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  1. #16
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    Scratch that post about it being very difficult to repair! I could not load the pics yesterday and I read it as a crack in the sine bar! I like Robs idea. You could open the crack up while it is assembled and push in a bit of thin flux in and let it close again. Pull it apart and then braze weld it.

    It's still a fiddly fix. I think it will probably pull the hole out of round and you will probably need to lap the major mating surfaces parallel and flat again. It's a nice tool and worthy of the effort. I think the seller should be come to the party and contribute to the cost of the fix. If you return it and get a full refund it will probably end up in the bin.

    My neighbor just bought an old knife off eBay. A damn good one actually but the tang was snapped in the handle and the seller probably did not know it. He got eBay to contact the seller and reduced the cost of the knife by half to cover the cost of the fix.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    But you have https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/de...6/#post1533484

    I've been watching Reliable's auctions ever since I started out on Ebay. They have had some wonderful gear over the years and they go to considerable pains to thoroughly photograph many of the items listed. In that time I have never seen a small item like a indicator, vernier or gauge with photos of the rear side, the side usually adorned with engraving. They have never mentioned engraving or marking in any of their listings. I have only ever purchased one thing from them, it was new in the box and they did not respond to my enquiry regarding shipping costs. I got clipped. Lesson learned.

    These days I always look at a seller's feedback before I bid. Worth looking at Reliable's...

    eBay Feedback Profile for reliabletools

    Given the volume of items they list, I don't think they would be in a position to thoroughly check everything they sell for damage such as that discovered on the Kingmann White. They do sell some real beater stuff and it's always described and being in good condition but they certainly are not orphans in that regard.

    BT

    this guy have reliable negative feedback.
    i wouldn't touch this seller ,
    Peter

  4. #18
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Thanks guys.
    It looked to me like most of the negative feedback is about postage times. But maybe i just don't want to know.....

    Phil, thanks for the tip on the email addy, i'll try that.

    Michael, a grind might be a good idea. I think someone has given it a lick before, the surface finish is poor in places.

    I don't have a TIG, but I could braze it. Today i pulled it apart and noticed 2 things. I think some one has already tried to repair it, and its stainless (completely non magnetic).
    However it is not stainless so it doesn't short the mag poles, there are nylon washers to stop that.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    It looked to me like most of the negative feedback is about postage times.
    One thing to watch about this sort of thing. I,ve had my neg feedback changed to positive once a part refund was given. Buyers aren,t likely to get a refund for slow postage so the negitive stays.
    So as ebay sees it, if you get some sort of refund you are now a 100% happy camper. Not an unhappy camper who managed to get a refunded.

    Stuart

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    I don't have a TIG, but I could braze it. Today i pulled it apart and noticed 2 things. I think some one has already tried to repair it, and its stainless (completely non magnetic).
    However it is not stainless so it doesn't short the mag poles, there are nylon washers to stop that.
    I reckon the nylon washers are more likely to prevent galling or control friction. A nylon washer in a magnetic field should have a negligible effect.

    TIG would be my choice for repair (but then all I have for brazing is a MAPP torch). V prep one side, weld, v prep & weld the other and it should be fine. Depending on how thick the part is a pass on one side might do, but the prep will give you clean metal to weld to (oil etc may have gotten into the crack) and "equal" heat on each side of the crack is less likely to distort the part.

    What is the physical size of the part? I may have some 304 flat bar somewhere here (can't remember if it is 3 or 5mm thick) that you could use to fabricate a new one. If it is just a profile with a hole or two that should not be difficult.

    Michael

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    What is the physical size of the part? I may have some 304 flat bar somewhere here (can't remember if it is 3 or 5mm thick) that you could use to fabricate a new one. If it is just a profile with a hole or two that should not be difficult.

    Michael
    Come to that I have a metric shyteload of 316 scrap up to 12mm thick around the place. I could easily spare a bit. If I were making a new 'something' that wasn't going in salt water and needed machining etc, I'd be using 303 by preference though. 304 would rate somewhere ahead of Aquamet or Inconel but a long way behind 303 or 316.....

    PDW

  8. #22
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    Hi Ueee
    did reliable ever reply ?

    if not I would lodge a formal complaint with Ebay

    no reply...is this is sign of someone who is guilty???.

  9. #23
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    No reply yet. I haven't really thought about it much, the antrac has distracted me a bit.

    Thanks for the offers of some steel guys, I'll measure it up and see what I need.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  10. #24
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    I wonder if its along the lines of "cant be bothered with the small stuff"(or possibly "I'll get around to that when I have a minute")?
    I was flipping through this guys feedback there are guys buying 30 and 40 items at a time(the record is 73 in one go) again and again.
    Never seen anything like it.(well except once and we wont go into that lol) but then how often do I look that closely at someone pos feedback......

    eBay Feedback Profile for bestlocksmithdavid
    eBay Feedback Profile for 3rddae
    eBay Feedback Profile for doug0154s8

    Stuart

  11. #25
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    Default mt1 arbor

    Quote Originally Posted by Theberylbloke View Post
    Hi Ewan,

    I have bought a few items from Reliable Tools and the results have been mixed.

    An albrecht drill chuck was listed as being on a MT1 arbor. When it arrived I found it was MT2. A small problem when your one spindle is MT1. After a couple of emails with Rick we settled on reimbursement of the cost of a new MT1 arbor.

    I recently bought two 5C collets from them which were listed as "Hardinge" brand, but only one of them is. I'm in no hurry to deal with them again.

    I'd hang in there and if they don't reply to your emails raise a complaint with PayPal.

    Cheers

    The Beryl Bloke

    hi mate ill swap you a rhom mt1 arbor for your mt2.
    aaron

  12. #26
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    Well i have had some success today. After still not hearing from them, even after an email, i put in a claim for half the cost back, $25.50 US, last Friday. It came back on Monday as declined and a counter offer of a $12 refund was put on the table. $12? I just replied with the same request for $25 and a note saying it could not be used in its current condition and how much i would have to put into making a new one. The claim was agreed to today. That does give me a little faith in the system if nothing else.....

    The piece is 1.250" x .750" x .125". It has the faintest of faint magnetism, but it is only just there.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  13. #27
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    316 can be faintly magnetic.
    I have 304 but as Peter (PDW) says 316 is probably nicer to machine.
    My 304 is 1"x1/8" strip or I do have some 20mmx5mm stainless strip, grade unknown.
    Send me a PM if you would like some.

    Michael

  14. #28
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    I doubt you'd ever get an email reply, good, bad or indifferent - only method I've had success with is direct call. Couldn't imagine the amount of time and resources they'd need to devote otherwise.

  15. #29
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    Thanks to Michael i now have the sine bar fixed. I even have enough stainless left to make another one if i ever need to.....i doubt it though. A light grind on all 4 sides and it looks (almost) like new, i only took about .0005" of each side but that was enough to get rid of the engraving.

    Cheers,
    Ew
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    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  16. #30
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    Very spiffy!

    Michael

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