Thread: What oils are we using in our machines.

Our lathe manual (HAFCO Al340a) said Tonna S 68 in the gearbox and Tellus S 32 on the beds, etc. Daily for beds, Yearly for gearbox/headstock (first change after 3 months) and monthly apply white lithium grease to change gears. Castrol also make an ISO 68 oil that's suitable. We had to buy our Tonna and Tellus oils in 20L drums from Shell, heh.

When I got my chinese lathe (254 X 550?) about 20 years ago the gearbox oil was very heavy; possibly around 120 or so gear oil.
The machine appeared to be held back by this power absorbing lubricant.

An old engineer suggested that I drain & flush the box; then refill with auto trans fluid. The machine ran much more freely; but was noisier with quite a bit of gear clash at highr speeds. Top speed is now usable; if you can stand the gear scream. Oil leaks are a problem though.

I need to strip the lathe down and replace the bearings with some quality ones. The lighter oil quickly highlighted some poor bearings. On reassembly I will use aircraft grade gasket cement on all the joints. Presently is is only metal to metal. Probably why these older machines all leaked like sieves.

When I originally queried the use of thinner oil; it was suggested that an auto trans works harder than a lathe gearbox.

Ken

I've been using hydraulic oil on the bedways of my lathe for the last several years. It works well and is cheap - I buy a 4 L bottle from the local agent. Hydraulic oil has the advantage that it contains no detergents and similar undesirable (for a lathe) additives.

G'Day All,
I have just changed the oil in my lathe and was unsure what to use, so I looked to see what I had on hand. I ended up using 90W hypiod diff oil and it seems to be O.K. as it does not appear to have any adverse effects, and my thoughts where that a differential has a lot of force placed on it and they are gears. I did not want to use motor oil as I felt it to be a bit light for the loads it is placed under.

I was told by Hare & Forbes to use Valvoline Ultramax 46 in my AL320G when I bought it.

It seems to be that every machinist forum I have been on and seen mention of oil comes back to using a hydaulic oil of some description.
Everyone also says engine oil and gear oil are not good...engine oil being worse.

H&F in Perth told me to use 'Hydraulic 46' in my AL-335, which would be the same as what you were told Oldhack, just a different brand.
The book that came with my lathe said to use '#20 machine oil ' what ever that is. maybe something got lost in translation.

I use Shell Tellus 32 oil for the gearboxes and the beds as per the colchester manual (reccomends 68 for cold conditions or 32 for normal).
Shell Avania RL2 or 3 electric motor grease for the screws.

Check this web page out
http://www.shell.com/static/au-en/do...l_products.pdf

Ben

My Hafco lathe uses Tellus 32 in the gearboxes and Tonna S 68 on the ways.

see here.


I'm sure there are lots of alternatives, but I decided to stick with what's in the "manual". I was also told I could use compressor oil on the ways. The same person recommended (?not 100% sure) Castrol Hyspin 32 in the gearboxes.

The reason you use a hydraulic oil in the enclosed head /gearbox is that it will not " suspend " fine metal fragments as the gears turn and cause extra wear. It lets them fall to the bottom straight away as your lathe does not have an oil filtering system.
Engine oils and diff oils while lubricating ok will hold fine metal filings in suspension this is why car engines have an oil filter system. Also heavy hypoid diff oils take away a lot of hp from the motor.
Tellus 46 would be ok for the head gearbox and thread gearbox.
Tonna S 68 is a sticky slideway oil and is good for the v-ways and external metal surfaces as well as for filling the apron and on the lead screw. It is designed to stay put and not dry out quickly.
Any 32 to 46 weight hydraulic oil would work ok in the head gears and threading gears.
32 in the really cold places and 46 in the warmer climates.