty good and now is trying to convert the world to that way of thinking. Was there any mention of then having to strip the chuck down to remove the diamond grit and then putting it back together having lost that "in-situ" accuracy that was previously honed in?

Michael

The quoted comment was all I got.

It's an interesting method I've never heard of, but the tailstock would definitely have to be true or you'd go bell mouth on the jaws.

I was more interested in how to make diamond hones than the actual suggestion.

Anyone made hones like this and used them ?

Rob