Thread: Exploding compressor.

You can pick up USB inspection cameras with lights for about $20 if you want to have a look inside it.

You're right it's the inside condition and not the outside appearance that is important. If you are worried about the condition you can have it inspected and pressure tested and IIRC some Workcare regulations actually require it.

What size hole do they fit through?.

For a 20 year old compressor I'd put money towards a replacement, and/or at least move it outside the shed (I have mine in a semi-soundproof enclosure for 6 years)

For those that want to reduce the chances of this happening in the first place consider installing one of these auto water drain valves.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-1-2-Ele...zoNn6enAYNN1zw

• Electronic drain valve to solid-state electronic timer and solenoid valve to match the time to achieve automatic discharge of compressed air condensate.
• Discharge time and interval time can be adjusted according to different needs.
• Easy to install, fully automatic operation.
• Used in filters, oil-water separator, refrigerated dryers, cold and dry machines, air compressors, air cylinders, dripping feet and other compressed air system components.

I leave my compressor on all the time and have the have the auto water drain valves permanently wired to 240V so that it discharges a 0.5s pulse of air every 45 minutes purging the water from the tank.
This means it loses 38L a day of atmospheric pressure air a day. The 60L tank is pressurised to 135PSI or about 9 atm so holds 540L of air at atmosphere, so it loses 7% of its air a day. There are some other small leaks so if I don't draw any air from the compressor it recharges automatically every other day or so.

You don't have to do this and could program it in a different way to suit your needs.

I would wire it so that the drain only operates when the compressor is running, that way you will limit the air loss and still keep the compressor dry.

Most compressor reservoirs have an inspection screw plug at one end of the tank.

A lot of pressure vessels (steam boilers) that I work with have non destructive thickness testing carried out. If the plate is getting too thin either repairs are required or the vessel condemnd. At worst some of the paint may need to be removed for testing.
Apart from this I regrett I am unable to provide any details.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

I would wire it so that the drain only operates when the compressor is running, that way you will limit the air loss and still keep the compressor dry.

Compressing air heats it up which enables it to hold much moisture as a gas. Compressing the air condenses relatively little water because the temperature is too high and only when the air cools down some time later does most of the the water condense out and that will be well after the compressor has turned off. Then that water sits in the tank until the next time you use the compressor which for some people could be weeks.

Another way would be to be able to program a vent valve to purge the water from the tank a couple of hours after the compressor stops meanwhile water builds up in the tank.
It depends on the ambient humidity but I need about a 2 second pulse to fully flush the water from a recharge so while that's only an 8 L loss, I figure it's better to eject the water as it condenses.

Originally Posted by BobL

...For those that want to reduce the chances of this happening in the first place consider installing one of these auto water drain valves.....

Just ordered one, sounds interesting, plus a few other items from same seller, self confessed Ebay addict

I was taught to always drain the tank before and after every work session with the manual drain valve. Mine is not permanently set up however. Good work practice and being aware of the risks are perhaps better than an auto drain valve. If you have manually drained it then you know it is drained.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by orraloon

I was taught to always drain the tank before and after every work session with the manual drain valve. Mine is not permanently set up however. Good work practice and being aware of the risks are perhaps better than an auto drain valve. If you have manually drained it then you know it is drained.

That's what I was taught but invariably I forgot to do it, or I was always in a hurry and would say to myself "I will do it next time", especially as I have to go around the back of the shed and open the compressor enclosure to do it.
BTW it's easy to know if the auto drain is working or not. Even though my compressor is inside an enclosure outside my workshop when the vent valve triggers it makes enough noise to be heard inside the shed. When it triggers it sounds like a small air gun and it took me a week or so to get used to the sound and to stop looking around for the source of the strange noise.

Wondering if I should put some EvapoRust in there.

It will neutralise all the rust and add an oxidised protective coating.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Wondering if I should put some EvapoRust in there.
It will neutralise all the rust and add an oxidised protective coating.

The protective coating generated by evaporust is not a permanent solution as it doesn't prevent rusting from restarting when re-esposed to moisture.
The MSDS states "Inhibits rust from reforming for up to 4 weeks"
It's meant to be used to convert the rust and then a more permanent waterproof coating applied over the top

It was my thought that manufacturers would apply an enamel or powder coating to the inside. Probably some good reasons why they don't (other than obvious conspiracy theories).

perhaps after doing the evporust thing I could dry it right out and pop a bit of paint in there. Oil paint or something. Swoosh it around a bit. Obviously the plug will need to be removed and the thread protected.

what is a shame is that the bottom bung doesn't have the same auto-clean function that the water condenser ejector has. When the pressure drops it pops open and foooooshhhh it drys it out.

looked around and the only solution is the electric timer thing, but this is no solution at all as I don't know how to do all the electrics (nor have the inclination to learn it either).

seems a bit odd that such a thing doesn't exist.