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26th July 2015, 03:24 PM #16Intermediate Member
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Waldown negative grinding angle attachment
I was having trouble adjusting the table to 5 degrees negative, normally the adjusting screw locates in a dimple underneath it. It's an elongated depression, looks as though Waldown put it there, but if you set a negative table angle the adjusting screw sits on the edge of the hole and the angle won't stay set, it varies a degree or so both ways when you put any weight on the table.
Problem is solved with a little saddle, the slot is angled at 5 degrees, so when the table is at 5 degrees the screw is sitting perpendicular to its bearing surface, very easy to set now
I don't think I'll bother adding a dimple to the top of the saddle
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26th July 2015 03:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th July 2015, 05:26 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Nice work John.
That should keep you out of trouble.
I'll most looks like your machine could handle a bigger wheel. 7" or 8". I wouldn't be changing the diamond one yet.
I forgot to mention, that a single point or a cluster point dresser, like you would normally use on a surface grinder, will also refashion that wheel. Its just a matter of guiding it straight.
I think RayG from Shep, had a line on 7" green wheels in that face profile for the other end.
Regards. Phil.
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26th July 2015, 05:58 PM #18Intermediate Member
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How about this 39C100JV for carbide ?
You've inspired me to have a look at my stockpile
I must have 200Kg plus of assorted wheels I got with my T & C grinder, but only one green wheel
It's chipped but rings OK, I guess the chip will go away with wear, what do you think ?
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26th July 2015, 07:00 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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If I was to tell you publicly on a world wide forum that, that wheel was O.K to use. The Internet Police, would beat me home, change the locks, steal my car and pilfer my stockpile of Scotch.
A bloke I used to know, that looks a lot like me, would have given it a try, using caution. (Duck when you press the go button). It rings, so its not cracked.
Looks like its been chipped in storage, rather than having impact from a crash? Its a lot greener and fresher looking than the rest of the wheel. You normally get powder when a wheel has had a part go missing at 3000 f.p.m.
Regards Phil.
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26th July 2015, 07:21 PM #20Intermediate Member
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A brave man dies but once, a coward dies a thousand deaths
It's perfect, I was more worried about balance rather than instant death. In any case it's not doing a million revs and it's well guarded.
It runs much smoother than the old wheel, and I'm too lousy to buy a new one when I've got one in stock, just a little shop-soiled
Thanks for your help
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26th July 2015, 07:56 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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Do I take it from that you have all ready tried it? And it didn't explode.
I'd still lock your front door, it takes longer for the Internet police to get to Hastings.
You can dress that out, and just about anything will do it. I just checked EBay and they want $50 bucks for a Norton Norbide Stick. That must be something the Chinese haven't replicated yet. Norbide is near diamond hard. Eats green wheels.
Regards Phil.
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26th July 2015, 08:05 PM #22Intermediate Member
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Norbide 50$ on eBay vs $209 at Blackwoods
I chucked it on as soon as I read your post.
Also had a little go dressing with the remnant of the diamond dresser, seemed to get into the wheel pretty well - lots of dust though
Suppose the $4 eBay diamond dressers will be more economical than Norbide
Have a look below - then again I suppose Blackwoods deliver for free
John
STICK DRESSING NORBIDE 4.78X13X80MM *
Part No. 00692201 Brand Norton Manuf. No. Availability Ready to ship
1+ EACH $209.00 / EACH (Inc. GST) 3+ EACH $188.00 / EACH (Inc. GST) 5+ EACH $177.00 / EACH (Inc. GST) 7+ EACH $167.00 / EACH (Inc. GST) Last edited by johntopp; 26th July 2015 at 08:11 PM. Reason: more info
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26th July 2015, 08:58 PM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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Heaven Help us John, we could go to jail together. I want the top bunk.
To the others: I'll explain my cynicism. This forum only has a small measure of that Hysteria. We are generally well grounded, but had you posted this exact same question, on one of the International (Read U.S) forums. You were about to kill yourself at best, or mess up the time / space continuum.
Where I have a really high horse, that pisses me of no end, is since the introduction of Inverters, especially around grinders. Adding invertors to what was a three phase drive.
Iv'e often read about a 15 -20 -30 second ramp up time. I've read that here, by members, so it is relevant to the Aussie contingent, and this forum.
Internet myth is so that it doesn't un-settle the wheel. Changing the dressing / balance. You have to keep in mind what a commercial wheel / commercial machine does.
Real 3 phase motor on an industrial machine, connected to real 415 - 3 phase. Get a real kick in the Guts, to do full RPM @ 50 Hz. That will spin up in 250-500 ms. That would be 1/4 to 1/2 of a second.
This 15 - 20 -30 seconds to get them up to speed. That's just weird.
This delay thing of more then 1 second upsets me. That would be more than half accel. Machine that takes 30 seconds to come on song. F.M That's just awaiting a wheel to explode when it finally gets to speed
Analogies are good. If I'd won Tattslotto last night. There be a Porsche in the drive way tonight. That might do 5 sec to 60kmh. Trim the accel to 1/60th and you would likely be beaten, by some pretty chick from Amsterdam, with a flower basket and bicycle.
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26th July 2015, 09:20 PM #24Intermediate Member
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VFD vs 3 phase
Top bunk !!! - obviously you've done time before
Not sure why a VFD would upset things re balance, if the speed was slowly ramped up you think that the inertia of the wheel would be less likely to shift the wheel slightly on the arbour. Would be an interesting question for the physicists.
More of a concern I would think is that with a VFD you could drastically overspeed the machine. A 2800 rpm grinder is going to do 5600 if you run it at 100 Hz - that's even more of a problem for the safety Nazis perhaps.
I don't know that running that Waldown on VFD would be practical - there are only 3 leads coming out of the motor, so you'd be running it on 240V instead of 415V - you could still overspeed it as the rpm is determined by frequency, but you'd have no torque
I'm not too keen on VFD's anyway. There was one on my little Schaublin lathe when I got it, it'd take what seemed to be ages to come up to speed. I put it back to standard and the machine was "transformed". Up to speed instantly, lovely. The VFD is still screwed to the wall behind the lathe wrapped in its power cord, and that's probably where it'll stay.
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26th July 2015, 10:17 PM #25SENIOR MEMBER
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I'll always regret that tattoo on my forehead.
It doesn't upset anything Re: Balance. The quad root of that goes up with speed.
That's the thing. It makes no difference if you just kick it in the guts, and it takes half a second, but taking 30 seconds to get about it, via VFD. That would be 1/60th of the accel.
A second or two would be considered a soft start, but 15 -20 -30 seconds. That's the only point I'm trying to make. There are blokes here that do that. I'm trying to cut them off at the pass.
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26th July 2015, 11:42 PM #26Intermediate Member
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Acceleration / Decceleration affecting balance ?
I thought all the "recommendations" about not stopping a surface grinder after the wheel was dressed was that the position of the wheel on the spindle was critical to balance / concentricity. E.g the wheel could rotate a smidge on the spindle and thus upset things. So in that case a slow ramp up would be less likely to disturb things. If Force = Mass x Acceleration then if the acceleration is decreased by the ramp up time being 100 times or whatever more than a rapid start, then the Force will thus be 100 times less and so less likely to shift the wheel on the spindle.
Then again, a quick start is more likely to lock the nut onto the spindle thread - but, I'm not sure I'd want to leave the motor running forever till I'd finished the operation, my speed is not exactly industrial.
Also I'm not sure that the balance problem is so great with the size of wheel the average hobbyist would be running, when you get 12 inches or over, then maybe
What would drive me mad is waiting so long for a machine to spin up, it'd be comparable to swapping the 3 phase motor for a rope-start (not recoil) Villiers.
I don't understand why you'd set a ramp up time longer than half a second or so, the only reason for a ramp up time would be to limit the inrush current on startup, so you don't pop a breaker. It's not like you're firing up a 500 KW motor.
You can't argue with using a VFD if there's no other way out, providing you can correctly match the motor to the VFD, but I don't see why you'd increase the agony by taking so long to get up to speed.
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27th July 2015, 07:57 AM #27Philomath in training
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The "not stopping" thing is more about bearings and spindle - getting them up to a steady state working temperature and establishing the correct oil film in the bearings. Does that matter? Not sure but if you are chasing tenths it probably does, along with the temperature controlled grinding enclosure. Maybe for a plain bearing machine it has a greater benefit of wear reduction.
Phil is right - balance at speed is balance at speed. How long it takes to get there is immaterial to the actual balance.
I must admit to being lazy as I have not changed the default settings on the VFD's from a 10s ramp. I promise to fix it before you visit Phil.
Michael
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27th July 2015, 11:48 AM #28SENIOR MEMBER
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I just turn mine on and it's at speed.....
A friend of mine has been busy fitting new motors and VFDs to my Hercus T&C grinder as he needed it for some projects and I didn't need it any time soon. I guess I'll find out what he used as ramp time when I get home.
FWIW I'm partial to the top bunk, too.....
PDW
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27th July 2015, 12:32 PM #29
John, I have my diamond grinder on a slow ramp up down, maybe 5 seconds, if I don't do that the wheel spins off. I have a heavy cast iron disk to support the diamond lapping plates. Turn it off too quick and the next thing you will be running across the yard trying to stop it.
I chased all over looking for recessed mount 6" green carbide wheels, in the end I got a steel plate backed one from this mob in the US. Klinik in NZ used to have them, but they are no longer a stock item. I could have ordered a carton but 12 weeks delivery and what would I want with a whole carton anyway.
The diamond lapping disks I got from a supplier that BobL put me onto, (Can't find the link at the minute) I also got some from http://www.cutandslice.com.au/specials the 1200 grit gives a pretty good edge to carbide.
http://www.travers.com/53-110-196
If Phil and PDW are sharing the top bunk, I want a different cell.
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27th July 2015, 01:35 PM #30Intermediate Member
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Grinder wheel retention - green wheel source perhaps
Spins off..... sound like you could do with a locking arrangement - the photo shows what Waldown have done
Re carbide wheeels, I came across these guys when I was looking up specs on google, their prices seem OK
But I don't know anything about them
http://coatedabrasives.test.hornetma...ide-green.html
Blackwoods also carry wheels
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/search?q=green+wheel
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