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  1. #1
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    Default Welding bay fume hood

    I've posted some pics and WIP details of my welding bay fume hood over in my shed fitting thread.

    Here Sneak peak picture preview

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  3. #2
    Dave J Guest

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    Nice unit Bob, will look forward to your updates.

    Dave

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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Good one Bob
    I just open the back door.......
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Good one Bob
    I just open the back door.......
    Living in an inner city neighbourhood on a small block I really have to watch the noise especially at night so I tend to do metal work with the doors and windows closed. Hopefully the fume hood with improve my standard end of the metal working day booger test. We have a fume hood in the welding bay at work at work and I have always been impressed how effective it is even when someone is welding in it all day. The one at work is much bigger ~2 x 2 m and the fans are even bigger but I will try with a bathroom fan extractor for a start and upgrade if needs be. More important as far as other machines are concerned are the sparks and grinding dust that seems to settle everywhere throughout the shed.

  6. #5
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    Hi Bob,
    Looking good so far. If you feel the fan isnt up to it(and I think it might struggle as it is now...... but you never know). Try fitting a sheet over the opening like this. You are then extracting the fumes that were going to escape the hood rather than trying to "empty" the hood completely. Hope that makes sense.

    Stuart

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Bob,
    Looking good so far. If you feel the fan isnt up to it(and I think it might struggle as it is now...... but you never know). Try fitting a sheet over the opening like this. You are then extracting the fumes that were going to escape the hood rather than trying to "empty" the hood completely. Hope that makes sense.

    Stuart
    Thanks for the idea.

    I just measured the flow rate of the bathroom extractor type fan and it only moves 120 cfm which is almost certainly not going to to be enough. I do have a 1/3rd HP squirrel cage fan which supposedly pulls 1000 cfm (unrestricted, which it effectively it is in this case) which should do the business. I now wish I had measured it first (DANG!) but as I have already made the plenum for the bathroom type fan I will try the bathroom type one first to see what it can do.

  8. #7
    Dave J Guest

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    Hi Bob,
    If it's any help we had a IXL tastic light fan combo in the bathroom years a go and after it gave up (around 10 years) we bought another brand which looked good but had nowhere near the exhaust fan movement, so you might find other fans work better.

    A mate of mine made a spray booth at home and after looking around he bought some fans from the Hyro place. They had 2 sorts, one style was around 10 inch and real industrial looking and the other was around 12 inch which was a lot larger. The were priced some around $180 and $300, but he had had enough of buying replacement bathroom fans and they never worked great. With these ones in it cleared the over spray in no time and they where guaranteed for something like 5 years.

    Dave

  9. #8
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    Hi Bob,
    I was going to suggest you use a 12v car thermo fan wired with a pwm controller, but it sounds like you have it sorted. I have 2 10" thermo fans in the roof of my shed, running off 40w solar panels. They remove heaps of hot air in summer, as well as plot of the fumes. If I have a lot of grinding to do I do it in the daytime, I don't want to push my luck with the neighbours.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  10. #9
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    I have just scored a great little fan that should do the job - it looks like it is a 1/6 HP squirrel cage fan with variable speed control. It's also a fair bit smaller than the 1/3 HP squirrel cage fan unit which is quite bulky

    I found this little fan in the to-be-chucked out pile at work. It's been used in an acid purification lab so the fan cowling has some rust and corrosion on the electrical terminals but it Meggers fine and it runs nice and quietly. Should be just right for my purpose.

  11. #10
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    It looks very good, on a related note I found welding fumes and rosin flux vapours caused bad sinus headaches which I could relieve with one of those saline nasal sprays from the chemist. When it runs out you mix less than a level teaspoon of salt and a pinch of bicarbonate of soda in a glass of hot water to refill the squirter.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I have just scored a great little fan that should do the job - it looks like it is a 1/6 HP squirrel cage fan with variable speed control. It's also a fair bit smaller than the 1/3 HP squirrel cage fan unit which is quite bulky

    I found this little fan in the to-be-chucked out pile at work. It's been used in an acid purification lab so the fan cowling has some rust and corrosion on the electrical terminals but it Meggers fine and it runs nice and quietly. Should be just right for my purpose.
    I opened up the fan this evening to see how far the corrosion has got into it. There's a fair bit of black sticky gunk inside it which has a faint acidic smell so I took it apart and washed it out. Theres a bit of surface rust and the galvanised finish is lightly corroded in places. Large Patches of the paint have come off easily which suggests it was painted (probably by someone at work) without using any etch primer.

    Unfortunately the label has been painted over but there is enough German embossed into the motor to confirm it is made in Germany. I put an ammeter on it and it is drawing just under 1 A so that makes it ~230W. Air speed wise it's pulling about 600 cfm at high speed and 350 cfm at it's lowest speed and is fairly quiet even on the high speed, much quieter than my old 600 cfm DC. . Should be good enough for what I need it to do.

    While it's apart I'll give it a prime and paint to slow down the corrosion. I spent the rest of the evening making a little stand for it to sit on in the fume hood.

  13. #12
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    Hi Bob,
    One thing you might like to check is how hot the motor gets. As strange is it seems they can draw more current in "free air". As the airflow goes down so does the current. So if the fan is design to be part of a system it may have less restriction than it was designed for so run hotter. Yes I know is sounds crazy. Maybe someone else can explain the reason or correct me. I've even come across it on one of the fans I have here. I replaced the motor and left off a piece of sheetmetal that blanked off a couple of inches of the outlet and the motor got hot, replaced the piece and it ran nice and cool.

    Stuart

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Bob,
    One thing you might like to check is how hot the motor gets. As strange is it seems they can draw more current in "free air". As the airflow goes down so does the current. So if the fan is design to be part of a system it may have less restriction than it was designed for so run hotter. Yes I know is sounds crazy. Maybe someone else can explain the reason or correct me. I've even come across it on one of the fans I have here. I replaced the motor and left off a piece of sheetmetal that blanked off a couple of inches of the outlet and the motor got hot, replaced the piece and it ran nice and cool.

    Stuart
    Ah ha - that makes sense - the motor is definitely getting quite hot. It is designed to force air through a HEPA filter I will insert a damper and see what happens.

    BTW I have done a bit more on the fume hood - if you are interested look here.

  15. #14
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    Before inserting the damper I decide to see what happened when it was running at slower speeds. At minimum speed I cannot feel any heat, at about 50% it ran fine and got just a little warm. At full speed it got hot enough to trip out - I'm exploring the region between 50 and 100% to see what an absolute max is.

    It looks like the max is 60%, I will now try a damper.

  16. #15
    Dave J Guest

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    Looking good Bob,
    I remember 20 odd years ago having what I thought was the flu. I spoke to my grandfather who is a retired boiler maker ship builder and after telling what I had been doing before getting sick, he strait away said you have gal poisoning.
    He said it was common to give flu like symptoms.

    Dave

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