Thread: Tablesaw Feeding

You would have to be a spaz to push the timber through in most of your drawings.

Just do what ever feels comfortable..
With push sticks of course.

Al :confused:

Al,

Thats why I'm asking, I dont want to be a spaz, I want to do it right.

What Ozwinner has said - never, ever, go around and pull stuff through.

I always aim to have my hands a minimum of 100mm from the blade; never push directly in line with the blade - the timber could crack/split, a push stick could slip, etc. In any case once the stock has engaged the blade, it shouldn't need any pressure to hold it against the fence.

Similarly, I always stand anywhere but directly behind the blase or the stock - if it kicks back - smile for the camera!

Cheers!

Scenario 1.

Standing to left of blade, left hand puts pressure towards the fence, right hand feeds timber.

And in Tassie, other hand holds beer can.

Whatever you do, just don't stand behind the timber :eek:

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

In any case once the stock has engaged the blade, it shouldn't need any pressure to hold it against the fence.
Cheers!

Really?

Originally Posted by LineLefty

Really?

Just as well you asked isnt it..??

Al

I use the attitude that if u use common sence, and use the correct aids, like push sticks, feather boards etc, and u should stand in a manner that is comfortable and lets u feel natural and in control, then u should b fine. I think that standing to far off to the side makes it feel unsafe and unnatural..... Each to their own!

Scenario 1.
My power switch is on the left side of the saw so I don't have to worry about timber in the cut line if I want to shut down quick.

My hands don't go within a foot of the blade.
(get bitten once and you soon lose the 100mm is safe enough mentality)
Sometimes I use 2 pushsticks,
1 for feeding the other to hold timber against the fence
I don't reach past the spinning blade to hold or retrieve timber

I always stand with left foot forward and right foot behind so If I fall over it should be away from the saw.

Bob,

So when you're pushing the stock through the blade, where is the right hand/push stick? on the fence side or the other?

I always use 2 push sticks too, same a Bob, mine are 600mm long.
You should see the nicks in them..
600mm is as close as I want to get to high speed tungsten....

Al :eek:

on the fence side.
Its got a rounded heel and I don't hold it against my palm. If you use a thin straight stick nestled against the heel of your palm a kickback may force the stick into your palm through your skin.

Get a bandsaw lefty, less chance of kickback.

Al

The bloke that agisted his TS with me also lent me a bandsaw. A tiny 7.5 inch ryobi jobbie. Not much good other than cutting up pine shapes for kiddies toys.

I doubt I'll ask it to resaw this Karri I've got lying around.

Bob,

Far be it from me to contradict you, but are you not reaching over the blade as you push the stock through? You're OK with this?

Lefty, Scenario 1 is correct, theirs not much to add. The demo you seen with a bloke pulling it out the back is correct, its called "tailing out" common in cabinet shops. The other thing is ripping. most fences have a secondry fence that can be slid back and foward. when ripping solid timber slide the secondry fence back so it finishes where the blade stops. I prefer it at the center of the blade, others where it finishes, some saw mills like it right at the start, it stops any chance of the timber binding. push stick is a must but not the long plastic crap that comes with a saw, and using 2 at the same time is dangerous:eek: as far as im concerned. and my rule on hand distance from the blade is around 20mm (good for me, but i dont expect others to follow) some have said 100mm - to far away, you lose control to easy. the other issue is blade height and that is a whole thread in its self